When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Couldn't take the brake dust anymore. I broke down and bought new ceramic pads and rotors and some Pentosin Super DOT 4 brake fluid from my local O'Rielly auto parts store.
Front Pads: Powerstop Evolution Ceramic part number 16-1240
Rears are Carquest Wearever Gold from Autozone part number GNAD-1095
Front rotors are StopTech 126.20024SR (right side) and 126.20024SL (left side)
Rear rotors are Raybestos Advanced Tech part number 980-644
I had changed out the rear pads a few thousand miles back and was over joyed by the reduction in brake dust.
Took me about 3.5 hours but got the entire system flushed/bled and all the new rotors and pads installed. I have slotted rotors on my other toy and they work quite well so I thought I'd give them a go on the Jag.
I've only driven 20 miles and it's certainly not broken in yet but initial impressions are I'm going to be more than happy with the braking performance. I know the OEM metallics will probably provide a stronger initial bite but I can't take the dirty wheels 20 minutes after I've washed the car.
You got a whole 20 minutes before surplus brake dust got to your wheels? How'd you get that much. I scrub my wheels clean during my wash, and before I even start the car again, there's brake dust already waiting for me. I learned on my 2002XKR that my silver Double 5's were essentially dark charcoal at the end of a day of driving, so when I got my 2010 XKR, I had the Kalimnos painted gloss black, so that at the end of a day, they look matte black, so that I can skip cleaning them everyday to every other day. It is literally the reason I painted the wheels black, because I didn't think I could stand cleaning both sets of wheels each day. Have fun!
Hey Guys,
For 'dem dusty wheels.......
Thoroughly clean the wheels. Apply a product called "ReJex". It'll coat the wheels with a slippery covering that'll cause much of that brake dust and other road grime to not stick.
I had slotted and drilled rotors on my STR and they warped after a while, couldn't be cut either...cant remember how long though. After that, I went back to smooth rotors. Do you guys think slotted rotors will work well on an XKR? I'm thinking it would be worse with the extra HP, torque, etc?
I had slotted and drilled rotors on my STR and they warped after a while, couldn't be cut either...cant remember how long though. After that, I went back to smooth rotors. Do you guys think slotted rotors will work well on an XKR? I'm thinking it would be worse with the extra HP, torque, etc?
I've had Wilwood slotted rotors on my Celica GT4RC for 30,000 miles. Much more "enthusiastic" driving than my Jag including track days. It weighs 3400lbs so it's no light weight. It will demolish the XKR in the twisty bits. They've worked brilliantly without a problem. Tried drilled once. They didn't last very long before they cracked. Not a fan.
So far so good with the Stoptechs on the XKR. Got them all broken in now. Drove it yesterday and still no brake dust!!!! Hooray!
I am on my second set of slotted and drilled rotors, my mechanic has a friend that custom makes them for about $300 per set (I think he said). As previously stated, you can't cut them, but they have lasted well and have given me no problems. (They also look pretty cool!)
I am on my second set of slotted and drilled rotors, my mechanic has a friend that custom makes them for about $300 per set (I think he said). As previously stated, you can't cut them, but they have lasted well and have given me no problems. (They also look pretty cool!)
I like the look of your front discs, my rears are like your fronts with the holes and slots and soon need replacing with the pads. Will be replacing with the same again but i think i will change the front discs to match as i like the look rather than the flat front discs.
When replacing OEM, I run slotted only. I refuse to use cross drilled rotors unless I want to replace them yearly as a typical race prep cost (they have a nasty tendency to crack at the holes, even when properly camphored.
For typical fronts, I used PowerSlot, which had their own US foundry, and also a cryogenic facility. StopTech/Centrix bought out PowerSlot, initially gaining both high quality rotors and the ability to Cryo them.
Odd to see ST now using Chinese pot metal to pinch a penny. My last ST set was a few years back (US made) and I requested the cryo treatment which adds a week or two to delivery. 2 cents Vince