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For bringing this issue to the forums attention. As they both said, and I confirmed, Jag will only sell you the complete drive shaft for $1500-2000 even though the SGF PN# GAP01-003 is shared with cars like the,
ZL1 Camaro
Chevy SS
Porsche Cayenne
BMW e46 M3
But because Jag typically sells parts as assemblies (Actually very smart on the business end) they don't even list any separate parts for the driveline other than the bolts the fasten it to the trans and diff.
The best part # I could find is Patricks SGF GAP01-003, this translates to
6 hole,
on 110mm circle,
with 38mm deep mounting holes.
Or an exact fit to all 2010 on Supercharged XF and XJ Jags.
If you read the above posting from Patrickw813 and Silver XFR or as I did lurk the BMW blogs, this is basically a normal wear item and needs replacement I'd say every 80kmi, tell signs = driveline vibration, clunking, no signs at all, or even this can happen.
Needless to say DON'T go cheap on one either, because there are some very cheap ones in cyber land to be had.
Got mine here for $95
$95 for the part Genuine SGF , $100 to install it. $500 to rebuild and balance your current drive shaft. They also service diffs.
I'm still in the on the fence about me or them doing the install, but given the fact the exhaust has to be dropped and they have a lift, I don't know the condition of the center support, and I've done my share of U joints we'll see. I'll keep the post updated though.
One positive note, my parts guy at Alvarez Jag said he's never sold an XF driveline..
when you say driveline vibration, would that also be shudders felt at idle? sometimes when im at a stop light, i get slight vibrations and shudders
That's much more likely to be worn engine or transmission mounts. The rear transmission mount is super easy to change on a lift with a transmission jack, the driver's side engine mount is tight and frustrating but possible, the passenger side engine mount requires a drain/refill of the AC system as the AC pump has to be moved to access the mount and the pipes are solid. Thanks, Jaguar.
when you say driveline vibration, would that also be shudders felt at idle? sometimes when im at a stop light, i get slight vibrations and shudders
Jumping in on your thread Bigg Will!
When I replaced the flex joint, I also replaced the rear transmission mount in my car. The original mount was completely torn and I assume this (along with the torn guibo) was the reason for my driveline vibration. The part number for the mount is as follows:
C2D38505
When I replaced this mount and the flex joint, I also changed my transmission fluid and filter along with my differential fluid. After completing this full driveline service, I have no more vibrations at idle or in motion!
Edit: I did not rebuild my original driveshaft when replacing the flex joint. My local dealer inspected the unit and said there is no excess play at all.
Last edited by patrickw813; 12-01-2017 at 01:21 PM.
I used rubber blocks under the plastic transmission oil pan on a transmission jack with the car on a lift. If you're planning this with the car up on stands on a driveway, I'd consider a block of wood to try and spread the load of the weight across as much of the pan as possible, they're probably not the strongest. Or plan for a transmission oil change, although I'm not sure I'd want to refill the transmission oil in this situation.
Rear CV bolts and a plate I made at the job to jack up the trans buy the pan.
No bolts came with the flex joint Dave, so I bought hex and allens, the drive shaft to diff bolts are Torx, I bought new ones but I'm going to get allens to try there also.
Did you remove the driveshaft from the diff or did you have a shop do it? The service manual talks about use of a special tool to remove it and I wondered how necessary it is.
Did you remove the driveshaft from the diff or did you have a shop do it? The service manual talks about use of a special tool to remove it and I wondered how necessary it is.
Okay, so I did it today. Not a hard job at all, but kinda involved and yes it was time, not a night and day difference but DEFINITELY a difference.
The parts I started out with, Flex joint, Trans mount and some other bolts since Jag loves to use the dreaded torx bolts
Your going to need to get the car up on either rams or jack stands, You will also need to activate the emergency parking brake release since to remove all of the flex joint bolts the drive shaft must be able to turn. One or both of the rear wheels need to be off the ground (Yes its an open diff) to turn the drive shaft.
DO NOT START THE CAR WITH THE DRIVE SHAFT DIS CONNECTED.
Flex joint, Trans mount and Trans cross member.
The plate I use to jack against oil and trans pans. It only needs to be hand tight jacked against the pan. Once the trans cross member is removed it will drop about an inch.
Un bolt the cross member (4 bolt to body , 2 to trans).
Flex joint exposed, this also let me look at the drive shaft it total by using a mirror and flashlight to look down the heat shield. Yes it was time for a new flex joint.
The trans mount was also shot.
The rest of the drive shaft including the center bearing and rear Lobro cv, as long as the lobro cv remains sealed its usually good for 200kmi. The center bearing I may do away with when the time comes to replace it, for what jag wants for a replacement full drive shaft you can get a custom 1 piece carbon fiber drive shaft, so that might happen.
Before you separate the shaft from the trans mark the drive shaft yoke and trans output shaft, you want this to go back EXACTLY the same way you took it apart. Note the arrow on the flex joint points at a flange.
These bolts are on tight, the bolt side is 18mm, the nut side is 17mm always if possible loosen or tighten on the nut side and hold on the bolt side. I braced the wrench against the body and loosen with a 1/2in ratchet with a 12in cheater to undo the drive shaft bolts.
Removing the trans flange bolts requires 2 wrenches due to no room. once all the bolts are out push (Collapse) the drive shaft, it's a tight pull but the flex joint will come out though the skinny part. Put a little grease on the center of the new flex joint to help the bearing it rides on seat smoothly.
The old and new. The old one was date stamped may of 2009, so it's original. Note the bolt holders are staggered to protrude and recess, the protrudes fit into machined hols on the trans side.
After 9 years and 87kmi.
Put the the flex joint in with the arrows pointing at a flange, IMPORTANT the Trans flange is machined to receive the barrel of the bolt holder, so put all the bolts in but snug the trans flange bolts first so the all show this much of the bolt holder, then tighten the trans flange bolts and no bolt holder should show, then tighten the driveshaft flange bolts.
Installed the trans side will show no bolt holder sleeve. The drive shaft side will. Note the mark on the drive yoke and trans output shaft.
As I said the trans mount was shot too. it's a simple 2 bolt to change part
To get the trans cross member back in, mount it to the trans first then run the 2 front bolts 1/2 way in then by jockeying the jack and cross member you should be able to get the back 2 bolts in. snug them down.
Use the 2 alignment holes on either side and a screw driver to align the trans cross member evenly between them, once its aligned tighten the bolts. That's it..Driver side here
Pass side here.
I would say Jag got this one right as the wear item in the drivetrain is easily serviceable, that said if your V8 Jag is
Over 6 years old
Tracked
Has over 70kmi
or you drive it like you stole it, you need to check your Flex Guibo..
Rear CV bolts and a plate I made at the job to jack up the trans buy the pan.
No bolts came with the flex joint Dave, so I bought hex and allens, the drive shaft to diff bolts are Torx, I bought new ones but I'm going to get allens to try there also.
Jag actually used the best hardware, so I re used it.
What are the parts number and where did you get it from please thank you
Its been discontinued by that manufacturer, but Porsche, Chevy, and bmw share the same part number. The part number for Porsche is 7l0521403. It’s the exact same one we need on the 5.0 SC engines for our jags. Some even have the original part number SGF-GAP stamped on there. You can find these anywhere... eBay, amazon, ECS Tuning, etc. I started a thread on this over on the X351 forums
11-30-2017 | 08:24 PM
Replacement Driveshaft Flex joint or Guibo (Gwee-bo)
