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For those plastic coated (blue/red/yellow) terminals I use cutter part of my bull nose pliers, don't do it too hard or you will cut through the terminal.
Have you tried on EBay, I saw a set on thier, here is a link but it is for the US but will give you an idea. I am sure you can find a similar type on the EBay UK sight
While I would agree with you that Soldering is best, I didn't want to run the risk of getting a Hot Soldering Iron anywhere near the upholstery.
When fitting the Stereo, there are only a couple of Wires that carry 12v and they are protected by in-line fuses, as well as fuses on the back of the Stereo.
As already mentioned, while the Knee Pad Under tray on my 1990 XJS was no doubt added as a Safety Feature.
It seems to cause more problems than it solves, as even while wearing a lightweight pair of Shoes in a Size 9.
I'm finding I'm always catching the toe of my shoe on the edge of this tray if I am not very careful when I go to put on the Brakes.
It's easy to catch the toe of your Shoe on the edge of the Knee Pad protector when you go to put on the brakes.
When changing from the gas pedal to brake, it seems as if you have to keep the toe of your Shoe in the space and then slide it over from one pedal to the other.
If you don't keep the toe of your Shoe in the space between the pedals and knee pad, then sometimes this happens!
Which would not be good in an emergency braking situation.
The lower edge of the Knee Pad is deceptively wide at just over 15mm
Since the edge of this Knee Pad sometimes catches the toe of my Shoe when I brake, I thinking of leaving the Knee Pad off altogether.
With the Knee Pad removed there's more room to get to the Brakes.
I found that out the Hard Way by buying some ratchet crimpers that turned out to be only suitable for non insulated Terminals.
Which have now been returned for a refund.
They can be had with head die to suit the insulated terminals although as with Carl l prefer non insulated with heat shrink or separate insulating boot.
When adapting after market head units which normally come with plug and pigtail wireing l often simply tin the tips of pigtail wires and flatten with pliers and insert into existing OEM plug. This saves butchering original wireing and since these assemblies are normally tucked away out of the way they rarely get disturbed or cause a problem.
I didn't want a Hot Soldering Iron anywhere near the Car, so I just Crimped on Bullet Connectors to the Pigtails of the supplied ISO Plug.
Using my 'el cheapo Crimpers' instead of the New Ones I bought, which unbeknown to me at the time had the wrong die for Crimping Insulated Connectors.
But! but! but!......... After some experimentation, I've come up with what I think are the Ultimate Pair of Home Made 'Crimpers' for putting on those Insulated Terminals.
Not so much a case of making but more a case of adapting a Tool I already had.
As soon as I've taken some Photos to show how it works, I'll put them up.
Still got my original clarion radio cassette. should have kept my cassettes though, dohhhh
dont drive it enough to have a new system,just turn on the radio to 11 and hunt audi's when im driving it.
Still got my original clarion radio cassette. should have kept my cassettes though, dohhhh
dont drive it enough to have a new system,just turn on the radio to 11 and hunt audi's when im driving it.
Hi Leo
I've got loads of those Cassettes and still cannot believe that I was paying nearly a 'Fiver' for just a couple of Songs!
Well maybe not so much Home Made as a Tool I adapted to do the Job.
To say that they are Awesome! is a bit of an understatement and since I'm finding it hard to be humble, I won't even bother to try.
They are really that good!
Having ordered a pair of Ratchet Crimpers and not being an Electrician, I didn't take much notice of the 'Crimping Die'
Where I found out the Hard Way, that they would not be any good to use for Crimping Insulated Terminals.
As you can imagine I was gutted!
The reason being I wanted to do my Stereo installation with a more Professional piece of Kit.
So in the end I had to make do with my 'el Cheapo Crimpers' and though they sort of did the Job.
I would have like the end result to have looked a bit neater, although the Wires are out of sight and can't be seen.
But then I suddenly had an idea!
That I thought I would try, as some time ago I bought a pair of Wire Strippers.
These as you'll see from the Photo, have an Adjustable Screw to adjust the gap, so you only strip the Insulation.
So once I had used them to Strip the Wire and then slid an Insulated Terminal on.
I put the Wire with the Terminal under the Adjustable Screw of the Wire Strippers.
Then as I squeezed the Handles together, the Adjustable Screw in the Wire Strippers, made a very neat and tight round 'Crimp'
And as you can adjust the Screw beforehand, it means that you are able to Pre-Set the depth of the 'Crimp'
So it would work with the Blue-Yellow and Red ones and can be Crimped in Two places if required.
As the Strippers are Spring Loaded, I just used an elastic band to hold the handles together while taking the Photo.
A Standard pair of Wire Strippers with an Adjustment Screw.
After using the Strippers to Strip the Wire, I slid on an Insulated Terminal (in this case a joiner) and then used the Adjustment Screw to set the depth of 'Crimp'
The end result was a very pleasing tight round 'Crimp' that does what it says on the tin.
and so much better than I got with my 'el Cheapo Crimpers'
I avoid those terminals... There better ones which are also more sealed out there... And are easier to use. Those plastic parts and thin tin material are in my eyes a waste of effort.
I hereby dub you an Aussie for ingenuity..............
I don't use those terminals as I used to buy them in bulk I have 100's of the professional ones much like these but are heatshrink to seal them, used in telecommunication underground repair.