*PLEASE BEAR WITH ME AS I WORK ON MOVING PHOTOS FROM PHOTOBUCKET TO ANOTHER HOSTING SITE*

I was out at the car today and got some work done. First, on the way there I bought a tranny filter, some fluid, engine oil (though as I now know not enough) and the most expensive oil filter I have ever purchased ($63 list price!) Then I replaced the kickdown cable. It was a royal pain in the rear, but I was able to replace it without removing the valve body. I didn't think a dirty, dusty barn was the best place to be removing such a part.
I also finished up the underside of the engine and lowered the car back onto the ground.
What's left is to determine if I have to swap whole intakes or if I can move pieces from the 89 intake to the 93 intake, I have to mount the starter, then plug and plumb everything back in.

One question, since the 93 engine doesn't use the oil cooler, as the 89 did, I want to remove it from the car for simplicity sake. However I can't figure out how to remove the grill to get it out. How do I pop that bugger out?

Cheers, David

 

Hi David,

Ouch! Was that an OE Jaguar-branded filter? FYI, I think Mann makes the Jaguar filters and you can get them from Rock Auto for maybe USD $10. Some of our local auto parts stores carry Mann or can get them. I also like the Wix and Mobil 1 filters, which, like the Manns, have bypass and anti-drainback valves.

I can't recall for certain, but I think the oil cooler is built into the radiator like the transmission fluid cooler, but I may be wrong. Here's how to remove the grille:

Inside the upper edge of the two chrome-plated plastic grille inserts are two small, short Phillips head sheet-metal screws, parts 28 in the diagram below. Remove those screws and the inserts will tilt forward at their top edges and lift out. The bottom edges of the inserts just have a couple of tabs that fit in slots in the stainless steel grille surround, part 11.

If I recall correctly, the grille surround is mounted with four small hex-head machine screws requiring an 8mm socket or something in that range. Unfortunately these screws are not shown in the diagram, but you can see the tabs with screw holes in the right opening of the grille surround (left opening from our point of view):



Cheers,

Don

 

Woww you got taken on that filter mate! Like the fuel filter, it's pretty standard local auto parts fare ...

I use Wix on my 94, and I think they run about $15 - max $20 Canadian

Oh well, next time ...I hope you got your 4 litre jugs of Castrol GTX 20/50 for $19 on sale at Canadian Tire!

Larry

 

The filter was a "high flow" Delco, and thankfully with my discount I got it for $27. It was the only filter Lordco had in stock.

As far as the oil cooler, it is separate from the rad. I can see it, I just couldn't get to it with the grill in place. Thanks for the diagram Don!

 

Well, we took big step today. The big junkyard 4.0 fired up and ran today.
Didn't run it too long as there's no coolant in it right now, but it did run. It was loping between 1000rpm and 1800rpm however, but it hasn't been hooked up to a battery for almost 8 months, and I'm sure the distributor isn't timed exactly perfect.

All I did was put #1 on TDC compression and pointed the distributor in the proximity of the #1 electrode

Also, I've developed a fuel leak, here at the item pictured, it's leaking around the crimp. Is this fuel.line available, and how far towards the back of the car does it go?

 

Oil cooler can be removed it is a seperate item, it can be a real B@($*& to remove, I had to use a pipe wrench IIRC, I also ended up cutting the flexible hoses. I simple removed the filter head and seperated out the cooler section and cut a gasket using shorter bolts to bolt the filter head back to the block. Just make sure that there are no leaks after a settling down period. The 'distributor' is not involved with the timing per se, there have been instances where the spark was not jumping at higher revs due to the dissy being not quite in the correct orientation. With the leaing crimp I am not sure how far the line goes back, you may end up having to find a good damper and splice it in with a double ended brass barb fitting and hose clamps. Ugly but it will work, BTDT with other items in that area, Non return valve failed in the pump so fitted one under the hood. With the surging you could try cleaning the MAF connector, I take it you have the ECU and MAF from the 4.0 lt ? Be aware also that there are differences between the ECU's depending on if the car had O2 sensors or not.

 

I forgot to add that with the cooler removed the engine oil will stay cleaner as you are not mixing <> 1 litre of old/dirty oil at oil change times.

 

I'm hoping the ECU just needs time to "relearn" some parameters such as TPS value at idle. The engine is 4.0 but everything else including all the electrics are original to the car. Not having a signal from the CTS could cause this as well. I have to come back with some jug of coolant and retry, after fixing that fuel leak of course

 

You can set the TPS off the car, value should be <> .45 - .6 from memory,The ECU will NOT compensate for the lack of o2 BTDT it will run if the ECU was from a o2 equiped car but will throw a CEL and stumble as it goes from closed/open, or vic-versa, can never remember which way it switches Oh and the fuel economy will be terrible, again BTDT

 

illustrations of fuel lines and dampers in this thread, page 2

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-162999/page2/

 

posts 13 and 14 on page one of the same thread show the fuel line connectors and how to disassemble

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-car-162999/

 

Went back out to the car today with coolant, and filled it. It was still loping, the cause ended up being the 1989 IAC valve bolted to the 1994 Intake.
Once I bolted the 1994 IAC valve on and hooked it up as normal, even though it wasn't plugged in, the car held nice and steady at 1200 rpm. I have to change connectors to use the 1994 IAC valve. I am assuming they operate roughly the same. The wire colors match too, so hopefully it's just a matter of swapping connectors.

The car will no rev past 1800 rpm however. When it gets up to that range, it just coughs, and stays there, like it's on a limiter. Dizzy position has no effect on it. I also notice when it's up in that range, the tachometer dips, and acts erratically.

Maybe just as simple as a poor connection on the ignition module? If I were to check that, where is the module located?

Also, just confirming, is #1 cylinder at the front or rear of the engine? When I set up the distributor, I set it off the front cylinder.

Regardless, the car has signs of life. Good oil pressure, no major leaks, no funny noises etc...

 

Module is under the coil on a 94 - possibe crank position sensor issue?

#1 is in the front btw and dissy position doesn't affect timing, that's the job of the cps ..check the distributor cap and rotor are ok, module rarely fails, cps does though plus they differ on the various engines AFAIK

 

You're making progress, David!

First off, yes, cylinder #1 is at the front of the engine near the radiator.

If the distributor is installed correctly, with cylinder 1 at TDC, rotating it will make little if any difference because the ECM adapts the ignition timing based on sensor inputs, primarily the crankshaft position sensor (CPS). The Haynes manual gives the proper procedure for installing the distributor and you can download most of the manual here:

Haynes Jaguar XJ40 Service Manual

The limited rpm could be due to an air leak, perhaps caused by a disconnected vacuum hose, carbon canister purge hose, etc.

I don't know for certain, but if you're running the '89 fuel pump, it may not be able to supply sufficient flow for the larger 4.0L engine. On the '88-89 XJ40s some cars had problems with cavitation (if I recall correctly), and Jaguar's solution was to install a second fuel pump in parallel with the original one. Have you changed the fuel filter?

Another problem that occurred on the early XJ40s was partial collapse of the fuel tank due to the carbon canister vent having been plugged at the factory. You might check to be sure that your tank has not collapsed, and that the plug on the carbon canister vent has been removed.

The stepper motors on the IACVs are different between the '89 and '93, but I believe they do operate identically. The IACV gaskets are a common leak point so check to be sure yours is in good condition. If you use sealant to replace a damaged gasket, be sure it's oxygen sensor safe.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for that, I'm hoping that fuel pump is ok. Rockauto lists the same part number for 1988-1992, but a second pump may be an idea. I should do the fuel filter as well.
The ECM may just need time to adjust injector pulse width as well.

Also, I've completed the vacuum brake booster conversion. Which plugs do I have to jump to get rid of the brake warning messages?

 

One other thought on the ignition module/amplifier:

I may have some of the history wrong, but if I recall correctly, on the earlier cars the ignition modules were oriented so the wiring harness connected at 90 degrees relative to the king lead connection to the coil. When the '93 cars were introduced, the ignition module's wiring harness connection was oriented the same direction as, or parallel to, the king lead.

At some point Jaguar revised the module so the wiring harness once again connected at 90 degrees to the king lead. They issued a TSB describing the symptoms this might cure, but I couldn't find the TSB in a quick search. If you are using the '93 ignition module and it's connector is oriented in line with the king lead, you might try unscrewing it temporarily and rotating it 90 degrees to see if the engine performs differently.

Sorry if this is a wild goose chase. Hopefully Motorcarman will chime in and correct me.

Cheers,

Don



Don

 

There have been instances where the engine would run out of revs which did turn out to be the dizzy, as the spark was advanced the rotor began to get out of range of the posts in the cap and the spark refused to jump. May pay to check the dizzy for position as per Haynes.

 

I found my issue. When swapping things over, I didn't trust the crank sensor that came with my junkyard motor, so I thought it would be a good idea to use the crank sensor and bracket from the car, which I know was working when I started taking it apart.

Well as there are differences in the tone rings on the front pulleys, I thought this would be ok. But evidently, it was not.

As soon as I swapped brackets around, it was revving out just perfectly.

I also got a replacement fuel hose, sorta. There was a local guy parting out a 1990, I asked for the fuel hose. I even told him where the fitting was and how to disconnect it, through text message.
When I got there he had just cut the rubber hose off with a knife about 8 inches before the damper.

It's ok, it was cheap, I will try splicing it in. Won't be pretty but will work I suppose

 

Splicing in with a double ended barb fitting will be fine, my non return valve failed and I fitted a McMaster replacement in the engine bay and it was still fine <>8 years later.

 

Don't touch the distributor - all timing on these engines is accomplished in the ECU.