Question aout bonnet lift struts
#1
Question aout bonnet lift struts
In both of my cars ('85 and '86) the bonnet gas struts cannot hold the bonnet in raised position. I am trying to see if I can mix and match the struts to get one pair that is working. (And achieve it with minimum number of iterations )
My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):
The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):
Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?
Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):
The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):
Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?
Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
#2
In both of my cars ('85 and '86) the bonnet gas struts cannot hold the bonnet in raised position. I am trying to see if I can mix and match the struts to get one pair that is working. (And achieve it with minimum number of iterations )
My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):
The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):
Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?
Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):
The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):
Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?
Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
#4
Hi V1rok
I've had Bonnet/Hood Strut Problems on my Cars as well but 'Jonathan' had a neat idea that not only Solved that problem for just a few Cents.
But also made it Safer by preventing it from Crashing down in a gust of wind.
All you need is a piece of Tube Metal or Plastic that will slide over the Strut, just a tad shorter than the Chromium Piston.
Then when you lift the Bonnet/Hood, just slide the Tube into position and that will prevent the damper from compressing if your dampers were 'shot away' like mine were.
The Photo should explain all.
I used a piece of Chrome Plated Tube in order to lock my 'dodgy damper' in place.
Credit goes to 'Jonathan' for such a great idea.
I've had Bonnet/Hood Strut Problems on my Cars as well but 'Jonathan' had a neat idea that not only Solved that problem for just a few Cents.
But also made it Safer by preventing it from Crashing down in a gust of wind.
All you need is a piece of Tube Metal or Plastic that will slide over the Strut, just a tad shorter than the Chromium Piston.
Then when you lift the Bonnet/Hood, just slide the Tube into position and that will prevent the damper from compressing if your dampers were 'shot away' like mine were.
The Photo should explain all.
I used a piece of Chrome Plated Tube in order to lock my 'dodgy damper' in place.
Credit goes to 'Jonathan' for such a great idea.
The following 2 users liked this post by orangeblossom:
Jonathan-W (07-17-2017),
v1rok (07-10-2017)
#5
This is not a complicated issue even though so many people make it out to be? The number of "mods" I have seen for this "issue" boggles the mind.
Go to local auto store, buy struts, put them on, be done for likely a decade or more.
The strut being extended doesn't tell you anything if it isn't under load, what matters is the resistance to compression. It could be extended under zero load but fail to hold up the hood. How do you know which side is bad? Look at the hood and see if its lower on one side vs the other. Press lightly and see if the hood is too willing to close on a respective side. You do know the already compressed one is toast.
Once they finally wear out, just replace them. You don't buy rubber window stripping and attempt to make windshield wipers when they go bad, you just buy new ones and pop them on. I replaced mine in 2010 and they are still fine.
Go to local auto store, buy struts, put them on, be done for likely a decade or more.
The strut being extended doesn't tell you anything if it isn't under load, what matters is the resistance to compression. It could be extended under zero load but fail to hold up the hood. How do you know which side is bad? Look at the hood and see if its lower on one side vs the other. Press lightly and see if the hood is too willing to close on a respective side. You do know the already compressed one is toast.
Once they finally wear out, just replace them. You don't buy rubber window stripping and attempt to make windshield wipers when they go bad, you just buy new ones and pop them on. I replaced mine in 2010 and they are still fine.
Last edited by sidescrollin; 07-10-2017 at 01:35 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Jonathan-W (07-17-2017)
#6
#7
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#10
I'm with Sidescrollin. The struts on the hatch of my jeep went limp, a bit at a time. Easy. A fresh pair from Rockauto. Forgot the price. But, not a bank buster or even close. I did have to "splurge" on a set of 1/4" drive Torx sockets.
Only, small bump was holding the rather heavy hatch up while I swapped out the struts. A long extension and my drill driver made it easier.
Carl
Only, small bump was holding the rather heavy hatch up while I swapped out the struts. A long extension and my drill driver made it easier.
Carl
#14
#15
Got a good chuckle seeing all of these "fixes" and workarounds for what is a simple and easy task; replacement of a part that is a 'wear item' and is meant to be replaced eventually and is inexpensive and easily found. Amazon and ebay are your friends. Jag specific parts websites are great too if they even have what you need or have it for less than an arm+leg.
#16
#17
Greg
The following users liked this post:
orangeblossom (03-10-2018)