Water Pump Blues!
#1
Water Pump Blues!
Morning guys. Its been a while since Ive been on here which is usually a good sign. In my case its because the last Jag I had before my current one was crashed into. I then bought a 2014 XJL Portfolio Supercharged and have fallen in love all over again! I have had it since February and been problem free except for two weeks ago. Like many who have posted on here, my water pump or perhaps just the O-ring that goes on the back connecting plastic pipe went bad and began leaking antifreeze everywhere. I did some research on here and was disappointed to see that this is a common issue and has yet to be fully rectified by Jaguar. That said, I purchased a new aftermarket water pump that came with a new connecting pipe and o-ring. I looked for a walk through on how to do it and ended up just free handing it as I could not find any. After installing the waterpump I still had the leak coming from the rear. Turns out there are two o-rings that need replacing and not just one. I ordered a new o-ring and waited the week for shipping. Yesterday I finally got the time to take out the pump yet again and put the new o-ring. And what do you know? Its still leaking. I am not sure if there is a method on how to install the o-rings? Perhaps someone can shed some light on this? Thanks guy!
#3
#5
#7
To help find my leak (after removing the pump 4 times)
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.
This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Waterproof-borescope-inspection-1280x960/dp/B072JGXPLX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1501586668&sr=8-7&keywords=endoscope
This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
Last edited by Paulc732; 08-01-2017 at 06:32 AM.
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etaent (08-15-2017)
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#8
#9
To help find my leak (after removing the pump 4 times)
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Wat...ords=endoscope
This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
Everything Looked good
I ended up getting an endoscope and feeding it behind the pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Wat...ords=endoscope
This is the one I got worked like a charm.
If you do end up changing the outlet pipe you will have to remove the intake not too hard a job, but you will need to remove the gas crossover line be careful here because the fuel pump runs when you unlock the car to pressurize the system.
Let us know what you find.
#10
When I removed it to replace It crumbled in my hand where it inserted into the engine block. (59K miles just for a reference)
here is a pic of the part.(taken from an ebay auction)
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etaent (08-15-2017)
#11
I could see the coolant flowing from the pump outlet pipe the Hard black pipe that comes up behind the coolant pump part number AJ89664,
When I removed it to replace It crumbled in my hand where it inserted into the engine block. (59K miles just for a reference)
here is a pic of the part.(taken from an ebay auction)
When I removed it to replace It crumbled in my hand where it inserted into the engine block. (59K miles just for a reference)
here is a pic of the part.(taken from an ebay auction)
#12
Ok so after finally getting a good angle with the endoscope I was finally able to find where the leak was coming from. It was coming from that plastic pipe that looks like a Y mentioned in a previous post. Here is a picture of the pipe I'm referring to. But now I have another problem, how do I remove and replace it?
#13
If its the pipe as shown in post#10
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay
You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )
I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.
Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.
Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay
You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )
I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502753165&sr=8-1&keywords=silicone+paste
Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.
Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
Last edited by Paulc732; 08-14-2017 at 06:27 PM. Reason: added link to amazon
#14
If its the pipe as shown in post#10
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay
You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )
I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clea...silicone+paste
Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.
Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
you will have to remove the intake manifold.
Very easy to do if you take your time.
be careful with the electrical connection near the fire wall and take lots of pictures.
I recommend just cutting the tie wraps (you will see them) that hold the wires to the knock sensors and replace with new.
I used these.
Uxcell Nylon Auto Car Dome Fir Tree Mount Cable Tie 183mmx5mm 30 Pcs Black | eBay
You will see a chrome pipe going across the front of the manifold that has to be removed. this is the fuel supply so do not unlock the car when you have this removed as this starts the fuel priming (ask me how i know )
I reused my seals just turned them over and used a little silicon paste in the groove in the intake manifold worked for me but you may want to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clea...silicone+paste
Can also use this to lube the slide pins on you breaks.
Good luck but take your time and you will be fine
1-You said not to unlock the car when removing the fuel pipe, do you mean opening the door or literally not having the car unlocked? I need to unlock it to open the hood so I am a bit confused.
2-You said silicone paste for the intake, do you mean if I resuse the old gasket? Would it be better just to replace the gasket? I see they are relatively cheap online.
3-When you say slide pins, what are you referring to? I never took apart an intake on a british car before so I just want to have as much info as possible! Thank you!
#15
Thanks Paul! So just a couple of questions.
1-You said not to unlock the car when removing the fuel pipe, do you mean opening the door or literally not having the car unlocked? I need to unlock it to open the hood so I am a bit confused .
2-You said silicone paste for the intake, do you mean if I resuse the old gasket? Would it be better just to replace the gasket? I see they are relatively cheap online.
3-When you say slide pins, what are you referring to? I never took apart an intake on a british car before so I just want to have as much info as possible! Thank you!
1-You said not to unlock the car when removing the fuel pipe, do you mean opening the door or literally not having the car unlocked? I need to unlock it to open the hood so I am a bit confused .
2-You said silicone paste for the intake, do you mean if I resuse the old gasket? Would it be better just to replace the gasket? I see they are relatively cheap online.
3-When you say slide pins, what are you referring to? I never took apart an intake on a british car before so I just want to have as much info as possible! Thank you!
1. Leave the car unlocked when the fuel pipe is off and you will be OK it is the the action of unlocking the car starts the pump.
2. I would use new gaskets I was under a time crunch so reused mine.
3. The slide pins are on the breaks nothing to do with the intake just saying that the silicon paste can be used in other places.
again sorry for the confusion here.
#16
Sorry for the confusion.
1. Leave the car unlocked when the fuel pipe is off and you will be OK it is the the action of unlocking the car starts the pump.
2. I would use new gaskets I was under a time crunch so reused mine.
3. The slide pins are on the breaks nothing to do with the intake just saying that the silicon paste can be used in other places.
again sorry for the confusion here.
1. Leave the car unlocked when the fuel pipe is off and you will be OK it is the the action of unlocking the car starts the pump.
2. I would use new gaskets I was under a time crunch so reused mine.
3. The slide pins are on the breaks nothing to do with the intake just saying that the silicon paste can be used in other places.
again sorry for the confusion here.
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ronbros (08-28-2017)
#17
#18
My 2012 XJ needed a new motor after a catastrophic pump failure on the interstate. I dumped it after the engine had been in and out twice. I'm still debating if I will replace it with another or go to another brand.
#19
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The new outlet pipe under the supercharger is redesigned top and bottom without seams which are the leak source along with the oring stations on the pipe intself. Do not reuse the sc lower intake gasket or any othe steel gasket. They are definitly 1 use and will leak. O rings are okay for reuse as long as not crushed, flatened. I use 3m silicone paste on eveything on the pump for ease of assembly on all the orings and includine the 4 bolts that go into the aluminum block as they can seize and snap off and i dont want to be the one to deal with that issue if i can prevent it. Since you have removed the pump again you should replaced the wp steel gaskets to the block for the afformentions issue. Oh and your next leak will be the heater pipe on the back of the block that contains a temp sensor and the throttle and heater core hose connections. that leak will be down he back of the engine and down the sides of the trans. Since you have gone this far you may just want to fully remove the sc and replace that pipe. it is a much bigger pain that what you have done so far. But you're already into soooooo.
Last edited by Brutal; 08-02-2018 at 09:42 AM.
#20
The new outlet pipe under the supercharger is redesigned top and bottom without seams which are the leak source along with the oring stations on the pipe intself. Do not reuse the sc lower intake gasket or any othe steel gasket. They are definitly 1 use and will leak. O rings are okay for reuse as long as not crushed, flatened. I use 3m silicone paste on eveything on the pump for ease of assembly on all the orings and includine the 4 bolts that go into the aluminum block as they can seize and snap off and i dont want to be the one to deal with that issue if i can prevent it. Since you have removed the pump again you should replaced the wp steel gaskets to the block for the afformentions issue. Oh and your next leak will be the heater pipe on the back of the block that contains a temp sensor and the throttle and heater core hose connections. that leak will be down he back of the engine and down the sides of the trans. Since you have gone this far you may just want to fully remove the sc and replace that pipe. it is a much bigger pain that what you have done so far. But you're already into soooooo.