1983 XJS v12 to Cummins build
#81
Ditto. I welded up my 16 cm3 turbine housing to change the volute injection angles onto the turbine wheel. Made the Holset H1C act similar to a late model powerstroke. It idles at 700 rpm and by the time the throttle comes in the boost is building up to 10 psi at 1000 rpm and tops out at 24 psi at 2500 rpm. The VE pump start pulling fuel around there with a 3200 rpm spring. I have a 60 hp fuel pin and also extended the timing advance range by adding spacers the pistons throw distance. The engine doesn't smoke under normal hard acceleration conditions. The 47rh isn't a very robust design for torque so it's best to take it easy on the trans when it's trying to shift. It's basically a 727 Torqueflight with an OD module on the back and a lock up converter on the front. I don't think loaded torque will hurt the rear. I'd be more concerned about bouncing a tire and that shock load causing problems. The drive shaft will be fun since the 47rh uses 1350 series U joints. It also uses 1/2" cooling lines which were a mother to fabricate.
#83
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#92
You shouldn't need a pump at the tank, especially if you use the stock lift pump on the engine. The VE doesn't like much input pressure, 7-10 psi tops. The injection pump has it's own vane pump inside and will run at 0 psi of input pressure but it's not happy making power there. The VE also has an internal pressure regulator. On my auto installs I left the stock tank in place and just added a return. I did run 3/8" feed and 5/16" return lines. Used the green plastic coated brake tubing as it gives the best seal. A leak on the suction side will cause the pump to lose prime overnight or quicker.
#94
Suction from the lift pump, same as carbed cars with mechanical engine pumps. The filter should be on the intake side between the lift pump and the VE pump. The P pumps used a higher volume lift pump but I don't think you'll need one and they are expensive ($150ish with the conversion kit) vs a diaphragm lift pump ($60). The stock lift pump should also have a manual primer lever. If it has resistance you can use it to prime the VE pump. If not, you'll need to rotate the crank to get the lever off the cam lobe so it will work. Post up a pic of what you have on the VE pump side of the engine for better advice. The fuel system was probably the simplest to sort out.
#95
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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my fuel system has a small gravity fill from the main cell,its a slosh tank, below the upper cell, mounted behind the battery, so its always full,, any bubbles returns to main cell bypass line,in pic.
also my setup is for gasoline, no reason it wouldnt work for diesel.
i happen to run 45psi for EFI, but VE low volume system around 4.5psi.
if you over pressure them they just shut off pump, holding the plunger off charge.
as you know never let a diesel run out of fuel, becomes a PITA.
i use a 1/2" inlet lines, and 3/8 return, but thats overkill! unless you runnin 3 turbos or sumthin silly!
#97
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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i use one on my GMC diesel suburban and its on continuous when key on, no shut off for pressure build up, its only 5psi,, never had an air leak since.
pump is from auto zone, same as factory GM dieseils.
anyway just get all together and sort out the small BS as you go.
Last edited by ronbros; 09-19-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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Greg in France (09-21-2017)
#98
Update!
Did the tappet cover gasket.
Reinstalled my VE pump and bumped the timing 1/8 while it was out and easy to do.
Managed to easy out a busted bolt in my head from the junk yard..
Replaced rear main seal(s)
Replaced lift pump gasket
replaced oil filter gasket and oil cooler gasket
replaced thermostat housing gasket and water pump gasket, pump looks amazing.
replaced thermostat
Engine is almost done. Just need to fix the T stat housing and do the front crank seal since i popped a hole in my replacement while seating it.
I have a triple disc converter on the way. going to need to start working on the trans lines/stuff soon.
Did the tappet cover gasket.
Reinstalled my VE pump and bumped the timing 1/8 while it was out and easy to do.
Managed to easy out a busted bolt in my head from the junk yard..
Replaced rear main seal(s)
Replaced lift pump gasket
replaced oil filter gasket and oil cooler gasket
replaced thermostat housing gasket and water pump gasket, pump looks amazing.
replaced thermostat
Engine is almost done. Just need to fix the T stat housing and do the front crank seal since i popped a hole in my replacement while seating it.
I have a triple disc converter on the way. going to need to start working on the trans lines/stuff soon.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (09-21-2017)
#100