XF S/C - XFR electric exhaust cutouts
#1
XF S/C - XFR electric exhaust cutouts
I've read much about exhaust upgrades for the XFR. Seems the XF supercharged uses the same dual mode back box / muffler setup. I've been interested in installing electric exhaust cutouts, but was unsure if the end result would be "worth it". Put the car on a lift and realized the only place to install is at the rear, just before the mufflers. Realized it would take minimal efforts to loosen the clamps that hold the rear muffler assembly on. 15 minutes later i had both back boxes on the ground and we started the car.
WOW!!!!!!
i didn't realize the roar that was silences by the backboxes... amazing sound.
it took 9 minutes to get pulled over. Popping and hissing and snarling - it was amazing!!!! Cop was cool. no warning even. let me go.
so i had my answer and immediately order 2.5'' cutouts kits from ebay. they will be welded in place on Monday of next week.
this seems like a perfect solution for those wanting to walk on both sides exhaust sound law.
in fact, there will be three exhaust modes
- low flow factory
- high flow factory backbox internal bypass valve
- cutouts open
WOW!!!!!!
i didn't realize the roar that was silences by the backboxes... amazing sound.
it took 9 minutes to get pulled over. Popping and hissing and snarling - it was amazing!!!! Cop was cool. no warning even. let me go.
so i had my answer and immediately order 2.5'' cutouts kits from ebay. they will be welded in place on Monday of next week.
this seems like a perfect solution for those wanting to walk on both sides exhaust sound law.
in fact, there will be three exhaust modes
- low flow factory
- high flow factory backbox internal bypass valve
- cutouts open
#3
-- should be installed tomorrow.. the kit i bought is here:
2X 2.5" Inch 63mm Electric Exhaust Muffler Valve Cutout System Dump Remote
I have modified the kit to make it work for our exhaust system - will post vids once completed
excited!!
#4
I've been looking at using these cut out valves, but in a slightly different way - the usual way to mount these is using a Y pipe, so with the valve closed the exhaust goes through the mufflers, and with it open it gets dumped out of a short straight pipe upstream = LOUD.
While that's obviously the operation a lot of people want, I was super happy with my X pipe + Mina backboxes - just the right kind of volume/noise at full chat, but not too droney on the freeway. What I'd like is a way of muting my exhaust when I drive the car into the garage late at night, because I like to be a good neighbor
My plan is to get two of these valves, drill a hole in the valve plate so it always lets a small amount of gas through, then mount them inline on each muffler pipe, so with the valve closed, the exhaust pipe is restricted (but not closed completely) and with the valve open the exhaust flows normally. It also makes sense to mount the valves so pressure from the engine at full chat forces the valve open, not closed, as a failsafe.
I've seen various theories about how effective this will be, but I've read good reports about the Apexi ECV which is basically a manual cable-operated version of this.
I also considered a control box that hooks into the canbus wiring and opens the valve when Dynamic mode is on, and closes it when it's off, but this certainly isn't for the faint of heart and I'm not sure you necessarily always want it tied to Dynamic mode.
While that's obviously the operation a lot of people want, I was super happy with my X pipe + Mina backboxes - just the right kind of volume/noise at full chat, but not too droney on the freeway. What I'd like is a way of muting my exhaust when I drive the car into the garage late at night, because I like to be a good neighbor
My plan is to get two of these valves, drill a hole in the valve plate so it always lets a small amount of gas through, then mount them inline on each muffler pipe, so with the valve closed, the exhaust pipe is restricted (but not closed completely) and with the valve open the exhaust flows normally. It also makes sense to mount the valves so pressure from the engine at full chat forces the valve open, not closed, as a failsafe.
I've seen various theories about how effective this will be, but I've read good reports about the Apexi ECV which is basically a manual cable-operated version of this.
I also considered a control box that hooks into the canbus wiring and opens the valve when Dynamic mode is on, and closes it when it's off, but this certainly isn't for the faint of heart and I'm not sure you necessarily always want it tied to Dynamic mode.
#5
I should mention I'm also a bit dubious about the electronic servos these kits use, there's a lot out there to suggest they fail quite frequently, and my suspicion is they can't cope with the heat of the exhaust pipe for sustained periods.
My preference would be to use one of these vacuum-operated ones (and I think we can all agree from the caption on this picture alone that EXQUISITE DARE OUTSTANDING is reason enough to buy it!) because you can buy electronic vacuum pumps so these will operate in much the same way (though arguably with quicker response than the servos) but you can keep all the control stuff away from the exhaust pipe heat and just connect them with some vacuum hose.
My preference would be to use one of these vacuum-operated ones (and I think we can all agree from the caption on this picture alone that EXQUISITE DARE OUTSTANDING is reason enough to buy it!) because you can buy electronic vacuum pumps so these will operate in much the same way (though arguably with quicker response than the servos) but you can keep all the control stuff away from the exhaust pipe heat and just connect them with some vacuum hose.
#6
I should mention I'm also a bit dubious about the electronic servos these kits use, there's a lot out there to suggest they fail quite frequently, and my suspicion is they can't cope with the heat of the exhaust pipe for sustained periods.
My preference would be to use one of these vacuum-operated ones (and I think we can all agree from the caption on this picture alone that EXQUISITE DARE OUTSTANDING is reason enough to buy it!) because you can buy electronic vacuum pumps so these will operate in much the same way (though arguably with quicker response than the servos) but you can keep all the control stuff away from the exhaust pipe heat and just connect them with some vacuum hose.
My preference would be to use one of these vacuum-operated ones (and I think we can all agree from the caption on this picture alone that EXQUISITE DARE OUTSTANDING is reason enough to buy it!) because you can buy electronic vacuum pumps so these will operate in much the same way (though arguably with quicker response than the servos) but you can keep all the control stuff away from the exhaust pipe heat and just connect them with some vacuum hose.
if electric actuator fails, it may be from heat soak degradation, but i'd be more suspicious of resistance causing it to work hard if carbon built up on the rotating disk. that the part that may need to be kept clean
Last edited by Adam J; 04-02-2017 at 08:10 PM. Reason: additional info
#7
yeah, i looked into all of that too, mostly because i thought the diaphragm on the "dual mode" mufflers was already vacuum operated. it's actually flow operated. worst case - if my new parts ever fail, the entire kits are $70 each. can probably buy the electric actuators for far less.
if electric actuator fails, it may be from heat soak degradation, but i'd be more suspicious of resistance causing it to work hard if carbon built up on the rotating disk. that the part that may need to be kept clean
if electric actuator fails, it may be from heat soak degradation, but i'd be more suspicious of resistance causing it to work hard if carbon built up on the rotating disk. that the part that may need to be kept clean
That's fair, and good point about carbon build up - you can probably add "vibration" to the list of things that might cause the servos to fail too. I've found the vacuum-operated ones can be found in two variants - normally open, or normally closed - If I go with the vacuum-operated valves I'll get the normally open one that can be closed with a vacuum. I do prefer the idea of the servos for simplicity though.
Did you order the 2.5" model? If so, could you measure the approximate diameter of the rotating disc for me (if it isn't on the car yet)? Because I want to mount it inline I need to make sure that even fully open it's not going to be too much of a restriction - obviously in the traditional use with a Y-Pipe that opens it's not an issue.
Trending Topics
#8
That's fair, and good point about carbon build up - you can probably add "vibration" to the list of things that might cause the servos to fail too. I've found the vacuum-operated ones can be found in two variants - normally open, or normally closed - If I go with the vacuum-operated valves I'll get the normally open one that can be closed with a vacuum. I do prefer the idea of the servos for simplicity though.
Did you order the 2.5" model? If so, could you measure the approximate diameter of the rotating disc for me (if it isn't on the car yet)? Because I want to mount it inline I need to make sure that even fully open it's not going to be too much of a restriction - obviously in the traditional use with a Y-Pipe that opens it's not an issue.
Did you order the 2.5" model? If so, could you measure the approximate diameter of the rotating disc for me (if it isn't on the car yet)? Because I want to mount it inline I need to make sure that even fully open it's not going to be too much of a restriction - obviously in the traditional use with a Y-Pipe that opens it's not an issue.
#10
#11
made this plate to help muffler shop keep them reasonably aligned with each other.
straight flow out since tapped in heel of factory 90* bends
step one - bolts through flange
1st gasket
actuator
2nd gasket
outlet flange
repeat for passenger side
mounting / bolt up complete - now wiring
factory grommet in spare tire well under subwoofer
wiring in spare tire well. powered from battery positive with 2 amp ATC in line fuse. grounded via battery hold down screw to body
finished product up close
finished product from further back
#15
ok, here is the uncorked exhaust sound - turn up speakers and enjoy
the video's microphone quality is decent, but it doesn't touch how amazing it sounds in person...
total cost was $270
$140 shipped for dual cutout kit
$120 cash for muffler shop to weld it on
$10 for a fuse holder and fuses at local auto zone
so, in my opinion, it's a much better option that buying aftermarket exhausts because you get the best of factory quiet and the menacing sound of wide open pipes when you press the button, all for much less money that the exhaust systems on the market.. just my thoughts..
the video's microphone quality is decent, but it doesn't touch how amazing it sounds in person...
total cost was $270
$140 shipped for dual cutout kit
$120 cash for muffler shop to weld it on
$10 for a fuse holder and fuses at local auto zone
so, in my opinion, it's a much better option that buying aftermarket exhausts because you get the best of factory quiet and the menacing sound of wide open pipes when you press the button, all for much less money that the exhaust systems on the market.. just my thoughts..
#17
no noticeable battery drain issue - i sometimes let the car sit for several days and it starts right up
#19
Absolutely awesome, how long to install? I already bought aftermarket mufflers to replace stock, I wonder if this kit will make my 09 SC even angrier!!! Great video, keep your muffler guy.....already got quoted at meineke $400 just to install my new mufflers...crazy price that's why I am asking how long it took to install? Please advise and thanks again :-)
#20
Absolutely awesome, how long to install? I already bought aftermarket mufflers to replace stock, I wonder if this kit will make my 09 SC even angrier!!! Great video, keep your muffler guy.....already got quoted at meineke $400 just to install my new mufflers...crazy price that's why I am asking how long it took to install? Please advise and thanks again :-)