Does this look right? (Motorsport tech adapters)
#1
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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#3
Last edited by Unhingd; 07-27-2017 at 08:18 PM.
#4
#5
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,536
Received 3,274 Likes
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2,416 Posts
#6
With factory rims as above you won't have a clearance problem.
Your main concern will be the factory studs being too long, long enough to make it out to those indented areas of the wheel. Where the X is at and the raised areas at 12 and 2 o'clock.
Even if you don't grind or don't believe you need to grind down the factory bolts, after driving a short while listen in a quiet parking garage for a whooshing noise while driving slowly. If you hear it, that is the bolt rubbing on the inside of the wheel.
Also, the car will drive unbalanced. Contact via one or two studs and not the others will make the wheel rotate off centered.
Happened to me on 17mm studs and Gyrodynes. Easily fixed with a Dewalt grinder and under 3-4 mins per corner. Grind them all flat and stop. You will see they are domed with some having an M stamp on the end of the bolt. Then you have a 'measureable' point and you don't under or overgrind certain studs. You remove about 2.2mm.
As others have said here, the hassle is worth it. Car looks so much nicer with spacers. Best mod I've seen.
Your main concern will be the factory studs being too long, long enough to make it out to those indented areas of the wheel. Where the X is at and the raised areas at 12 and 2 o'clock.
Even if you don't grind or don't believe you need to grind down the factory bolts, after driving a short while listen in a quiet parking garage for a whooshing noise while driving slowly. If you hear it, that is the bolt rubbing on the inside of the wheel.
Also, the car will drive unbalanced. Contact via one or two studs and not the others will make the wheel rotate off centered.
Happened to me on 17mm studs and Gyrodynes. Easily fixed with a Dewalt grinder and under 3-4 mins per corner. Grind them all flat and stop. You will see they are domed with some having an M stamp on the end of the bolt. Then you have a 'measureable' point and you don't under or overgrind certain studs. You remove about 2.2mm.
As others have said here, the hassle is worth it. Car looks so much nicer with spacers. Best mod I've seen.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; 07-27-2017 at 09:20 PM.
#7
With factory rims as above you won't have a clearance problem.
Your main concern will be the factory studs being too long, long enough to make it out to those indented areas of the wheel. Where the X is at and the raised areas at 12 and 2 o'clock.
Even if you don't grind or don't believe you need to grind down the factory bolts, after driving a short while listen in a quiet parking garage for a whooshing noise while driving slowly. If you hear it, that is the bolt rubbing on the inside of the wheel.
Also, the car will drive unbalanced. Contact via one or two studs and not the others will make the wheel rotate off centered.
Happened to me on 17mm studs and Gyrodynes. Easily fixed with a Dewalt grinder and under 3-4 mins per corner. Grind them all flat and stop. You will see they are domed with some having an M stamp on the end of the bolt. Then you have a 'measureable' point and you don't under or overgrind certain studs. You remove about 2.2mm.
As others have said here, the hassle is worth it. Car looks so much nicer with spacers. Best mod I've seen.
Your main concern will be the factory studs being too long, long enough to make it out to those indented areas of the wheel. Where the X is at and the raised areas at 12 and 2 o'clock.
Even if you don't grind or don't believe you need to grind down the factory bolts, after driving a short while listen in a quiet parking garage for a whooshing noise while driving slowly. If you hear it, that is the bolt rubbing on the inside of the wheel.
Also, the car will drive unbalanced. Contact via one or two studs and not the others will make the wheel rotate off centered.
Happened to me on 17mm studs and Gyrodynes. Easily fixed with a Dewalt grinder and under 3-4 mins per corner. Grind them all flat and stop. You will see they are domed with some having an M stamp on the end of the bolt. Then you have a 'measureable' point and you don't under or overgrind certain studs. You remove about 2.2mm.
As others have said here, the hassle is worth it. Car looks so much nicer with spacers. Best mod I've seen.
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#8
Yep I was hoping in one hand ....
If you have 20" Gyrodynes and 17mm spacers they just BARELY touch and will mar the inside of the wheel just slightly.
Any contact though needs to be dealt with - a safety issue. I am sure many who believe they are not touching on the forum will find out that yes, they are when removing their wheels for service.
Any wheel shop can grind them down to flush for <$50 I am sure. I would just do it.
There is nothing negative about the grinding since the OEM stud threads don't even start until way past the grinding point.
If you have 20" Gyrodynes and 17mm spacers they just BARELY touch and will mar the inside of the wheel just slightly.
Any contact though needs to be dealt with - a safety issue. I am sure many who believe they are not touching on the forum will find out that yes, they are when removing their wheels for service.
Any wheel shop can grind them down to flush for <$50 I am sure. I would just do it.
There is nothing negative about the grinding since the OEM stud threads don't even start until way past the grinding point.
#9
I seem to remember another 17mm / tornadoes owner reported he did not have to grind - so I was hopeful, but mine required a tiny bit of grinding. No regrets though! ymmv