After reading about the various experiences of other board members regarding replacement of the "low energy" factory dash lighting with LEDs I ask myself ,...so what is the final recipe to follow, if I should decide to buy and install them? What type... what numbers??

As I understand,..there are various ways to achieve the lighting level and brightness, tint ...etc. desired by the individual owner, but is there not a general consensus.. ?

My thinking is,.. if there were a tried and proven list of LED bulbs that "most" people have settled on, somewhere on this site, it would be most helpful.

In fact, it would be nice to also have a "recipe sheet" for those attempting to do a V8 conversion. Things like which motor mounts work best with which manifolds,down pipes,..how far from bell housing to engine block joint to the fire wall is best distance to clear everything, what length of driveshaft with what trans is the ideal length. Best radiator, best A/C setup... Things like that would be helpful to all with the same interests. At this point a person has to search the site to glean the info required and then hope the "rest all fits" after making a decision..

Back to lighting...

Personally I would like to change all the lighting to LEDs, including tail lights and door (puddle) lights , parking / directional lights etc.

 

Alyn

I have changed out most of my lights to LEDS and some back to normal lights due to the change being not pleasant. The interior gauges lend themselves to better and brighter lights, the turn signals and license plate lights as well. I have Halogen seven inch headlights with high and low beams plus soon Cibie driving lights.

The interior lights do not work for me in LED's... the normal light bulbs are the softer/better... but they do burn/harden the plastic lenses and the light sockets over time... choice is so personal.

To create this list list of "desired" bulbs would be like electing our president.. less than fifty percent might agree on the proper/best lighting choice. Bulb numbers that fit would a good start...

 

Oh, yeah, what is best so violently demonstrated in our Prez selection.


Not here, I am sure, but concensus not likely.


Same comment as to lighting of swap routes.


Tis truly ala carte in either case.


Carl

 

I tried LED festoon replacements for the Pillar lights, they weren't really bright enough, being only 3 segments,

but they were also too blue and made the interior look Really Sick.

So I painted half of the incandescents with chrome paint,


being careful to mask the ends also.

The result is that half the light isn't wasted in the pillar, and the cabin is Much brighter. Of course one must have it aimed correctly for this to work.

To keep the lights from burning fixtures and lenses again like they were when I got the car I installed Jose's mod for turning off the door switches.


I put these on all 4 doors. Now I can have any door open for Hours and not worry about frying pillar fixtures of lenses.
(';')

 

Hi All
LnrB I remember those painted nails now (lol) and the info about using a spray paint to "doctor" the amount of light. I think that is what I will do - experiment with different colors of paint in order to find the right amount of brightness, tint and hue that the LED will cast. Thanks for that tip.
As well being there is not much heat coming from these lights,..maybe wiping some wood stain would tamp down the brightness just the right amount / type of light (for me) So I guess its a custom thing depending on how you see light and what makes you happy.

 

As I live out here in the Stix with little street lighting (none) and I have to back Nix out of the garage around a DARK corner, I wanted Reverse lights that allowed me to see Exactly what I was about to back into. What came with the car was Inadequate to say the very least.
I found these 72 element 1156 replacements online; 1400 Lumens!
I wasted no time getting 2 pair.

They protrude Just enough from the fixtures to illuminate the corner I'm backing around, but are also bright enough that in full daylight it's Obvious I have the car in Reverse and I'm coming out.



I tested these in daylight (flashed them briefly), and husband said he could plainly see them even a mile behind me. They're almost like having headlights behind. I'm Very pleased with them!

I also wanted Brake Lights people could actually see but didn't blind those behind me at a stop light. On a recent Club trip I followed a member driving a 2001 Xk8, the brake lights of which were Invisible in normal daylight! In fact, we thought he didn't have any until conditions were just right they could finally be seen. I did Not want brake lights like that!!

I found these at O'Reilly's:

Again, 1156 replacement base; 15 segments.

You can see in the picture above they don't protrude beyond the fixture at all, but still they're enormously brighter than stock.

I've left standard incandescents in the remaining 2 lights. As they burn out I'll replace them with LEDs of appropriate Lumens.
(';')

 

LnrB
Perfect ! That is the kind of info I was looking for.
Thanks much. Trying not to do all the trial and error /research all over again.

I am going to make a list of all the numbers and locations where they will live. Perhaps with a comments section - who provided the initial info and remarks.. Will make them available to whom so ever wants a copy.

In the compiling stage at the moment.

Thanks again LnrB This will probably take a bit of time to gather the info... but you gotta start somewhere...

 

I like the idea of mirroring the light in the pillars. Foil might work
at the risk of bridging the contacts, not good!!!


Elinor: Why two switches on the door posts??? My car has one per door.
Inoperative now??? I messed up something.... And the driver's switch
was just plumb wore out.


Or paint the inside of the lamp housing in a reflective color.
brilliant white might be comparable.


I do like the idea of better lighting astern...


Carl

 

I thought of foil, Carl, for about half a second, until the probability of a dead short in that circuit occurred to me. Then I thought of mounting small mirrors behind the festoons but that would only deal with a small portion of light uselessly wasted into the pillar. So Chrome paint on the bulb it was.

If you notice, the metallic paint is Well away from the contact ends. It's a bit tedious taping them up, but So many small tasks that make Huge differences fall into that catagory.

I think the other switch was added at the time the Viper was installed. Or, it may have to do with the center warning system; oil, water, seat belts, etc. I took the bundle off the warning module that sits behind the glove box early on because it wouldn't SHUT UP even when all systems were fine. I haven't missed it one bit either!

I don't have a "housing" behind that light, only a Black Hole inside the B-pillar.
Me Too!!
(';')

 

LnrB:


Back to half seconds and foil. The idea festered in my brain. Why?
No rational reason. I've tons of other stuff going on. At least neither
of the cars is amongst the list top.


I must plead guilty to bodges way back. Many decades ago.


Fuse blown, the glass type, way out in the boonies. Wrap it in foil.
It actually worked and usually with no burnt out wires!!!


So, if you glued on a half wrap it would not be a short, unless it contacted chassis steel. But, if it was not wrapped short of the bulb ends, a bridge, no light at all.


All in all, your chrome paint is a far better idea.


Carl.

 

Easier too!
(';')