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Are you the original poster Marquise Williams? Same person but a different user name? I got confused, thinking you were somebody new. Wasn't sure if the original discrepancy still applied.
Either way, a little more background would help. Maybe a recap, for example.
How long since the AC has worked well for you?
What attempts have been made to fix it?
Does the AC act up in manual mode, with LO selected?
With the car running and A/C on take a temperature reading on the A/C Condenser on all 4 corners. You should get the near the same temperature readings on all 4 corners. If you do not it would be an indication that it is clogged. Give that a try in the A/C auto and manual mode and see what you come up with.
With the car running and A/C on take a temperature reading on the A/C Condenser on all 4 corners. You should get the near the same temperature readings on all 4 corners. If you do not it would be an indication that it is clogged.
Interesting, I'd never heard of this test before. I'm not sure I fully understand it, though. Isn't a condenser similar to a radiator? I've tested many radiators and they are supposed to have a temperature drop, with the outlet typically being at least 30 degrees F cooler than the inlet.
I recently changed the A/C Temperature sensor and it still doesn't get cold when its hot outside. Blows cold as a witches tit early in the day and late when the sun is not 100% up
Which sensor is that? Do you mean the evaporator discharge temp sensor? This is one of the two sensors on the left side of the center console, near the (US spec) gas pedal. Here's a long thread where the fault was eventually determined to be the evaporator discharge temp sensor:
Remember, the two valves inside are spring-loaded open. Any loss of a control input (especially a burnt control module on '03+ cars) or crud inside the DCCV will cause excess heat to be dumped in the AC ducts.
Criminy, I keep thinking I should combine all the great HVAC troubleshooting tips into one thread. The system is a little more complicated than most, but not overly so. I think it would be good to have a nice symptom-based guide with step by step instructions.
Good point on the DCCV it should be checked if it has not been looked at yet.
As for the condenser check, often when servicing the A/C dye with a leak sealer is added and this is a big mistake that sealer will clog the system and the condenser is often the target. Measuring the temperature on the condenser corners will give you a good indicator if it is clogged. Not all readings will be the same but you will know if it seems abnormal.
Are you the original poster Marquise Williams? Same person but a different user name? I got confused, thinking you were somebody new. Wasn't sure if the original discrepancy still applied.
Either way, a little more background would help. Maybe a recap, for example.
How long since the AC has worked well for you?
What attempts have been made to fix it?
Does the AC act up in manual mode, with LO selected?
Yes I am OP...sorry didn't realize my name changed somewhere along the way....I think I lost my password for that account or something....
recap. a few years back A/c wasn't blowing cold. I would go get it charged but every year I would have to keep getting it charged. Took it in for a diag and they found a leaking compressor. got the compressor and the dryer changed and it worked great in the morning and evening when the sun isn't at full blast!
The next summer it was suggested that I change the A/C Temp Sensor but that hasn't worked either. So I'm back at square one hoping that I can find help here before I go pay $150 for another diagnostic.
With the car running and A/C on take a temperature reading on the A/C Condenser on all 4 corners. You should get the near the same temperature readings on all 4 corners. If you do not it would be an indication that it is clogged. Give that a try in the A/C auto and manual mode and see what you come up with.
can you send me some documentation to see what A/C auto and manual mode is please?
can you send me some documentation to see what A/C auto and manual mode is please?
Automatic mode is the default setting for the climate control system. The light in the AUTO button illuminates when in automatic mode. If not on, press the button and the light should come on and you're in automatic mode.
To select manual, hold the temperature select down until LO is displayed. The light in the AUTO button will turn off. With LO displayed, most of the automatic features are bypassed and the system will supply maximum cooling.
I'm curious about your actual duct temperatures. You've said the output seems adequate except on the hottest days. Knowing the true output temp will help for troubleshooting. A properly operating system should be able to put out 38F air under all but the most severe conditions. Just thinking out loud, but maybe you're only getting 50F air. That would cool the cabin on a 75F day, but not 95F.
This might fit your symptoms of adequate cooling in the morning or evening, but not during the hottest part of the day. Even a calibrated hand can barely tell the difference between 38 and 50 degrees. The first is fine, the latter not so much.
To help us, I'd suggest picking up an inexpensive cooking thermometer like this:
A cheap $5 special would be all you need. I have one with a plastic sleeve for a pocket clip. I keep mine clipped in the center dash vent to always keep an eye on AC performance. Try that and get back to us with your duct temps. I'm curious if you're getting properly cold air some times but not others, or if the air is consistently warmer than it should be. That difference will decide how best to proceed.
This recent thread has some good info on the DCCV. See posts #13 and #14:
Remember, the two valves inside are spring-loaded open. Any loss of a control input (especially a burnt control module on '03+ cars) or crud inside the DCCV will cause excess heat to be dumped in the AC ducts.
For some reason, the link given in post #26 isn't working now. Try this, and see posts 13 and 14 for diagnosing a DCCV stuck open and dumping heat into the AC ducts:
Automatic mode is the default setting for the climate control system. The light in the AUTO button illuminates when in automatic mode. If not on, press the button and the light should come on and you're in automatic mode.
To select manual, hold the temperature select down until LO is displayed. The light in the AUTO button will turn off. With LO displayed, most of the automatic features are bypassed and the system will supply maximum cooling.
I'm curious about your actual duct temperatures. You've said the output seems adequate except on the hottest days. Knowing the true output temp will help for troubleshooting. A properly operating system should be able to put out 38F air under all but the most severe conditions. Just thinking out loud, but maybe you're only getting 50F air. That would cool the cabin on a 75F day, but not 95F.
This might fit your symptoms of adequate cooling in the morning or evening, but not during the hottest part of the day. Even a calibrated hand can barely tell the difference between 38 and 50 degrees. The first is fine, the latter not so much.
To help us, I'd suggest picking up an inexpensive cooking thermometer like this:
A cheap $5 special would be all you need. I have one with a plastic sleeve for a pocket clip. I keep mine clipped in the center dash vent to always keep an eye on AC performance. Try that and get back to us with your duct temps. I'm curious if you're getting properly cold air some times but not others, or if the air is consistently warmer than it should be. That difference will decide how best to proceed.
06-03-2017, 08:04 PM
