Hi everyone! I managed to post this in the wrong forum first, but I'll try again (I couldn't imagine that the X300 was considered a modern car, but it seems I was wrong). hehe


The thing is:


I have a problem with my XJ6 1995 3.2 and I知 hoping someone can help. It started with me managing to hit my garage with my front bumper, which resulted in it falling off. It was a bit of a hassle mounting the bumper back on (I had to fasten the brackets to the bumper first, with nuts and washers under the chrome list, and then mount it to the chassis). When the bumper fell of, the wiring was not damaged, I undid the wiring myself and put them back together after the bumper was back on. The car endedup sitting there for a couple of weeks. When I tried to start the engine after this it seemed not to run on all cylinders.. I changed the spark plugs and tried to start the engine again. It did not run on all cylinders after this either and stopped when revving it. Now the engine won稚 start at all. The engine warning light does not turn off when turning the key to starting position. Is this how it should be? I知 thinking it may be a fuel problem (filter or pump maybe). I知 thankful for any suggestions as to what may be the cause of my problem. I知 not a mechanic and not at all an expert on jags.


I can add that I'll check the fuses later today. Is it posible for the engine to get fuel for a short period of time (if not the right amount) if the fuel pump doesn't start? In case it's a fuse problem, I mean.


Thanks!

 

Hi danegg,

I'm sorry to hear of the troubles with your 1995 XJ6 3.2L. It is possible that your current starting/running issues have nothing to do with the bump into the garage. But if they are related, the first things that come to mind are:

1. Could the relays mounted to the right of the radiator have been disturbed? The relay on the far right is the Engine Control Module (ECM) Controlled Relay, which provides power for the Engine Management System.

2. Also, in the same front right corner of the engine bay below that row of relays are two large electrical connectors with about 12 pins each. The fuel pump circuit runs through one of those connectors, so if there was corrosion on the pins, perhaps the bump with the garage could have caused an interruption in the electrical circuit for the fuel pump. It would be worth opening up both of those connectors and cleaning them with zero-residue electronic cleaner spray.

Do you have a scanner to check for any stored diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs)? That might be the best next step.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for answering, Don. Well.. I was just out troubleshooting, and I'm pretty sure it's not the connectors you mentioned. It's not fuses either, as far as I can tell. It may be the relay though. I think I'll find out if the fuel pump works next, and change the fuel filter if the pump works. I have a suspicion it might be a fuel problem. I'll try to put a spark plug in a coil and place it on the engine block to see if I've got a spark. I havn't done that yet, but the engine was firing on some cylinders, even after I changed the spark plugs, so I don't think that's the problem. I can mention that it has been somewhat cold here. Below freezing for the most part. I'll keep you posted on the progress.

Cheers.

 

You can test the fuel pump and the wiring between the relay and pump by jumping across terminals 87 and 30 in the fuel pump relay socket. A paper clip bent into a U works well as a jumper.

You can also measure across terminals 85 and 86, the fuel pump relay control circuit, for a brief surge of 12V when you first turn the key to Position II (ON), or for a constant 12V while cranking the engine.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks. I'll try that. And btw: if I cranked the engine, and assuming fuel is delivered, do you then know if I should be able to see fuel on top of a piston head if I removed a spark plug an looked down on it?

And I don't have the scanner for DTCs, but maybe I'll get one. I'll have a search on ebay.

Thanks again.

 

Maybe. The fuel is mixed with air entering the cylinder so you may or may not be able to see wet fuel. A more conclusive test is to disconnect the fuel inlet hose from the end of the fuel rail near the firewall/bulkhead, aim the hose into a catch container and briefly crank the engine to observe the flow of fuel from the hose.

If you have a smart phone such as an Android or iPhone, then for the money it's hard to beat an ELM327 bluetooth OBDII device in conjunction with the Torque Pro application.

I'm using an ELM327 like this one, but some folks have had trouble with the cheap ones:
ELM327 V2.1 OBD 2 OBD-II Car Auto Bluetooth Diagnostic Interface Scanner Android | eBay

The Torque Lite app for Android is free, but the Torque Pro app is well worth the cost of USD $5.00 from the Google Play Store. I'm not sure about the iPhone version.

Cheers,

Don

 

perhaps you tripped the inertia switch (roll over switch) I believe it is located just forward of the eng cont comp (ECU/ECM) It is a black switch with a soft rubber top. pressing in on the top resets it. On my car (1997 xj6 4.0) its behind the right hand side kick panel in the pass comp.

 

Hi again.

There has been some time since I last worked on my car, but I've now bought an obd2 scanner. It gives me the following trouble code:

P0413 OBD-II Trouble Code: Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open

I've googled and found another post here on the subject. From what I understand the problem can be anywhere in that system. I hope I'll find the culprit. Will post an update as soon as I know more.

Thanks for all replies.

Daniel

 

Hi Daniel,

The Jaguar definitions of diagnostic trouble codes do not always match the generic definitions, so it's best to consult the Jaguar documentation. You can download the 1995 X300 AJ16 DTC Summaries Guide from this forum at the link below:

Jaguar X300 AJ16 DTC Summaries Guide


Here's a snip of the page where the definition of P0413 appears:




Looks like a problem with the secondary air injection relay or its electrical circuit. The relay is one of the three relays mounted near the radiator in the front right corner of the engine bay (as viewed from the driver's seat). See the location diagram on pdf page 26 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download here:

Jaguar XJ Electrical Guide 1995

Cheers,

Don

 

Be aware also that this is a commonly reported DTC on cars that never had Air Injection - like in the UK. We also commonly get a DTC for EGR valve which we never had.

I don't know whether Norway had Air Injection or not. Perhaps someone who has this system on their car can say what to look for to confirm whether you actually have it or not.

 

If the car has had some starts and stops in a short time without coming up to temperature it could be flooded. I had that once - started the car, moved it a car length and shut it off. Wouldn't start after that until I pulled the spark plugs and dried everything off.

X300's are also sensitive to battery voltage, make sure the battery is fully charged and in good shape. If it's more than about 5 years old you should probably just replace it.

 

Hi again. I couldn't find the culprit, so I got some automotive technicians to look at it. I just got a phonecall from them, and the engine is now running. The compression was low, apparently. It's still a bit low, but getting better.


I don't know what the problem was exactly, but they said that it may be a result of it standing still for too long.


Well, thanks for all replies. Much appreciated!