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I have been trying to track-down the source/cause of some slight "play" in the steering - about 1/4" to 3/8" to left and right before the steering responds to the hand wheel. I have been able to rule-out bearings, bushings, and ball joints. There is a very small amount of play in each outer tie rod (track rod end), but it does not seem easily enough produced, or sufficient to account for the problem. I checked the steering shaft U-joint and it has no play at all. I found enough movement, easily produced, where the spline on the steering rack that attaches to the steering shaft (column) enters the top of the rack. I can feel the entire steering shaft move - all the way up to the steering wheel, and can feel it bump against the locks on both sides when the steering wheel is locked down. Again, it is a small amount of movement, but noticeable to an OCD "hack" mechanic like me. I have provided two pictures indicating where the play can be produced. Is a small amount of looseness in the top spline gear normal? I did not check to see if it tightens-up when the hydraulics are under pressure. If this proves to be my problem, are there sub-assembly kits available to rebuild this part of the rack, or am I stuck buying a new or completely rebuilt rack? Is there a way to tighten this looseness without new parts? The connection of the steering shaft to the rack spline is quite tight. The play feels like it is occurring in the top spline portion of the rack. If this is normal, then what else should I be checking? The pump is fine, the lines and rack do not leak, the fluid level is correct. If I need a complete rack, I think I will probably learn to live with this until or unless it gets a lot worse! Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.
If I understand your description, at least some of the play is between the pinion gear and the rack gear. If your rack has a hex-headed preload adjustment nut inside a graduated ring, as seen in the lower left of the photo below (borrowed from eBay), you may be able to reduce some or all of the play. First, if there are no reference marks or paint marks for the current position of the adjustment nut, add some so you can return the nut to its current position if necessary. Once your marks are in place, try turning the nut clockwise slightly, one or two graduated increments at a time, then take a test drive. At some point you will sense that the play has been reduced. Continue adjusting the nut one increment at a time until the play has just been eliminated. If you go too far, the rack may lose its ability to self-center when coming out of turns. If you get to that point, you will have to back the nut off until the self-centering returns.
Another source of play is the rubber bushings that separate the rack from the mounting brackets, as can be seen in the photo below. With age, the rubber softens and allows more lateral movement of the rack. New bushings are still available from Jaguar and the good independent Jag specialists like our forum sponsors. Note that the right and left bushings are slightly different and have different part numbers, but some sellers will sell you the same part for both ends.
I don't know if it would work on an X308, but the X300 sport models had rigid hard plastic bushings added between the mounting brackets and rack to reduce or eliminate any lateral movement of the rack. I made my own bushings and added them to our '93 XJ40:
Thanks for explaining Don! This is also the most common fix for a slight kibble(technical term) in the steering wheel by tightening the preload. IME one notch clockwise is about all you want to do.
Mine has the same "center play" when driving straight. Curves are still nice and tight.
My play is in the spline entering the rack. As these racks aren't supposed to wear that quickly, my local Jaguar garage expert gave me the tip as mentioned above. I have yet to try it but doubt it will actually change anything as straight on play is a standard wear (as you most commonly drive straight and steer from the straight to the sides all the time). What worries me sometimes is how much play the steering does have and then doesn't. Some days it is "huge" (about 3-4° each side) and other days it is great... Weird car.
Well, I finally got to fiddle with my "kibble" (Hmmm, sounds like something one would be reprimanded for) and thanks to the guidance from Don B as supplemented by Brutal, I managed to eliminate about 80% of my slack before I ran out of adjustment. I went in increments of 1 notch at a time and after 4 notches ran out of adjustment. It was actually that 4th notch that did it, as the difference was barely noticeable until then. THANKS! (Now, if Don and Brutal get a chance to see my "slack in rear-end" post, I would sure appreciate some more advice!)