I think that my car hasn't EGR valve. Anybody can see in the attached picture if there is EGR valve??

 

Nope ........... it's about the size of a half height beer can that would be on top between the throttle cable bellcrank and the fuel rail . Otherwise you have a very clean engine compartment . You might be able to get the IAC valve off ( down in the valley in your pic ) with a shaved down thin wall socket before removing the throttle body if you want to go for that gasket . It is a 5.5 mm if I remember . The bolts are loctited in so it may crack the socket but it's worth a try . Is yours a Manual Transmission ?

 

You have no EGR valve...so much for that.

id hunt for vacuum leaks with the cigar. If there’s a leak at the IACV (which I see is on the recently replaced list) you’ll see the smoke.

 

Thanks you Lady Penelope,

I know where is the IACV, but not the EGR valve. Is possible car hasn't this EGR valve??

thanks

 

I would also love to know why you have two cables going to your throttle body. I know it’s OEM, but I only have the one on the right side on your picture.

 

you do not have an EGR valve

the smoke test did reveal that the o-ring at my IACV was not sealing properly.

 

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk/part/JLM11490

 

Here are the diagram and picture showing where the EGR valve is and how it looks like.


Some X300 sold in other regions don't have it fitted.

 

For the not lucky to have a Supercharged model and is normally aspirated it looks like this with no tubing to get around the SC intercooler

 

Dear friends,

I have followed your recommendation of replace the fuel pump to check if this is the problem of the stalling...

I have read a message from the forum of someone that explain how to change the fuel pump without remove the tank.

So i have done a big hole in the metal over rear seat, under the parcel panel.

There i could see the evap unit, but when i have remove the ring that support the evap unit...SURPRISE!!! there wan't any fuel pump there as you can see in the pictures..

So, i have done a hard work for nothing...i don't know where is the bitch fuel pump!!

 

Follow that wire coming out of the white connector down into the fuel tank and it will terminate at the pump. Carefull!!! Your Jag now has a big jagged hole over the tank...you may cut yourself!

SMH

Here you'll find pics of the pump in-situ: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...quired-163902/

 

......What do the 2 wires lead to ? The white connector is for the fuel pump , only the flange is backwards in the pic as the connector faces car aft.

 

Is possible to replace fuel pump from the hole?? i think that it is an impossible mission...

In addition, i have bought a OEM fuel pump and it has many small pieces and i have not got a diagram about how assemble every part.

I can't understand how jaguar did it so difficult!!

Thanks my friends

 

Anybody know how i must assemble this part from the fuel pump??

thanks

 

THe short hose and two clamps are for the evap flange at the top of the tank. The inlet filter in the bag just snaps on the pump inlet, which likely has a vinyl or rubber cap on it right now, though it's hard to make out with all the reflections off the bag. Pull your old pump out and all should become clear to you.

Have you looked at any of the pictures contained in the link I posted in post#31?

 

Dear friends,

first, thanks you very much for your help.

This weekend i replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter thanks to your help and following your instructions.

But i have bad news

After i replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter with a hard work, i go out with the car in the hope that the problem would have been solved.

As the problem usually occurs when the engine is hot (although not always), I drove about 30 kms when suddenly, while going to about 120 kms / h, again the revolutions fell to 0 rpm and the car walked about 100 meters without response of the accelerator, although when i pushed the gas pedal, the car made a noise as when it was revolutionized, but the needle of the revolutions did not move until the car stalled.

After, i tried to start it, and it needed 2-3 tries until the car started again.

It is very very very frustrating because the list of the new parts grows.
Until now, i have replaced all these:

- 6 engine coils news
- 6 new spark plugs
- Crank position sensor (new)
- COolant temperature sensor (new): LHE1600AA
- A new MAF (with the new MAF the idle was more unstable and stalls more easily).
- A used Throttle position sensor from other jaguar x300
- a new Idle control air valve
- A new fuel pump (i bought it in SNG barratt)
- A new fuel filter
- A new fuel pump relay

Any idea??
I'm going to go crazy with this car. I love and hate him

 

I have a 96 in my shop that is doing the same thing. There is no rime or reason to the stalling I can have it running at idle and in park and it just cuts out then restarts right away, and can run for 3 hours or 5 minutes before it cuts out. A faulty fuel pump or relay would make it loose power slowly then quit and be very hard to start or would not start at all. I have seen faulty coils spike the ecm and cause the engine to cut out. My customer has a 97 as well and I am going to see if he will let me swap the ecm out and see if the problem moves to the other car. I will post if I find anything that might help you.

 

Is the RPM gauge on zero before the actual engine . This may be seen with the alternator light coming on but then it may have a built in delay before it shows But a instantaneous gauge to monitor would be the actual voltage meter showing battery voltage of 12.77 different then the charging voltage of 13.5 and above . You'll have to premark the 2 needle spots engine off , engine on with tape because in the heat of battle you wouldn't have time to discern the difference .

This would point to the crankshaft position sensor circuit ( s ) if the RPM gauge beats the engine to zero .

 

Dear Lady Penelope,

I don't understand your last message very well...

Yesterday, the problem occurs while engine ran to 3.000 rpm. From 3.000 rpm fell to 0 rpm, like i had turned the key. I pushed the gas pedal and i felt a small pulling and i could hear as if the engine was revoluzionated but the rpm needle was to 0 rpm. The car ran without stall until car is almost stopped, in that moment car stalls. After, car won't start and i have to tries several times to get that the engine start.

thanks

 

I suspect it has to do with harness/electrical issues, like loose or poor connection somewhere causing sudden loss of signal.