XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

Replacing an alternator in X358 SuperV8

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Old 01-14-2017 | 12:38 PM
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Default Replacing an alternator in X358 SuperV8

Can anyone help with docs or know-how in tackling a re-and re- of the alternator in X358 SuperV8? Been searching the forum but can't really find anything much on this...
Thanks in advance for any advice/instructions.
 
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Old 01-14-2017 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by RoonieQ
Can anyone help with docs or know-how in tackling a re-and re- of the alternator in X358 SuperV8? Been searching the forum but can't really find anything much on this...
Thanks in advance for any advice/instructions.
Hi RoonieQ,

The X350 'HOW TO' quick links thread near the top of the home page of this X350 forum has a lot of helpful links. For example, you can download the Workshop Manual in six sections at these links:

X350 Workshop Manual Table of Contents
X350 Workshop Manual General Information
X350 Workshop Manual Chassis
X350 Workshop Manual Powertrain
X350 Workshop Manual Electrical
X350 Workshop Manual Body & Paint

The alternator replacement procedure is in the Powertrain section and note that Jaguar refers to it as the "generator." You can search for this term using the Adobe Acrobat Reader search function, which you open by pressing Ctrl+F or Cmd+F.

Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; 01-14-2017 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 01-14-2017 | 01:03 PM
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Thanks for doc references and the alternate search term Don B.

Anyone tackle this themselves?
 
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Old 01-14-2017 | 04:27 PM
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Is RoonieQ in the right forum ? The photo is of an X351 the current model, and also stated in signature as a 2011. X350/358 is 2003-2009
 
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Old 01-15-2017 | 08:42 AM
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Yes I am thanks. I'm interested in the X358 SuperV8 alternator replacement as indicated.
 
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Old 01-17-2017 | 07:02 AM
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I replaced my alternator in a 2005 XJ8L about three months ago. I followed the instructions in the service manual and all went well. The only issue was getting a beam strong enough and anchor points sturdy enough on top of the strut perches to hold the engine while the right engine mount was taken out. Once I got the engine supported properly it was just following instructions and very straight forward.
 
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Old 01-21-2017 | 09:21 AM
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Thanks NDW. What exactly did you end up using for the beam and anchor points? I guess pics are not a possiblity

Any procedural surprises or tips you can share?
 
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Old 01-22-2017 | 08:47 AM
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@RoonieQ: I used 2x4 pieces of wood cut to size with slots in them to fit on top of the strut perches. Then I put a brace on each side going forward to the front of the car to keep the support from rolling forward.

I lifted the engine by putting a floor jack on the sides of the oil pan and lifting slowly. The chain was attached using a bolt to the engine lifting slots on top of the block. The metal cross bar was very thick and strong, the first one bent too much and I had to find a stronger one.

The most challenging part was making the brace to hold the engine, other than that there wasn't any surprises. The service manual was spot on in the way to replace the alternator. Hope this helps.

Newt
 
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Old 01-22-2017 | 09:40 AM
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Those details are very helpful. Really appreciate it @NDW. Thank you!
 
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Old 01-22-2017 | 12:28 PM
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Default This is what I own for engine support

$70 US at harbor freight.

1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
 
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Old 01-22-2017 | 07:18 PM
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I have the same inexpensive Harbor Freight engine support bar as Sean. Below is a photo of it in action on our '93. The yellow web engine sling was about $10, also from HF:




Cheers,

Don
 

Last edited by Don B; 01-22-2017 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 01-24-2017 | 05:15 PM
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I was unaware of the sling Don. I've used the chains and bolted to the block. Does the sling go under the oil pan, and if so, no risk to mis-shaping the pan?
 
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Old 01-24-2017 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean W
I was unaware of the sling Don. I've used the chains and bolted to the block. Does the sling go under the oil pan, and if so, no risk to mis-shaping the pan?
On our '93 I ran it under the cast aluminum sump and supplemented the support bar and sling with a jack and wood blocks for added safety, with no deformation whatsoever of the sump:



On an engine with a plastic sump you might want to position the sling ahead of or behind the pan or use the chains in the traditional method.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 12-30-2018 | 11:39 PM
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Thanks to you guys, I was able to do this. I had my alternator fail on me a couple of weeks ago; so after calling the dealership for giggles pretty much to see what they’d quote me, I figured I’d try what others here did, raising the engine a bit from the bottom & getting the alternator out.

I had a couple of guys help that wanted to do it; I more so did all the WATCH work! Haha

We removed the Coolant reservoir & hoses, then the radiator fan & harnesses; then the serpentine belt, which had been on there since I got the car 4.5 years ago & much longer than that, all the the shroud from the under body, the right wheel & the wheel well; we were then able to get to th alternator from the front & back underside; we removed the motor mount, stuck a low profile jack under the oil pan & gave her a lift.

We were then able to get to the bolts to the alternator & slide it out towards the front where the gap was via the removed fan...

As for the alternator, I found 1 from a reputable & trust worthy seller on eBay that I’ve purchased from before; it was off of a wreck 2007 XJ8L with only 40,000 miles on it; I paid a mere $59 for the OEM barely (to me) used Alternator! The Serpetine belt was $29; Labor was $12.02 via Pizza

I did have to replace my battery, but that was still under warranty & I had to by coolant, & get that dialed in which took a couple of hours.

Oh yeah, the dealership,,,,,,,,,,,$1380 is what they quoted me for the Alternator & labor. Another specialty shop here quoted me $1,000, so I think I did pretty good!..
 

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