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Is the PCV hose connecting to the SC intake supposed to be supple or rigid? Mine is hard as a rock. I think I've narrowed my P0171 and 174 down to a mal-fitting connection at the aluminum pipe I installed. Wondering if I can get it to quit stressing the connector and o-ring by heating it in hot water and cooling it into a shape that will make a leak free connection? Or maybe I could just go with a thicker o-ring.
Theyre pretty rigid, I accidentally ordered the wrong part from the dealer, and got that PCV hose instead. The brand new one was pretty stiff as well.
I ordered the Mina Gallery intake, which just came with a piece of vacuum hose and two hose clamps to replace that hose. Just a thought, only looking at a few bucks from the auto parts store.
If you can monitor your fuel trims a quick shot of carb. cleaner on the welded bung will tell you if that's your leak.
Are you aware of the P/B connection on the rear elbow? These have a terrible design with an internal o-ring that gets hard and fails. I have a complete write up on the repair.
It's a very common vacuum leak on the SC 4.2L engine.
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Theyre pretty rigid, I accidentally ordered the wrong part from the dealer, and got that PCV hose instead. The brand new one was pretty stiff as well.
I ordered the Mina Gallery intake, which just came with a piece of vacuum hose and two hose clamps to replace that hose. Just a thought, only looking at a few bucks from the auto parts store.
funny. when i was making up the part a member told me the hose gets enough vacuum from the crank to collapse a pliable hose. maybe i'll just replace it and make a test run.
Im not sure on that honestly, just used what was provided in the kit, but its a big enough hose that I doubt it would have an effect. Its large enought to fit over both nipples, probably around 3/4 of an inch.
I haven't had any problems yet. Well with the intake at least.
funny. when i was making up the part a member told me the hose gets enough vacuum from the crank to collapse a pliable hose. maybe i'll just replace it and make a test run.
Sorry mate when you asked me " does it matter what kind of pipe is used for the pcv breather pipe " I thought you were referring the pcv pipe not the crank breather pipe, so to clarify I ment the one with the diaphragm valve on the RH side of the engine Witch leads to the intake elbow under the TB ,
The pipe on the LH cam cover leading to the JPipe is not so critacle to withstand vacume .
andy - thanks for your input anyway. you've more than once sent me in the right direction with your posts. this car is light years beyond what i've dealt with in the past. The cars i've had i can literally get in the engine bay and work. yeah, i did mean the crank breather and i'll hook up some hose and clamps and see if those codes go away. . . and check out the PB elbow. I can't seem to find the STR in the EPC download, any hints?
The "R" is in the JEPC but it's not a separate model. So you pick the S Type and just drill down thru the part descriptions and it will break out the 6 cly and 8 cyl and SC part numbers.
As you probably know the JEPC is a bit out of date by now and we don't have the web connection to get the updated part numbers. So always go to a Jaguar dealer web site and put the part number in to see if it is still current.
Use the last 6 digits of your VIN when ordering parts because Jaguar made a lot of running changes.
Here is the elbow with the bad P/B connection circled in red;
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Last edited by clubairth1; 05-01-2017 at 07:26 AM.
Sorry wrong. I had this leak on my 2005 STR and it does set both of those codes.
Ignore it at your own risk. I will guarantee at this late date that crazy internal O-ring is hard as a rock and in pieces.
Just monitor fuel trims and spray carb cleaner on it. You will find out in seconds if it's leaking.
Also read up on the brass $6 fitting that will fix it permanently.
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Is the PCV hose connecting to the SC intake supposed to be supple or rigid? Mine is hard as a rock. I think I've narrowed my P0171 and 174 down to a mal-fitting connection at the aluminum pipe I installed. Wondering if I can get it to quit stressing the connector and o-ring by heating it in hot water and cooling it into a shape that will make a leak free connection? Or maybe I could just go with a thicker o-ring.
connection at the tube is wiggly.
I was referring to this hose. Not that throttle body leak. Of course thats a bad ons bc its into the engine combustion path. But the OPs post was crankcase
I was referring to this hose. Not that throttle body leak. Of course thats a bad ons bc its into the engine combustion path. But the OPs post was crankcase
i'll bet you any thing it does matter . the breather pipe will indeed trigger a lean code if you diss connect it or puncture it .
as it is after the MAF sensor .
try for your self .
i'll bet you any thing it does matter . the breather pipe will indeed trigger a lean code if you diss connect it or puncture it .
as it is after the MAF sensor .
try for your self .