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Not knowing if there is a failure in my Type 111 ABS, I would like to know if anyone has replaced the ABS with a booster system? If they have, was it a drop in, RHD or LHD, and parts from what vehicle?
That is exactly what I am thinking of doing, one of my first XJS's was Non-ABS and it was a very reliable system and left you in no doubt.
That if you needed the Brakes to Stop you in an emergency situation they would be there for you almost 100%
Not so with my ABS which has failed a couple of times, where there was a sudden and unexpected pull to the right, which very nearly Spun me off the Road.
Which has left me walking on 'Egg Shells' wondering if that will ever happen again.
If you have a look at my 'No ABS for 'Ice Princess' there are kindly provided diagrams to show you what you will need, where apart from some alterations
to the Plumbing, it looks to be an almost a virtual drop in
While some don't think its a good idea and have been trying to talk me out of it.
Just out of interest, what problems are you having that has got you wanting to change?
Thanks for a splendid answer. Will look up No Abs For Princess and go from there.
I am just fed up with the Jaguar braking system It all started with the removal of the right front caliber bolt, Which has not been removed and the inboard rear brakes and the removal of the cage! After reading about the ABS system and the loss of pressure and possible defective portioning valve and other defects in the ABS and then looking up cost of parts vs a booster system running about $150. I thought that might be the way to go. I don't know yet, I am still in the analysis stage. Candidly, I don't know if the ABS system worked or not. Prior to pad replacement the brakes seem fine. Stop the car without a problem. Maybe I'm borrowing trouble. Right now I am letting a shop have the pleasure of the four calipers and pads and the BOLT! Will keep you posted and thanks for your concern and input
Looked at the Ice Princess site and see the difficulties. Daim and Greg made very good points. Kinda like don't trade a headache for an upset stomach! The UK MOT is strikingly strict! Here in Texas they drive the car and check the outside lights and emission. No concern about originality or modifications. $35.00 and out the door! I did an annual reregistration and vehicle check in less than an hour and both places were five miles apart.
PS: They do want to check your insurance. Many uninsured motorists. Which increase insurance costs
Last edited by afterburner1; 08-22-2017 at 10:56 AM.
I think you are a little high on your estimate. There are boosters and master cylinder combination for as low as $125 on eBay. Haven't looked at the other parts. I would think the whole job could be inside 250 quid. Think the hardest part is joining the booster to the brake pedal and getting the proper match. I still have three calipers to change and then bleed the brakes. Once that is done, I will attended to my ABS. This might be just an academic discussion. Right now I'm going back to my Marmite on toast and my jar of bitters! Cheers!
My 95 ABS would rip the steering wheel out of your hands at low speeds. Pulled fuse 11 and it's been great ever since... no ABS but with boost.
Hi Jagsandmgs
That is what I had to do to get home when the same thing happened to me, as once you pull that Fuse out you disconnect the ABS part of the System.
Having said that, I did replace the Valve Block on the ABS, so that it was working properly again.
Because if you had an accident and someone found that you'd pulled out the ABS fuse, then that probably would go down too well, if it came to making a Claim.
Fuse 11 puts a whole different light on this subject. I was unaware the ABS, except for boost, would be disabled. I did not want to go into a major expense repairing the ABS system and its associate parts search. Houston does not have severe winters and I seldom drive in the rain, so ABS is nice but not a necessity as far as I am concerned. Boost is what I wanted and lucky 11 will give me that...YEAH!
Make sure your garage know how to remove pads and calipers properly ie they must NOT push back the pads unless the bleed valves are open, to allow to fluid to flow out of the caliper and never to let the fluid get pushed back up the system.
Secondly, that they know exactly how to bleed the Teves ABS system properly.
The third thing is that Fuse 11 may disable your ABS in terms of valve operation but it won't preclude the valve potentially getting jammed through microscopic debris getting trapped and jamming the valves causing one wheel to not brake and thus the car to dive across. So, I would suggest that removing Fuse 11 doesn't mitigate all the potential problems.
Thanks Paul; all good suggestions. I plan to give written instructions on your ideas. But, who knows if they will be followed. My most concern is they use Dot 4 brake fluid and I will supply that. I am not that familiar with the ABS and don't see how debris can enter a closed system if care was taken before pulling the fuse on the ABS.
Thanks Paul; all good suggestions. I plan to give written instructions on your ideas. But, who knows if they will be followed. My most concern is they use Dot 4 brake fluid and I will supply that. I am not that familiar with the ABS and don't see how debris can enter a closed system if care was taken before pulling the fuse on the ABS.
How long have you owned the car? Do ypu know if the brake fluid was changed on a 24 month interval? If not, you may have rust in the system aka debris Paul was taking about. I've nearly got my unit apart. Just need to take the lid off. My car has has brake fluid changed every 18 (!) Months until I parked it up for restoration work. There still was the need to replace the front calipers... So even 18 months is enough to accumulate rust in the system, especially as brake fluid is hygroscopic.
Sending Brake Fluid the Wrong way up to the Master Cylinder/Actuator regardless of whether the ABS is active or not.
Like for instance levering back the Calipers to put in New Brake Pads, without the Bleed Nipples Open.
Is an Absolute No! No! and potentially the quickest way to do some Serious Damage to the Master Cylinder/Actuator.
As is not Changing the Brake Fluid on a regular basis, as it can absorb Water and then this can happen (and spare parts are NLA)
A Rusty Valve from the Valve Block of the ABS
Rusty ABS Valve
Blocked and Rusty ABS Valve from the Valve Block of a Teves Master Cylinder/Actuator
A result of Not Changing your Brake Fluid on a Regular Basis, where water has been absorbed into the Brake Fluid and caused Rust.
08-22-2017, 12:11 AM
