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I recently purchased a 2012 XKR. My battery died while the vehicle was locked and I realized my emergency key was not cut. (it sat for about 72 hrs) After finding out the only way to get a key was to pay $300+ and wait 3 to 4 weeks, I decided to have a locksmith open the car so I could jump it.
The locksmith used a airbag to create enough space between the window to get his tool in there and pull the handle. He then used the tool to pull the emergency release for the trunk.
I ended up changing the battery. However, when I connected the new battery the alarm went off and the key fob would not work. As a matter of fact, nothing worked anymore except the lights. I ended up having to have the car towed the the dealer and even the manual release to put the car in neutral did nothing.
Now the car has been at the dealer nearly two weeks. I was told that the cars security engaged but they couldn't figure out how to unlock it. The dealer had to call Jag to get the protocol to unlock or "jailbreak" the system and it was going to cost me $600.00 to try and it only works sometimes.
Of course, it didn't work. They are now telling me they have to replace the auxiliary junction box, instrument cluster, and program 2 new keys for the low low cost of $5100.00.
I apparently have a CPO warranty on the vehicle that I was unaware of and I purchase an exclusionary warranty when I purchased the car. However, the service person at the dealership said it won't be covered because there was no fault and nothing broke. He's stating the car is designed that way.
I'm having a really hard time understanding how a car is designed to "lockdown" into an immovable paper weight with no way to unlock it. (Well they have a way that only works sometimes.) It would appear to me that if you have to replace parts, it's because they failed. Has anyone heard of this before? Because if that's how the security system works, I'd rather have my car stolen, pay a deductible and buy another one, than shell out $5100.00 to "turn it back on".
Unfortunately that is the only Jaguar dealer around. It's funny you say external jump point, because when I asked if I had any way to get into the car without an emergency key they said no.
I don't know what the solution is for you, but I am not aware of any external jump terminals in this car. There are Remote Jump Terminals in the trunk, but you still have to open the trunk to get to them just like getting to the battery. They are simply a convenient way to jump without having to dig out the battery. Here is the diagram of the battery system.
Damn that sucks. I assume you're going to Park Place in Plano? I just bought my XK there last month and am wondering where I will get service/repairs done when necessary since they are moving to Grape Vine.... So I'm looking for a capable indie in the area. I googled a few but haven't done any due diligence yet. You might want to call an indie for a second opinion. $5500 is absolutely insane.
Sorry to hear what you are going through. So the key fob does not work and what about the emergency key? Did you ever get it? What exactly is "lock down" and how does it happen?
Last edited by michaelodonnell123; 09-15-2016 at 10:41 AM.
I don't know what the solution is for you, but I am not aware of any external jump terminals in this car. There are Remote Jump Terminals in the trunk, but you still have to open the trunk to get to them just like getting to the battery. They are simply a convenient way to jump without having to dig out the battery. Here is the diagram of the battery system.
I can't say about the 2012, but on my 2007, that 'remote jump point' (item #4), extends through the body, and is covered by a rubber boot underneath the car, behind the left rear wheel. So while it was intended for access in the trunk, in a dead battery situation (like this), you can also access it under the car.
Yes it's at Park Place at Plano. I used to take my 07 to Dallas European Auto which is just down the road but since I thought it would be a programming thing, I had it towed to the dealer. I'm just uncomfortable with the fact I'm basically being told the car has parts that are designed to self destruct to never be used again if the alarm is triggered. Lol
I plan on reaching out to get several opinions. I'm over 9 car dealerships so I'm pretty sure I can find a tech or vendor who had some knowledge in this, because it just sounds absurd.
I can't say about the 2012, but on my 2007, that 'remote jump point' (item #4), extends through the body, and is covered by a rubber boot underneath the car, behind the left rear wheel. So while it was intended for access in the trunk, in a dead battery situation (like this), you can also access it under the car.
I will have to take a look underneath when I get back home tomorrow
Found this post where the guy says he pulled and replaced every fuse, and it got him out of lockdown : Lockdown mode help
Also, what is the red security led on top of the dashboard doing? There are some references to it blinking or being solid... it actually may be blinking an error code :
From the 2010 Workshop Manual
Anti-theft - Passive
The best method to confirm the correct operation of the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is to check the LED (located
in the center of the instrument panel). The LED should illuminate solid for 3 seconds, when the ignition status is set to
ON, and then extinguish. This validates all PATS functions (i.e. the key transponder matches a stored key code, the
challenge/response sequence between the respective modules was successful resulting in the EMS being enabled).
Ignition fails to operate
Check that the smart key is located within the vehicle interior, and that it is the correct one for the vehicle. Insert the
smart key into the start control unit (located in floor console cubby box), this is an alternative method to allow Ignition
On/Engine Start.
Check that the start button circuit to the CJB is not open circuit or short circuit to power.
Check that the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. open circuit or short circuit. This would mean that the remote
keyless entry module, Central Junction Box (CJB) and instrument cluster would be unable to communicate.
Engine fails to crank
If a PATS fault is detected, the LED will flash for 60 seconds at 4Hz with a 50% duty cycle. At the end of this period, the
LED will flash a 2 digit code; this code is repeated 10 times. The meaning of these fault codes along with the frequency
of flashing is given in the accompanying table. As a general rule a fault code of 16 or less will cause the vehicle not to
crank. Additionally, the manufacturer approved diagnostic system should be used to check the instrument cluster, CJB
& ECM for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
One potential occurrence for failing to crank could be due to the 'Not In Park' switch (input to the CJB) or the P & N
start switch (input to the ECM).
Check the Crank Request output from the CJB to ECM is not short circuit to ground or open circuit.
Check the Starter Relay circuit.
NOTE: Due to Smart Start both sides of Relay Coil are switched directly from ECM (If conditions correct)
Check that the Steering Column Lock correctly operates and the steering wheel can turn freely.
Check that the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. the CAN circuit is open or short circuit. This would mean that the
instrument cluster and ECM would be unable to communicate resulting in no Challenge being performed to enable the
ECM. This would be supported by LED Flash Code 24, see PATS Fault Code Table.
Also check the CAN network between the ABS module and the CJB. The CJB uses the CAN_BrakePressureTMC signal to
determine if the brake pedal has been pressed in order to allow an engine crank. The CJB uses a value of 0x03, if the
CJB sees a value less than this, it will not enable the Crank Request Output.
Jaguar Dallas
Jaguar Plano
Autobahn Motor Cars (Ft. Worth)
I knew about jaguar dallas, but it's the same company. I never knew about autobahn in FT worth though. As many times as I've Internet searched I would have thought that would have came up at some point. Thanks
I can't say about the 2012, but on my 2007, that 'remote jump point' (item #4), extends through the body, and is covered by a rubber boot underneath the car, behind the left rear wheel. So while it was intended for access in the trunk, in a dead battery situation (like this), you can also access it under the car.
KJ, thanks for the heads up on this connection. In all that I have read no one ever brought this up. You are correct, on my 2012 the battery connector is on both sides of the trunk, inside and underneath. It is easily accessible, I stuck my head under the rear bumper behind the fender and sure enough there it is, it even a label on it that says Battery Starter.
This is GREAT info to have, not to mention an excellent place to put a quick connect cord for a maintainer if you are so inclined.
KJ, thanks for the heads up on this connection. In all that I have read no one ever brought this up. You are correct, on my 2012 the battery connector is on both sides of the trunk, inside and underneath. It is easily accessible, I stuck my head under the rear bumper behind the fender and sure enough there it is, it even a label on it that says Battery Starter.
This is GREAT info to have, not to mention an excellent place to put a quick connect cord for a maintainer if you are so inclined.
Credit really goes to Steve 'WhiteXKR' for this I believe, as I think he was the one who mentioned it in some thread on this forum. It's just one of those pieces of information you have to file away in the back of your brain for a 'rainy day' (or dead battery day, in this case).
Hi CM, just because they are owned by the same holding company, (Sonic, Hendricks, etc.) doesn't' mean they talk to each other. Might be worthwhile to give the Jaguar Dallas shop a call. I found Autobahn Motorcars listed in the Jaguar USA dealer look up.
09-15-2016, 12:49 AM
2012 XKR Security System "Lock Down" help
