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Looks like my clutch master is on its way out. The correct (and very expensive) part, #CCC6760, is no longer available from Jaguar. This is also supposed to be compatible with the later XJ40s; there are two other XJ40 clutch masters for earlier years. The earliest one (CAC6727) looks like it wouldn't fit anyway given the orientation of the fluid reservoir, and the middle variant (CBC7284) looks similar to the correct version but isn't specifically listed as being compatible with the late XJ40s. Looks like some folks on this forum have tried XJ40 clutch masters with some success; is CBC7284 the correct part number that you used?
Haven't replaced it yet. However, I've found something interesting:
Part # CCC6760 is the correct part for our cars, and is no longer available. Part # CBC8825, also not available, was replaced by CCC6760.
However: Part # CBC7284, currently available from David Manners in the UK, looks exactly the same as CBC8825 and in fact is referenced using the exact same picture. I've just placed an order for CBC7284 and will post back with the result.
A year ago I bought a clutch master cylinder for my XJR at a UK on-line store called "partsinmotion" - the item was listed as an FTE product with parts No. KG190037.0.3 (bore diameter 19.05mm) which claimed to match Jaguar X40 and X300, and as substitutes for CCC6760, CBC8825, 8607 and S8607. It fits and works fine on my XJR. Here is a picture of the actual item. It was listed at GBP202 (ouch!).
However, I searched its site again just now and it is no longer available. Here is another item made by Textar, which is being offered by BuyCarpartsco.uk, priced at GBP252(!!!). http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/clutch-...r/xj-x300/4007
Anyway, I have heard that the clutch master cylinder rebuild seal kit for XJS might work on the X300. However, I think as the ownership of manual X300 continue to drop it would e best to grab a brand new clutch master cylinder when new ones are still available.
If indeed available and priced at GBP162 that would be good value. Can't understand why they don't ship abroad when the buyer is readily willing to pay for shipment. The shipping cost from the UK to Hong Kong last time was about GBP22, and it arrived within a few days. Wish you got a good quote from David Manners.
That XJ40 part from David Manners came out to just GBP116 plus shipping, which is still cheaper than even that part (which is incidentally in Euros and includes VAT so it could come close). Anyway, time will tell.
The hydraulic hose needed a bit of bending, and the reservoir is at a slightly different angle, but it works the clutch and I can feel the smoothness over the old one with the broken-down seals.
The hydraulic hose needed a bit of bending, and the reservoir is at a slightly different angle, but it works the clutch and I can feel the smoothness over the old one with the broken-down seals.
Good to know the XJ40 part works. I shall be ordering one this week. My car is a RHD 3.2 (yes, I know, weird for USA, but it's ex UK).
What I am struggling with is how in the heck to get the clevis pin back in along with the return spring? Who was the nimrod that conceived that design?
I have the seat removed, the under scuttle pad and some piece of ductwork which gives a reasonable view but still very hard to reach. I am thinking the pedal box is going to need to come out and of course the service manual is totally devoid of details on how to do that!
I love my X300, it only has 144k albeit is a bit rusty being a 'coastal' car. Came from Kent so much like cars from FL keys.
Any suggestions are welcome. I almost think it was easier to replace the engine in my XK8 coupe than do this job!
Thanks, Brad
Last edited by Verofan; 12-19-2021 at 01:40 PM.
Reason: typo
Good to know the XJ40 part works. I shall be ordering one this week. My car is a RHD 3.2 (yes, I know, weird for USA, but it's ex UK).
What I am struggling with is how in the heck to get the clevis pin back in along with the return spring? Who was the nimrod that conceived that design?
I have the seat removed, the under scuttle pad and some piece of ductwork which gives a reasonable view but still very hard to reach. I am thinking the pedal box is going to need to come out and of course the service manual is totally devoid of details on how to do that!
I love my X300, it only has 144k albeit is a bit rusty being a 'coastal' car. Came from Kent so much like cars from FL keys.
Any suggestions are welcome. I almost think it was easier to replace the engine in my XK8 coupe than do this job!
Thanks, Brad
I did the same job as you, and I would also be interested in knowing a better way!
The way I did it was to remove the pedal box (there are 10mm nuts that are accessed from under the scuttle. I had to remove the heater pump (located beside the pedal box under the hood). But mine is a LHD so you might not have to move the heater pump (I had to unbolt it so that I could take out the pedal housing)
The photographs in this thread are also interesting: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-issue-239129/
Whilst I wait for parts I am going to see if I can back that adjuster the red arrows are pointing to out all the way as it looks as if that could be a game changer?
Yes, the heater pump is on the LH side I believe regardless of drive side. Fixing to go out to the shop shortly so will check.
The adjuster does back out all the way. I had to remove the gas pedal to remove/install the pedal housing (it’s not necessary but makes it easier)
My situation was different from yours, in that I had already removed the pedal box, so I can’t say for sure if backing out the adjuster will help or not…
I was successful in getting the adjuster backed out. However, it is still near impossible to get the clevis pin back in and hold the spring in the right spot.
What I am wondering is if it would be better to remove the blower motor? That does not look easy either but would provide extra access between the brake & clutch pedals?
Confirmed. The XJ40 part fits the RHD X300 just fine too.
I was able to get the spring & clevis pin back in without resorting to removing the blower or pedal box. I think the trick ultimately (aside from backing the adjuster off) turned out to be sitting the spring in place and using long needle nose pliers to get the clevis pin started. Repeated attempts try to reach up there by hand simply knocked the spring down. My hands aren't the largest, nor the smallest. The same long pliers also worked superbly for getting the E clip back on.
I still don't have great pedal feel though after using my Motive products bleeder. Tons of fluid pouring out the slave bleed screw. I must admit that I bench bled the new cylinder in situ by leaving the line loose so my thinking is that the slave is sticking too perhaps?
Hard to say which is faulty but I think it wise to go ahead & replace the slave too? There are no signs of leaks from it but the old fluid was black.