Drivers window won't go down; lock sticks
#1
Drivers window won't go down; lock sticks
This is for my 2000 XJ8L.
I have two issues that I'm sure are related.
1. Several months ago I noticed the drivers door lock started to stick. It works fine with the FOB and using the center console button - locks and unlocks great. However, opening the door (with the door locked) using the handle from the inside won't work especially on cold days. When I pull the handle all the want back - you can see the lock button try to go up but it won't. Normally you can open the locked door from the inside. If the door is unlocked both inside and outside handles work fine.
2. Last week the drivers side window stopped working. I can roll down all the other windows using the drivers controller. When I attempt to roll down/up I hear a click and what might be a motor sounds (very faint) but nothing happens.
I suspect I may need to replace the entire actuator - thoughts?
thanks
I have two issues that I'm sure are related.
1. Several months ago I noticed the drivers door lock started to stick. It works fine with the FOB and using the center console button - locks and unlocks great. However, opening the door (with the door locked) using the handle from the inside won't work especially on cold days. When I pull the handle all the want back - you can see the lock button try to go up but it won't. Normally you can open the locked door from the inside. If the door is unlocked both inside and outside handles work fine.
2. Last week the drivers side window stopped working. I can roll down all the other windows using the drivers controller. When I attempt to roll down/up I hear a click and what might be a motor sounds (very faint) but nothing happens.
I suspect I may need to replace the entire actuator - thoughts?
thanks
#2
If the lock is working with the button and the fob, it's likely not the actuator. Sounds more like the cable itself, where it goes into the mechanism. Only way to know for sure is pull the door card, but I'd be willing to bet that the end is broken or close, and unable to pull the latch properly. Window... that could be anything. Could be a sticking motor, or anything. I haven't had that problem, and don't know offhand how common it might be or what others have had with that.
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hoober (04-27-2016)
#3
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Finding a detail isn't all that fun, but this is what came up under electrical in the Jag Repair manual....
...yes its the control module, but a hard reset on it may not hurt realign her or see if there is a connection issue. When there is binding it will kick off like a circuit breaker. You'll need to check for any binding anyway, so resetting the module should be done while your there.
How does it work with the cylinder manually? If it binds I would suspect a somewhat simple fix, ...the screw holding the actuator to the cylinder is loose and needs tightening. If it is that, be sure to put some locktite on it or it will do it again....ahem, did I say anything about experience by not doing that myself????
...yes its the control module, but a hard reset on it may not hurt realign her or see if there is a connection issue. When there is binding it will kick off like a circuit breaker. You'll need to check for any binding anyway, so resetting the module should be done while your there.
How does it work with the cylinder manually? If it binds I would suspect a somewhat simple fix, ...the screw holding the actuator to the cylinder is loose and needs tightening. If it is that, be sure to put some locktite on it or it will do it again....ahem, did I say anything about experience by not doing that myself????
Last edited by Highhorse; 04-25-2016 at 09:19 PM.
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hoober (04-27-2016)
#4
Remove the door card and see exactly what is happening before something burns out.
A window motor not moving the window but perhaps operating and/or clicking is not a good sign. It may be intermittent at the moment but something (expensive) will eventually fail completely.
Graham
A window motor not moving the window but perhaps operating and/or clicking is not a good sign. It may be intermittent at the moment but something (expensive) will eventually fail completely.
Graham
Last edited by GGG; 04-26-2016 at 01:52 AM.
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hoober (04-27-2016)
#5
#6
update.
For the window: Pulled off the door panel. Everything looked ok for the window. I tried to get the window to go down with the key (turning forward and holding) - nothing. Decided to pull the fuse and do a rest of the module (rear seat floor board fuse box). Fuse was good - replaced, tested and everything worked fine.
Lock: Pulled the cable and found that the little rubber piece that is around the cable (not sure what it is called) was deteriorated and not allowing the cable to stay attached to the actuator. Damn dealer closed at 1PM so I need to order online or wait till Monday to replace. I had the same problem with the hood release cable. I ended up using hi-temp RTV to keep the cable attached to the lock mechanism. I did that because replacing that cable would have been a pain in the butt.
For the window: Pulled off the door panel. Everything looked ok for the window. I tried to get the window to go down with the key (turning forward and holding) - nothing. Decided to pull the fuse and do a rest of the module (rear seat floor board fuse box). Fuse was good - replaced, tested and everything worked fine.
Lock: Pulled the cable and found that the little rubber piece that is around the cable (not sure what it is called) was deteriorated and not allowing the cable to stay attached to the actuator. Damn dealer closed at 1PM so I need to order online or wait till Monday to replace. I had the same problem with the hood release cable. I ended up using hi-temp RTV to keep the cable attached to the lock mechanism. I did that because replacing that cable would have been a pain in the butt.
#7
Fwiw, only driver window not working (also sunroof reclosing) is typical of a low voltage condition. Do a "hard reset", after a full recharge, remove the negative cable from the battery and hold it in contact with the positive post/cable. Or, there's a fuse you can pull and re-set.
I've got a current drain that saps my battery if the car isn't used every few days. Have had this happen several times.
I've got a current drain that saps my battery if the car isn't used every few days. Have had this happen several times.
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#9
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A hard reset is taking power off of the module, either by disconnecting the power connection at the module or removing the battery cables for about 30 minutes to let any excess power bleed off. The purpose is to clear any "bugs" (ala reset) the module to see if that cures your problem. It is not a guarantee, but does tend to fix most window problems. Its the easiest solution for the initial process to attempt fix the issue. Just like hard booting your cell phone when it gets quirky.