My Jaguar To Do List, and a few questions
#1
My Jaguar To Do List, and a few questions
About a week and a half ago I picked up my new to me 2000 XJR (in the proper colour for a Jag). The car is barely broken in at $126k miles, but it does have a few things that need attending to.
1.) Repaint or replace trunk lid - Status: incomplete
The clear coat has peeled off on the trunk lid, the damage is limited only to the trunk the rest of the paint is fine. I need to either have the trunk repainted or find another x308 trunk in green, depending on cost of repainting or ease of locating another trunk.
2.) Fix 3rd brake light - Status: incompleteThe third brake light is no longer mounted to the back window. Does this just get glued to the glass the same way a rear view mirror is attached to the windshield?
3.) Upgrade stereo - Status: pendingI've already sourced a radio, and a single din radio surround. The only piece I'm missing is the wiring harness adapter but I can't find one listed for the XJR, does one off another Jaguar model work with XJs?
4.) Replace leaper - Status: pendingSome hoodlums stole the leaper of the previous owner. I've already found my replacement leaper from another member here, just have to mount it
5.) Fix steering wheel buttons - Status: incompleteThe cruise control buttons on the steering wheel work, but not the volume ones. Need to figure that out, and them make them work with the aftermarket stereo. Any tips on troubleshooting this one?
6.) Fix power antenna - Status: incompleteAntenna mast was snapped off. I've already got a replacement antenna mast, but it seems the motor is not working. First step is to find out if the motor is getting power, or if the motor itself needs replacing
7.) Fluid change - Status: incompleteI would like to change the engine oil trans fluid, and flush the brakes, that way I know for sure where I am in the service intervals. I just have to find an owners or service manual to check fluid types and capacities.
8.) Intermittent ASC warning light - Status: incompletetrouble shoot and fix ASC warning light, I've read a few things about cleaning and or replacing ABS sensors?
9.) Fix or replace glove box door - Status: incompleteThe handle (lever) to open the glove box is broken off. As a result I can't get into the glove box.
10.) Enjoy a trouble free driving in my Jag Last edited by OUScooby; 07-18-2016 at 09:04 PM.
#3
Hello
I've found this on UK eBay I don't know if it is of use for your stereo. CTSJG001.2 Jaguar XJ8 1998-2003 Car ALPINE Stereo Steering Wheel Interface Kit | eBay
If you want to check the steering wheel controls out you will have to get the airbag off, which is dead easy. There are two torx screws on the back of the wheel you undo to release it. Turn the wheel to the left and undo from ABOVE the cowl then turn 180 to the right and repeat the airbag should now be loose. Carefully withdraw it and put it somewhere safe. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes before playing with the air bag though. You really don't want that firing in your face. Once removed you will be able to see the insides and the switches.
The 3rd brake light coming off is a common issue, people have tried all sorts of glues and not had much joy. Some have even gone so far to remove the light completely. The best thing I've found is an adhesive called "Chemical Metal" which you have to mix with hardener and work fast. Make sure both surfaces are as clean as you can get them and make sure you get it dead centre. I fixed mine 3 years ago and it's stuck fast.
The power antenna is a really easy thing to fix, you'd be better just getting a working one off ebay and fitting it, they really aren't that expensive.
The glovebox is an interesting one, all is not lost though. There are two gold coloured torx screws at just underneath the dash which secures it to fascia. Undo them and you may get enough swing to allow you to slip something thin between the body of the box and the door to pop the catches.
As far as engine oil changes go, these are the easiest cars ever to change the oil on. Jack up the front and secure on stands. Slide underneath the front and look towards the right side of the engine. There is a little plastic cover which is part of a cooling duct secured by a bolt. Undo this and behind it you will find the sump plug and oil filter. To drain the radiator there is a tap on the rear left side of the rad.
Transmission oil on an XJR is different to an XJ8 I think, as it is a Mercedes sourced box, it is worth getting a garage (shop) to do the transmission oil in my opinion.
I hope I've helped answer some of your questions.
Stu.
I've found this on UK eBay I don't know if it is of use for your stereo. CTSJG001.2 Jaguar XJ8 1998-2003 Car ALPINE Stereo Steering Wheel Interface Kit | eBay
If you want to check the steering wheel controls out you will have to get the airbag off, which is dead easy. There are two torx screws on the back of the wheel you undo to release it. Turn the wheel to the left and undo from ABOVE the cowl then turn 180 to the right and repeat the airbag should now be loose. Carefully withdraw it and put it somewhere safe. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes before playing with the air bag though. You really don't want that firing in your face. Once removed you will be able to see the insides and the switches.
The 3rd brake light coming off is a common issue, people have tried all sorts of glues and not had much joy. Some have even gone so far to remove the light completely. The best thing I've found is an adhesive called "Chemical Metal" which you have to mix with hardener and work fast. Make sure both surfaces are as clean as you can get them and make sure you get it dead centre. I fixed mine 3 years ago and it's stuck fast.
The power antenna is a really easy thing to fix, you'd be better just getting a working one off ebay and fitting it, they really aren't that expensive.
The glovebox is an interesting one, all is not lost though. There are two gold coloured torx screws at just underneath the dash which secures it to fascia. Undo them and you may get enough swing to allow you to slip something thin between the body of the box and the door to pop the catches.
As far as engine oil changes go, these are the easiest cars ever to change the oil on. Jack up the front and secure on stands. Slide underneath the front and look towards the right side of the engine. There is a little plastic cover which is part of a cooling duct secured by a bolt. Undo this and behind it you will find the sump plug and oil filter. To drain the radiator there is a tap on the rear left side of the rad.
Transmission oil on an XJR is different to an XJ8 I think, as it is a Mercedes sourced box, it is worth getting a garage (shop) to do the transmission oil in my opinion.
I hope I've helped answer some of your questions.
Stu.
#4
Hello
I've found this on UK eBay I don't know if it is of use for your stereo. CTSJG001.2 Jaguar XJ8 1998-2003 Car ALPINE Stereo Steering Wheel Interface Kit | eBay
If you want to check the steering wheel controls out you will have to get the airbag off, which is dead easy. There are two torx screws on the back of the wheel you undo to release it. Turn the wheel to the left and undo from ABOVE the cowl then turn 180 to the right and repeat the airbag should now be loose. Carefully withdraw it and put it somewhere safe. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes before playing with the air bag though. You really don't want that firing in your face. Once removed you will be able to see the insides and the switches.
I've found this on UK eBay I don't know if it is of use for your stereo. CTSJG001.2 Jaguar XJ8 1998-2003 Car ALPINE Stereo Steering Wheel Interface Kit | eBay
If you want to check the steering wheel controls out you will have to get the airbag off, which is dead easy. There are two torx screws on the back of the wheel you undo to release it. Turn the wheel to the left and undo from ABOVE the cowl then turn 180 to the right and repeat the airbag should now be loose. Carefully withdraw it and put it somewhere safe. MAKE SURE you disconnect the battery and wait at least 10 minutes before playing with the air bag though. You really don't want that firing in your face. Once removed you will be able to see the insides and the switches.
The 3rd brake light coming off is a common issue, people have tried all sorts of glues and not had much joy. Some have even gone so far to remove the light completely. The best thing I've found is an adhesive called "Chemical Metal" which you have to mix with hardener and work fast. Make sure both surfaces are as clean as you can get them and make sure you get it dead centre. I fixed mine 3 years ago and it's stuck fast.
The glovebox is an interesting one, all is not lost though. There are two gold coloured torx screws at just underneath the dash which secures it to fascia. Undo them and you may get enough swing to allow you to slip something thin between the body of the box and the door to pop the catches.
As far as engine oil changes go, these are the easiest cars ever to change the oil on. Jack up the front and secure on stands. Slide underneath the front and look towards the right side of the engine. There is a little plastic cover which is part of a cooling duct secured by a bolt. Undo this and behind it you will find the sump plug and oil filter. To drain the radiator there is a tap on the rear left side of the rad.
Transmission oil on an XJR is different to an XJ8 I think, as it is a Mercedes sourced box, it is worth getting a garage (shop) to do the transmission oil in my opinion.
Transmission oil on an XJR is different to an XJ8 I think, as it is a Mercedes sourced box, it is worth getting a garage (shop) to do the transmission oil in my opinion.
I just need to find the manuals, the stickies here keep linking to the topix website which require a login to see anything.
You have, thanks.
#5
Tranny fluid change on the XJR is fairly easy if you can get the large torx (?) drain bolt out, mine stripped and I had to cut a slot in it to be able to use a large flathead screwdriver and lots of torque to get it out.
There is no tranny "dip stick" on our cars, only a sheath with a red plastic cap that you have to remove to check the level. You will also need a method to measure the fluid level, I used an old choke cable sheath the first time and just put the same amount back in that was there when I drained it. The Mercedes dip sticks are cheap on Ebay now, about $8, might want to get one and make sure you have run thru all the gears and the fluid is up to operating temp when you check the level.
3 drains and replacements over a few days with spirited drives in between made sure I replaced "most" of the fluid. A 12 count case of fluid will do that.
Use the correct fluid! Shell ATF 134 is available thru Ryder Fleet products online, I paid about $5 a quart and you will get about 4 quarts out with a hot drain. You don't have to pay Jag or Merc 5x+ more for the same fluid.
DO NOT LET SOMEONE PUT MERCON OR SOME OTHER TRANNY FLUID IN THE TRANNY, THAT WOULD BE "VERY BAD."
If you need a new drain plug, take the old one to a fastener shop and get a normal bolt with flats that will fit in a socket or wrench, much easier to remove in the future. Replace the copper crush washer too.
You can also drop the pan and replace the filter, Merc kits on Ebay are about $50 or less and include a new pan, gasket and filter. The OEM pan is plastic, BTW, so torque the fasteners (which are fun to get out too!) to spec on reassembly.
Vector
There is no tranny "dip stick" on our cars, only a sheath with a red plastic cap that you have to remove to check the level. You will also need a method to measure the fluid level, I used an old choke cable sheath the first time and just put the same amount back in that was there when I drained it. The Mercedes dip sticks are cheap on Ebay now, about $8, might want to get one and make sure you have run thru all the gears and the fluid is up to operating temp when you check the level.
3 drains and replacements over a few days with spirited drives in between made sure I replaced "most" of the fluid. A 12 count case of fluid will do that.
Use the correct fluid! Shell ATF 134 is available thru Ryder Fleet products online, I paid about $5 a quart and you will get about 4 quarts out with a hot drain. You don't have to pay Jag or Merc 5x+ more for the same fluid.
DO NOT LET SOMEONE PUT MERCON OR SOME OTHER TRANNY FLUID IN THE TRANNY, THAT WOULD BE "VERY BAD."
If you need a new drain plug, take the old one to a fastener shop and get a normal bolt with flats that will fit in a socket or wrench, much easier to remove in the future. Replace the copper crush washer too.
You can also drop the pan and replace the filter, Merc kits on Ebay are about $50 or less and include a new pan, gasket and filter. The OEM pan is plastic, BTW, so torque the fasteners (which are fun to get out too!) to spec on reassembly.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 07-20-2016 at 05:32 PM.
#6
#7
Tranny fluid change on the XJR is fairly easy if you can get the large torx (?) drain bolt out, mine stripped and I had to cut a slot in it to be able to use a large flathead screwdriver and lots of torque to get it out.
There is no tranny "dip stick" on our cars, only a sheath with a red plastic cap that you have to remove to check the level. You will also need a method to measure the fluid level, I used an old choke cable sheath the first time and just put the same amount back in that was there when I drained it. The Mercedes dip sticks are cheap on Ebay now, about $8, might want to get one and make sure you have run thru all the gears and the fluid is up to operating temp when you check the level.
3 drains and replacements over a few days with spirited drives in between made sure I replaced "most" of the fluid. A 12 count case of fluid will do that.
Use the correct fluid! Shell ATF 134 is available thru Ryder Fleet products online, I paid about $5 a quart and you will get about 4 quarts out with a hot drain. You don't have to pay Jag or Merc 5x+ more for the same fluid.
DO NOT LET SOMEONE PUT MERCON OR SOME OTHER TRANNY FLUID IN THE TRANNY, THAT WOULD BE "VERY BAD."
If you need a new drain plug, take the old one to a fastener shop and get a normal bolt with flats that will fit in a socket or wrench, much easier to remove in the future. Replace the copper crush washer too.
You can also drop the pan and replace the filter, Merc kits on Ebay are about $50 or less and include a new pan, gasket and filter. The OEM pan is plastic, BTW, so torque the fasteners (which are fun to get out too!) to spec on reassembly.
Vector
There is no tranny "dip stick" on our cars, only a sheath with a red plastic cap that you have to remove to check the level. You will also need a method to measure the fluid level, I used an old choke cable sheath the first time and just put the same amount back in that was there when I drained it. The Mercedes dip sticks are cheap on Ebay now, about $8, might want to get one and make sure you have run thru all the gears and the fluid is up to operating temp when you check the level.
3 drains and replacements over a few days with spirited drives in between made sure I replaced "most" of the fluid. A 12 count case of fluid will do that.
Use the correct fluid! Shell ATF 134 is available thru Ryder Fleet products online, I paid about $5 a quart and you will get about 4 quarts out with a hot drain. You don't have to pay Jag or Merc 5x+ more for the same fluid.
DO NOT LET SOMEONE PUT MERCON OR SOME OTHER TRANNY FLUID IN THE TRANNY, THAT WOULD BE "VERY BAD."
If you need a new drain plug, take the old one to a fastener shop and get a normal bolt with flats that will fit in a socket or wrench, much easier to remove in the future. Replace the copper crush washer too.
You can also drop the pan and replace the filter, Merc kits on Ebay are about $50 or less and include a new pan, gasket and filter. The OEM pan is plastic, BTW, so torque the fasteners (which are fun to get out too!) to spec on reassembly.
Vector
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#9
Hello, sorry I haven't got back to you I've had a busy and tiring week with work.
Chemical Metal is a strong product that comes in two tubes, the product and the hardener.
I think it would be easier for you to replace the glovebox as a whole unit rather than just the lock, but you won't be able to lock it unless you get a copy of the key for it. I say this because you don't want someone to accidentally lock your box and you not be able to open it. I say this because not a lot of people know this but: ANY JAGUAR X308 KEY WILL LOCK ANY 308 LOCK. This is a feature of tibbe locks, I'm not sure of the reasoning other than a dealer once told me he could lock all the cars on the forecourt with one key. Ford used tibbe locks for many years, but the Jaguar keys have an extra bit on them.
Chemical Metal is a strong product that comes in two tubes, the product and the hardener.
I think it would be easier for you to replace the glovebox as a whole unit rather than just the lock, but you won't be able to lock it unless you get a copy of the key for it. I say this because you don't want someone to accidentally lock your box and you not be able to open it. I say this because not a lot of people know this but: ANY JAGUAR X308 KEY WILL LOCK ANY 308 LOCK. This is a feature of tibbe locks, I'm not sure of the reasoning other than a dealer once told me he could lock all the cars on the forecourt with one key. Ford used tibbe locks for many years, but the Jaguar keys have an extra bit on them.
#10
Hello, sorry I haven't got back to you I've had a busy and tiring week with work.
Chemical Metal is a strong product that comes in two tubes, the product and the hardener.
I think it would be easier for you to replace the glovebox as a whole unit rather than just the lock, but you won't be able to lock it unless you get a copy of the key for it. I say this because you don't want someone to accidentally lock your box and you not be able to open it. I say this because not a lot of people know this but: ANY JAGUAR X308 KEY WILL LOCK ANY 308 LOCK. This is a feature of tibbe locks, I'm not sure of the reasoning other than a dealer once told me he could lock all the cars on the forecourt with one key. Ford used tibbe locks for many years, but the Jaguar keys have an extra bit on them.
Chemical Metal is a strong product that comes in two tubes, the product and the hardener.
I think it would be easier for you to replace the glovebox as a whole unit rather than just the lock, but you won't be able to lock it unless you get a copy of the key for it. I say this because you don't want someone to accidentally lock your box and you not be able to open it. I say this because not a lot of people know this but: ANY JAGUAR X308 KEY WILL LOCK ANY 308 LOCK. This is a feature of tibbe locks, I'm not sure of the reasoning other than a dealer once told me he could lock all the cars on the forecourt with one key. Ford used tibbe locks for many years, but the Jaguar keys have an extra bit on them.
#11
Just lie parallel to the front bumper, head towards the
left side of the vehicle. Reach over and undo sump plug.
I use a low profile drain pan positioned under the sump
plug before undoing it.
The oil filter is accessed from the wheel well.
#12
#13
I imagine there is a company or service somewhere in the USA that will be able to assist you.
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