When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am thinking of rebuilding, porting and upgrading my Eaton supercharger with powerhouse in the U.K.
Ok, so this is what I would like to do :
1) full supercharger rebuild + snout rebuild
2) upper pulley : 6% or 10% - I am unsure yet
3) supercharger porting : stage 1 or stage 2 - I am unsure yet
In order for me to take a educated decision, could you kindly tell me what are the pro's and con's regarding the upper pulley and the supercharge porting various options ?
Could you also give me a rough estimate on hp gains for these modifications ?
Finally, let's say I wish to do the full rebuild (supercharger and snout) + 10% pulley + stage 2 porting :
1) should/would I need to do extra modifications regarding cooling for durability?
2) what would be the total hp gains?
Thanxs in advance for your explanations, experiences and advice
there are many opinions out there . but honestly there are minimal gains from any one mod . if you do the 1.5# pulley and porting you might see 25hp . the 3.0# pulley makes too much heat as it's too over driven for the roots blower size and design .
high flow cats and an intake 3'' j pipe/or better a caldoofy upgrade j pipe and a k&n panel
you might see a net of 40-50hp and similar torque increase including the 1.5# pulley and porting .
from what I've read the porting doesn't do much for power directly . but indirectly by reducing inefficiencies with the blowers boost production . and not overly noticeable .
yes there are positive steps you can take in the inter cooling setup . cooling fans, larger displacement IC pumps , and even adding capacity to the coolant with in line tanks helps. .
there are many opinions out there . but honestly there are minimal gains from any one mod . if you do the 1.5# pulley and porting you might see 25hp . the 3.0# pulley makes too much heat as it's too over driven for the roots blower size and design .
high flow cats and an intake 3'' j pipe/or better a caldoofy upgrade j pipe and a k&n panel
you might see a net of 40-50hp and similar torque increase including the 1.5# pulley and porting .
from what I've read the porting doesn't do much for power directly . but indirectly by reducing inefficiencies with the blowers boost production . and not overly noticeable .
yes there are positive steps you can take in the inter cooling setup . cooling fans, larger displacement IC pumps , and even adding capacity to the coolant with in line tanks helps. .
hi thanxs, for your reply. I actually already have sports cats and a modified exhaust and I also have an upgraded air intake.
ok Thanxs for your advice regarding the pulley :-) so what about the porting ? They have 2 stages, the second one also includes a throttle elbow. What are you thoughts regarding stage 1 and 2 ?
I have the 3# upper pulley, 82mm Maxbore TB, ported elbow, Bosch 010 I/C pump, 200 cell cats, and modified intake. HP gains have been discussed many times over the years on the Forum, and I do not know what they actually are. The car in stock form is 370, and my guess is that these changes put it into the 400-410 range. One of the benefits of the upper pulley modification is that the power comes on sooner, which can make the car more fun to drive in daily situations. My understanding is that the Eaton loses efficiency at higher RPMs, so my guess is that the modifications do not have too much benefit above, say, 4000-4500 RPM. All of these mods, taken together, are reasonable in cost, noticeable, and make the car much more fun to drive.
How in depth of a blower rebuild are you planning to do? Rear needle bearings, rotor pack bearings? The needle bearings you can DIY but the rotor pack bearings get tricky, since the timing is so critical else your rotors collide.
From what I've read the gains from porting the blower are minimal, if any at all. It does make the blower whine louder though, if that's your thing. Maybe someone with experience will tell us otherwise, that's just what I've read so far. Porting the intake elbow may show gains. I've read that larger/smoother intake tubing does net measurable gains, there's a thread out there somewhere that I can't find at the moment.
If you're doing all this, it may be worth sourcing a Gen V blower, so the ones that are used on the 4.2 SC Jag engines. They have teflon coated rotors for improved efficiency, and helical cut gears for quieter operation. I've got one in my basement waiting for some needle bearing love and the motivation to drain and R/I coolant crap so I can get to the blower. If you do that, get the TB elbow to blower gasket. Search around, it's mostly a direct drop in.
So far I have only seen 1 dyno of a ported M112 unit, where it lost a tiny bit of power. Only true change is noise, the unit will scream more.
Best to ask the supplier, and don't forget to ask any dyno results, or a bench test that shows temperature reduction of what some claim.
Personally I prefer water/meth if you need to cool the charge, it will provide a much better protection and can aid in clean intake/cylinders. I take it any known brand is good, I chose coolingmist.
I would recommend contacting or searching for member WaterDragon, he has a 10.1 sec car w/17psi boost and not a lot invested and he likes running his car. All his info is in his signature.
For cooling, upgrade to the Bosch 010 water pump, its for a Merc, but flows more, I'm sure WaterDragon has this also. You can do searches here for further info. I can say from personal experience, depending on whom you buy from, you may have to improvise your own connector (I used a computer 2 wire lead connector), which isn't hard, just an fyi. Most are wired and its an easy solder splice, mine only had pin leads and I haven't had time to put it in yet (just got it about a month ago), other more pressing projects.
How in depth of a blower rebuild are you planning to do? Rear needle bearings, rotor pack bearings? The needle bearings you can DIY but the rotor pack bearings get tricky, since the timing is so critical else your rotors collide.
From what I've read the gains from porting the blower are minimal, if any at all. It does make the blower whine louder though, if that's your thing. Maybe someone with experience will tell us otherwise, that's just what I've read so far. Porting the intake elbow may show gains. I've read that larger/smoother intake tubing does net measurable gains, there's a thread out there somewhere that I can't find at the moment.
If you're doing all this, it may be worth sourcing a Gen V blower, so the ones that are used on the 4.2 SC Jag engines. They have teflon coated rotors for improved efficiency, and helical cut gears for quieter operation. I've got one in my basement waiting for some needle bearing love and the motivation to drain and R/I coolant crap so I can get to the blower. If you do that, get the TB elbow to blower gasket. Search around, it's mostly a direct drop in.
thanxs man, do you know a good source to source a Gen V blower?
Cheers
If you're in MD the Jessup LKQ Pick your Part has an S type R with the blower still on it. Dunno the condition of it, or if the car's still there, you can check their inventory online. When I spun it, the pulley had a little bit of last, reasonable for a junkyard pulley and not a big deal if you're going to do the coupler anyway. Didn't have time to mess with it any more.
Other than that, the usual Ebay, car-part.com, and so on. Maybe shops that specialize in superchargers could have a few in stock that are already rebuilt/inspected, I don't know.
[/QUOTE]If you're doing all this, it may be worth sourcing a Gen V blower, so the ones that are used on the 4.2 SC Jag engines. They have teflon coated rotors for improved efficiency, and helical cut gears for quieter operation. I've got one in my basement waiting for some needle bearing love and the motivation to drain and R/I coolant crap so I can get to the blower. If you do that, get the TB elbow to blower gasket. Search around, it's mostly a direct drop in.[/QUOTE]
Mines a gen V , and yes it has the black Teflon coating ,
But no helical cut gears here ! As you can see , I doubt you'll notice any big increases by going to the gen v blower , probably y as much differance as can be expected from the porting .
Hmm. I had a picture of the gear teeth somewhere in my backups, I'll have to try and find that. The one I pulled was also off a STR. You're right about it not being a massive increase, I think the only difference is a slight increase in efficiency (less heat) from the teflon coating. I figure if you're spending the money to overhaul a supercharger, esp the rotor pack, and porting, you'd want that extra little bit from the coating as well.
When I had my 2005 Gen V 4.2 SC modified by PSE they replaced the original rotor assembly, and gears , with one from a 2007 Gen V SC as well as S porting and a 10% pulley.
The reason they went with the 2007 rotors and gearing was to get the extra performance from the "better" gearing.
When I had my 2005 Gen V 4.2 SC modified by PSE they replaced the original rotor assembly, and gears , with one from a 2007 Gen V SC as well as S porting and a 10% pulley.
The reason they went with the 2007 rotors and gearing was to get the extra performance from the "better" gearing.
that is a strange claim . as the rotors spin 1 to 1 with the snout pulley . its directly coupled via the coupler .
and different gearing would cause an internal collision with the rotors .
this makes no sense to me at all .
If you're doing all this, it may be worth sourcing a Gen V blower, so the ones that are used on the 4.2 SC Jag engines. They have teflon coated rotors for improved efficiency, and helical cut gears for quieter operation. I've got one in my basement waiting for some needle bearing love and the motivation to drain and R/I coolant crap so I can get to the blower. If you do that, get the TB elbow to blower gasket. Search around, it's mostly a direct drop in.[/QUOTE]
Mines a gen V , and yes it has the black Teflon coating ,
But no helical cut gears here ! As you can see , I doubt you'll notice any big increases by going to the gen v blower , probably y as much differance as can be expected from the porting . [/QUOTE]
Hi, thanxs for your input. However, I am not sure what you mean by "I doubt you'll notice any big increases by going to the gen v blower , probably y as much differance as can be expected from the porting".
Benson, what the guys are trying to tell you is there's no real gain, I've messed around enough to know that all we're able to do with the Eaton is bring the torque curve in earlier.
With a larger crank pulley, or smaller snout pulley we access the power earlier in the rev range.
If you want to spent money doing this go ahead. The real gains are made by adding a twin screw supercharger, and by coincidence AVOS - who has been down the Eaton road, and got the cap, Tee shirt AND mug has already said as much. Powerhouse is a business, they're there to sell you parts. AVOS has developed a kit for true power gains, if you're serious about a big increase then talk to him.
Also, do a search and look through the 'ENGINES' Forum - lots of info...
that is a strange claim . as the rotors spin 1 to 1 with the snout pulley . its directly coupled via the coupler .
and different gearing would cause an internal collision with the rotors .
this makes no sense to me at all .
Ed Martinez, the owner of PSE, made that claim to me and I have no reason to doubt him.
And of course there is a 1 to 1 gearing between the rotor spin and the snout pulley however if the actual gears are different then they could spin the rotors slightly faster per revolution of the snout pulley.
In fact the hp rating of the 2005 XJR is 390 hp and the 2006 is 400 hp in most literature.
Twin-screw really is the way to go if you've got the money and are looking for proper power gains.
Since the gears are fixed to the rotors, and the rotors must spin 1:1, and the snout connects directly to the gears, they must always spin 1:1. The only way the rotors could spin faster than the snout pulley is if there was an extra gearbox in between the snout and the rotors.
Twin-screw really is the way to go if you've got the money and are looking for proper power gains.
Since the gears are fixed to the rotors, and the rotors must spin 1:1, and the snout connects directly to the gears, they must always spin 1:1. The only way the rotors could spin faster than the snout pulley is if there was an extra gearbox in between the snout and the rotors.
If the two gear wheels are different with the snout powered gear larger than the rotor gear the rotors would spin a bit faster. Basic engineering.
I agree twin screw is the way to go but very expensive.
Ok looks like I was wrong see this that I received from PSE just now Quote: "I've look at your invoice 14687 and I do not see any special indication on your paperwork indicating whether or not your supercharger had straight cut gears or helix gears. If your model did have helix gears or the replacement we happen to have had helix gears then I'm sure he was just indicating that the helix gear models tend to run a little bit quieter otherwise there is no difference. I hope this is answered your question."
05-07-2017, 05:16 AM
Supercharger rebuild / porting / upgrading
