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it looks great in person. he did an excellent job.
I'm now wanting to change my xjs to LEDs.
I was amazed that they do dim.
As I drove home from Livermore last night in the series 3, I looked at the gauges and thought about what I said earlier in this thread. When I got home, I followed the links above and purchased enough LEDs to light up the gauges at least.
Reading the previous fuel system post would have suggested we were done with it, but unfortunately, we have been experiencing some issues, namely the right hand tank overflowing. Now, based on all the info here and on Jaglovers, etc I would consider myself semi competent on all things fuel switch over on these cars. The only way you can get the right hand tank to overflow is to have the car running from the left hand tank and returning to the right hand tank. If you have been following the fuel discussion, you will remember that this car has 2x 3 way valves, one for feed and one for return. This is different from the later cars which had 3 valves, with 2 of them being 1 way return valves, one per tank. As I couldn't find the 3 way return valve new from any source, I had decided to use the same 3 way feed valve as a substitute for the return. The only obvious difference I could see was the size of the piping, with the feed being 1/2" and the return being 3/8"
After a lot of troubleshooting and brainstorming, (Including replacing both the new feed and return valves with another set of new feed and return valves), I finally decided to try fitting the 2 separate return valves with a t piece, similar to the arrangement in later S2 and S3 cars. The only difference in my set up was I installed these valves in the trunk instead of under the wheel arches. After a lot of fiddling around I finally have this set up working properly.
To be honest I don't fully understand why the 3 way return valve didn't work, but after replacing it twice, I had to get to a working solution somehow. Hopefully this is the end for the fuel system and it continues to behave.
The learning here for anyone else who has this to deal with (I know of at least another 2 XJ12C cars being worked on right now) is that the 3 way feed valve cannot be used for a return valve. And that using the 2 separate valves like a S3 works fine.
Here is the final spaghetti result....... at least it looks shiny.....
After finally (hopefully) finishing the fuel debacle I decided to cheer myself up by doing something that I've done before that usually turns out well...... front foglights. I've fitted front foglights to pretty much every Jaguar I've owned. I know its personal taste, but for me there is something stuck in my memory about the Jaguars I grew up around..... they all had front foglights.
This job is made a lot easier by the fact that these cars come pre-wired and switched for front fogs.
Preparing the switch : Many thanks to fellow forum member JigJag for the info on how to remove the switch knob so you can remove the little circlip. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...es-2-a-163303/ Once this circlip is removed you can depress the switch in and turn it to the final position, which activates the front fogs
Finding the fog lights : I found a set on ebay. They do come up from time to time. I paid $100 for a nice pair of Hellas with chrome backs.
Fitting the fog lights to the front bumper/fender : This is where things got a bit more interesting. As far as I could see there were no predrilled holes for the front fogs on my US spec S2 car. I had a look at taking the bumper off, but the bolts holding the end of the bumper to the front wings were in a real mess and resisted all attempts to remove them. I also looked at using the front impact absorber bolt, which juts out from the bottom of the bumper, but although I got one side off, the other side had the shaft turning as well and its not possible to get to the top of these bolts because they are enclosed in the bumper box section. So..... I needed a way to fix a bracket onto the underside of the bumper box section while not having access to the top side of any fixture I put in. I decided to drill and tap holes in the bottom of the box section. I made a pilot hole and found the box section walls to be around 1/8" thick. I thought this would be enough to get 2 or 3 threads in to if I used fine thread bolts. I wanted to test the strength of the thread idea first, so I drilled and tapped a sacrificial hole to 3/8" 24 thread. I then put in a suitable bolt and tightened it. Using a torque wrench I got to 100ft. lbs before I stripped the threads so I concluded 2 of these bolts would be sufficient to hold the foglight and bracket on.
Here is how it looks attached to the bottom of the box section.....
Here is how it looks with the foglight bolted to it........
Wiring is easy. I wired the 2 fogs together and brought both the power and the ground wires up into the engine bay. The power wire is tucked up on the left hand side of the radiator. It's red with a yellow stripe. This is what mine looked like, with the wire doubled over and taped up with black tape......
You can use any suitable clean screw or bolt for the earth.
I put the fogs quite close in because I like the look of the European cars with fogs. This is again, personal taste.
The finished product...... hopefully gives a sense that they've always been there
Best thread I have read in a long time. Thank you for taking the time to post so many great photos. You did a great job...[with beer mugs held up-clink. clink..] Gladiator we salute you!
How did you get your wipers to park on the driver's side. Did it come like that or did you rework your wiper motor to change the park position. I am going to re-read all of your post just in case I missed it.
What a great job you did documenting your work with all of the pics in your posts.
Me, I remember after the fact that I should have taken pics. I only take pics to remember how something was, before I dismantle it.
Now, let me re-read your posts.
Thats how it came. The only thing I've done wiper related is change from horrible plastic blades to nice metal backed ones. Amazingly the wipers work correctly, including park
The 12C managed a staggering 240 miles yesterday in Nor Cal summer heat (80~90F)
It was great to get approval from other forum members that myself and @smgdata have done a reasonable job on the restoration so far.
Being able to do a summer run with the car was one of the project goals when we got the car in Dec 2015, so we can tick this one off the list.
We still have a lot to do....... the A/C works really well, when it works....... we either have an issue with the switch or the relay or "something"
I was also not happy with the temps so that will need more work. I like the twin electric fan set up as I have on my XJS, and after seeing @Rhetts system on his XJ-S, I think the 12C will be going this route also, along with a Wizard rad. Then we will be done with that.
Plus some video shot from @smgdatas XJR support vehicle that shadowed us all the way there and back. This is a VERY bumpy part of I680 and the conclusion is we have the suspension just about right.......
it was a great run. the car looks so majestic on the road. as that video shows.
it's been great getting to know the car and rebuilding everything and tweaking things with everybody's help on here. sarc and I have had a great time blood sweat and all.
This weekend was fun with Delanaire Climate Control. As posted previously, we had some issues on the BAJrs run where the A/C would not turn on reliably.
We asked and the Gods answered. Full story here on this thread.
Short summary...... a $2 microswitch brought the whole system to a grinding halt. "easy" to fix, if you know what you're looking for AND you have half the car apart.
That might be the reason the PO told me to put it on AUTO and leave it there! I have followed his advice and had no trouble such as you described.
(';')
That might be the reason the PO told me to put it on AUTO and leave it there! I have followed his advice and had no trouble such as you described.
(';')
Yes, that would be good advice if your switches were on their way out. The microswitch that powers up the fans and the A/C comp is "depressed" when you move the knob from OFF to LOW. After that it doesn't change states, ie it stays "depressed" for every other setting, including DEF. Thats why we could sometimes get it to fire up by toggling between OFF and LOW, but eventually even that didn't work. I still have the car in pieces so will take some photos or video of the various components and post them as its pretty interesting to see how it all works.
07-04-2016 | 02:55 PM
