When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OB,
I am a bit confused. Are you saying that the bronze piece you are pulling off is too small to go onto the new motor? If so, just get it on someone's lathe and get it bored out.
It looks like there is no Woodruff keyway on the new motor's driveshaft. Is this correct? If so, that is the biggest problem you face, namely how to ensure the fitting does not slip on the driveshaft. The absolute best way would be to take the motor apart and have the shaft slotted in a milling machine. The bodger's way (never done it, just an idea ready to be shot down) would be to file a flat onto the shaft, mig on a "hump", and see if you can make the fitting's slot catch sufficiently (with a bit of trial and error, building up and filing/grinding). A bit at a time so you do not get the shaft too hot etc etc.
Greg
Greg
What is OD of the flange behind the coupling, my concern in boring would be making this too thin. Also here in Australia I can buy a 240V 1hp motor for $130 having a shop bore the coupling might end up being almost as much as buying a motor with a 16mm shaft. 16mm is a pretty standard shaft size for small machinery, Lathe, Mill etc.
My Lathe is belt drive with a keyway on the motor shaft and NO keyway in the pulley. a setscrew holds the pulley and is screwed into the keyway on the motor.
Looking at the photos of both parts of the fitting, it doesn't seem as if even the original 16mm shaft can go past the beginning of the triangles, so you can't drill the 20mm hole past that point anyway. So perhaps that's the easiest quickest solution as you'll still have over 3mm of brass on the fitting all around the new 20mm shaft?
The Hole is 15.64 across
The Collar is 26.58 across
The Coupling is 44.50 across
Ah Yes!
Well done Paul!
As I was thinking the drill had to go right through the Whole assembly but now I see that isn't so.
The Drill only needs to go through the Collar of the fitting and no more than that, which doesn't chop any metal off the Brass Triangles, so as you say I would have quite a lot of Metal to play with.
It looks like you have nailed it, so that's the way to go!
The Hole is 15.73 across
The Collar is 26.74 across
The Coupling is 45mm across
The Drive End of the Coupling
Side View of the Coupling
Side View of the Coupling
Last edited by orangeblossom; 11-01-2016 at 04:14 PM.
Are the two motor shafts the same length? I only ask as, assuming you get the fitting on the shaft but only so far (following Paul's canny observation), will fixing the hydraulic pump to wherever the fitting end up, be a problem?
Greg
Drilling the fitting in a drill press you will end up with the hole either concentric or off centre. Also in my experience unless you buy good quality, (read expensive) drill bits they are almost always a few thou larger so the hole will be a sloppy fit on the shaft, and this will lead to failure.
A boring bit in the drill press would be a better bet. These are adjustable and you bore the hole in small increments. If not you could use drills up to 25/64 and then a 20mm reamer for the final finish.
OB, like Warren said, a drill press, while good, is just not stable enough to guarantee a good true bore even if you use a good press vise. Surely it would not be that expensive to have a machine shop bore it out to 20mm. If so just let me know when you can be here for dinner, we'll throw some steaks on the grill and some beverages in the cooler and you can use my lathe.
Al looking at those motors side by side the original motor (blue) is a lot larger than the new on. What is the power and RPM on the old motor? Does the motor run?
That sure is an interesting "dog" drive. The fact that it is brass does
lend it to easier machining. But, "soft" enough to bore accurately in drill press? Perhaps, but would sure be a shame to ruin the part.
My vote would be to take the part and the "new" motor to a machine shop. The school shop is indeed a great possibility. Easily done there with an end mill or lathe. Even if school machines are usually old and a bit sloppy.
I'll bet any machine shop around here would want a lot more than 25, either pounds or dollars!!
?'s:
1. Howe do you plan to mate the "'new" motor to the pump housing. The faces of the "new" vs "old" motors seem much different!!
2. As to capacity, an undersized motor at over load might run slower, it will do so only for a while. It will join the "old" one.
I would be tempted to have another look at the "old" motor with a view of fixing it. Armature, fields insulation.. Or merely the capacitor!
But, I admire the effort to restore the lift to service.