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The motor section seems to be fluid in movement up and down, but cannot entirely dismantle like i did with one a few years ago so cannot explore or clean the brushes which I understand to often be the cause of issues here.
The solenoid section appears entirely dead, no matter what power i apply to it.
any suggestions for testing the motor section as to whether it can/should be repaired.?
1. The solenoid should have three posts to attach electrical conductors to.
a. A large stud for the cable from the battery.+ post.
b. A much smaller one for the white red wire from the starter relay.
c. another large stud with a "bracket" that connects to a large stud on the motor.
2. Ground the solenoid body. Apply 12 v to "b.". Check for volts at "c."
If none, there is an "open" in the solenoid.
3. Motor test alone, sans solenoid. Connect a ground to the motor body.
Apply 12v to the large stud on the motor where the "bridge' attached.
The motor should spin. If not, there is an open in it o possibly more than one. If you get a lot of sparks and heat, there is a big time short in the motor.
4. The motor can be taken apart. The fix might be doable, or not within the average DIY guys resources.
Two or more long bolts are on the end opposite the gear drive. In this application as in others, these hold the three "cases" together. They might be super tight, because of torque and or corrosion.
Now, you can check the condition of the brushes. Probably poor or worse. And the armature segments. Dark with burn and worn badly. If not too bad, it can be cleaned and the mica separating the segments under cut.
The field coils are in the center case. Note the "square holes". These are the heads of the short bots that hold the coil assembly in place. These will be super tight. I've never been able to remove any. The pro's use a special tool. The insulation will be a mess or worse. A meter can be used to check for open, conduction, or dead short.
Have at it You can't make it worse. And with a bit of luck, fix it.
Finally got it all open, but not in the most correct means.
Tested and solenoid is entirely lifeless while drive section makes soft effort to raise the armature when power applied.
the unit is filthy but not as worn looking as I might have expected to see.
Not all that bad. I guess tis is the after much cleaning illustrations.
"slight effort to raise the armature". I don't understand that phrase.
And although the pictures help. I can't zoom in to inspect the segments of the armature where the brushes rub.
The brushes are well worn, not unexpected. But, enough remains to do the job. Should you choose to "fix" this starter, I would replace them. Indeed, it involves a solder connection.
And the field coils look decent. Better than a lot of them. How does the meter read on them ? If it detects an open or short, I'd stop there and go shopping for a rebuild or good used unit.