Now that the drama with the rings was past, I could move on to the heads.

But first, husband wanted to measure the distance from the deck to the top of the pistons in various places. Hence the numbers.

After more research, the FEL-PRO guy recommended these head gaskets. PN 1003. Pretty, aren't they.

These will result in a compression ratio of 9:1.

After that it was simply a matter of set the heads on and bolt them down.

Husband got some thread sealant for bolts that penetrate the water jacket.



Bolts that don't got a treatment of Lucas assembly lube, as recommended by the bolt manufacturer, ARP.




I neglected to get a picture of them (tsk), but the washer position is critical according to ARP, the champhered side of the washer goes next to the bolt head which has a boss to accept it.

Below is the torquing order, probably for most V8 heads:



Torque starts out at 30 pounds in this order for all bolts, then 50 pounds for all bolts, then 70 pounds for all bolts, all in this order.

And, finally after all these delays, is the block with heads.


A cam is in the pipeline somewhere. I imagine it will arrive when I see the truck pull up to the door.

This seemed like a good time to clean up the timing cover and oil pan.

Don't tell husband I did this.
(';')

 

Wow good progress! Ive been away for a bit, I will have to back track and catch up.

Thread lubing while torqing seems to be one of those religious topics like oil, tyres, spark plugs and fuel grades. You would think ARP would be a good source of advice , they must have seen and done eveything in that area :-)

 

Hi Elinor, I haven't visited this thread since early December. Lots going on in your shed.
Keep the pictures and updates coming.
Love the work so far.

 

ARP are the bolt manufacturers so I'm sure they have allowed for the lube in their torque figures.

 

I recall that wet vs dry torque numbers were a topic on J-L at one time.


Just for the fun, I looked in my Jeep's factory manual. I found values for each. Actually, not that big a difference, I think.


In my view, clean sharp threads are of more import.


My machinist son prefers the old tech beam type torque wrench to the Set a value by vernirer scale units. Guess what is inside the latter!


Carl.

 

Thanks, Guys,
My thinking is, If ya follow directions, especially Published/Printed directions (of which I keep copies), and ya have a problem, then ya have at least a leg to stand on when it comes to resolution.

However, if ya have yer own "better" ideas, and there's a problem because ya Didn't follow directions, even if the problem has little of nothing to do with that component, ya got Nuthin because they can wiggle out of responsibility!

They might wiggle out anyway, but now I Know I did it correctly.

And, things being as they are, being a mere woman would go against me in any case.
That's why I like detailed documentation.
(';')

 

No. I've seldom had an issue with following the instructions. Only in rare instances, are they askew.


And, if one veers with a "better" idea, it best be quite sound.


Had to laugh at the "parts washer" !!! Role reversal ?


That is a beautiful engine. It oughta run like "stink'.


Carl

 

I should have been more precise there; those pans were pretty well cleaned with degreaser before I put them in the dishwasher. That was just to shine them up before painting.

I do quite a lot of things that aren't the "normal" role for a wife, Carl.
But I never claimed nor did I ever want to be a normal wife. That's probably why he married me.
(';')

 

More humor!!!


Just what is a "normal" wife ???? Or, for that matter, a "normal" husband !!!!


Just kidding as tot he parts. True, by most standards, quite clean going in.


Old tale: Circa 1958, I built a T Ford "speedster". Mostly from cast off junk. At last the time came to fire the engine. Too tight for hand crank or starter !!! Tied it to my company Chevvy and perched my dear departed on the temporary "seat". Instructed her on the brake and clutch. A "normal: wife would have vehemently refused !!!
Dirt roads. I could not understand why it did not fire up !!!! Voila, she applied the brakes to keep the speed under control !!!! The skinny tires merely skidded along !!! Try again, more instruction !!! Yahoo, it fired up !! Sounded great. Straight pipe exhaust !! But, not quite right. Only 3 firing??? Fixed, but that is another story. My great compliments of appreciation to my not "normal: gorgeous wife !!!


Carl

 

i saw a person with a tee shirt that said ,"Normal people SCARE ME"

 

I've changed leaking freeze plugs in my work truck and it was not fun. So I glued these in with #2 Permatex.

It's one of those comforting familiar smells from my childhood.

I smeared some on all the plugs, threaded and press-in.




I used a large Cam Bearing Driver to insert the Cam plug, and a 1-1/8 inch socket for all the smaller block plugs.






Most tools around here have more than one purpose. Exceptions are specialized tools, none of which I needed for this job.

All finished.

(';')

 

Ingredients include:
2 quarts Assembly Lube
16 Roller Trunnion Rocker Arms
1 timing Chain:

We went over to the NAPA store in search of Assembly Lube (that LUCAS stuff of previous posts) in quantities larger than the half-pint bottle I had.

The nice old guy on duty today (Sunday) was Very helpful and knew Exactly what I wanted. He went to the Lubricants section and got a quart bottle of Power Punch (which I've never heard of before) and said, "We used to pre-lube our motorcycle chains in this. Put it in a pan and boil them up. It's good stuff."

I said,"That's exactly what I'm doing with a new timing chain and full roller rocker arms. That's why I need so much. Maybe I'll take 2 quarts, enough to cover the rockers too."

Nice, knowledgeable, experienced old guy. He's an asset to the store.

First step, empty the Assembly Lube into a dedicated pan large enough to hold all components.

Husband had a large kettle in the shop that was *Perfect* for this! They all fit on one layer on the bottom. You probably don't need a kettle so deep but this was available.

Add 16 Rocker arms; I used COMP Cams, Ultra Pro Mag, Roller Trunnion 1.5 (known to be legal for this engine).




Add timing chain and apply heat.

You probably won't ever want to eat anything cooked in the vessel after this.

I've never done this before so I started the burner on Simmer, which will boil water, and I'll leave it there a couple or 3 or 4 hours till it's good and hot. Then I'll let it cool in the kettle overnight. Air should be forced all out of the nooks and crannies by then, replaced by lube.

And, as the stove is taken up with my current project, husband (like he needs an excuse) went for Pizza&Beer.
EDIT: UPDATE:
Next morning after parts are well infused, drain well.

Parts are now ready for use.
(';')

 

This thread could be a update for Trade Schools curriculums everywhere - "Kitchen appliances and their essential place in modern mechanics"

 

1. Is it only my machine ? Elinor's posts have wide spots of nothing!


2. brewing motorcycle chains ! One of my uncles was an enthusiast as well as usi8ng one in early days as a USPS "special Delivery" man. He and his pals had many "brews" for the chains of their Chiefs and Harley's. I, much to young to "get" the point.


3. Yes, at least a decade later, gasket sealers became known to me and my "T" and "A" guys, No, not that meaning. Fords!!!! Permatex Red. Permatex black. Different uses. And Indian head shellac. In a bottle with a top that included a "dauber".


Carl

 

Thank you, Steve,
Merely using what's easily (and cheaply) available.

Thank you, Carl, I think it's your machine.
This guy was Much too young to have been your uncle! (teehee)

Parts all done this morning, draining nicely.
Off to work this frosty AM..........
(';')

 

"Thank you, Steve,
Merely using what's easily (and cheaply) available."

my most common small parts washing tray is a retired scanpan baking dish :-)

 

All engine work stops (currently doing battle with oil pump;Nothing is straightforward around here) until I figure out why my brakes are suddenly like stepping on a plum, and fluid seems to evaporate from the reservoir, and I get it fixed.

It was *Very* interesting coming back from town. Brakes wouldn't even hold the car against an idle at a red light.

Oh joy.....
(';')

 

Should be able to find the source of the leak.. hope it is MC as that is easiest. Rear not so good...

 

Well, Fellas, after an interruption of nearly 5 years, during which time the World seems to have gone all wonky, the time has come to really get with the program. Beecause, during my Routine Maintenance the other day, I noticed I need, not only a new air cleaner element, but a new engine to put under it.

This is the pre-filter, caked with oil and dirt, especially at the snorkel entrance.


This is the other side. Not much better.
But notice the Inside of the foam looks really pretty good.



This froth is what I found when I took the element out. Element looks Really good, because the foam pre-filter seems to have stopped almost all of the oil! There is also a pool of oil around the outer depression which doesn't show very well. I won't be bothering to put in a new element, merely wash the pre-filter, oil it well and slap this back together until the engine is pulled.

For those who may be Lurking and don't know the significance of this find, these are the Classic symptoms of Blow-By. Which is, again for those Lurking who may not have ever heard the term, a condition of an engine wherein the Compression Rings are so worn, that they no longer seal against the cylinder walls to confine gasses to the combustion chamber, and allow them to Blow By.

This pressurizes the crank case, which causes said gas to be forced out of every escape route it can find. (It also contaminates the oil Very quickly, which you can tell because IT STINKS!) The quickest way out is through the breathers. But also valve cover gaskets may appear to be leaking.

On some Elderly engines, one such vent hose comes out of the top of one of the valve covers, passes through a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve (PCV) into the bottom of the carburetor to be burned during combustion. The other one comes out the top of the other valve cover into the side of the air cleaner. The idea is to contain any unburned gasses and just run then through again. If everything else is working as it should, this arrangement is successful.

Nix's odometer only shows 107215 miles, which I *assume* was Zeroed at the time of conversion in 1986. That's what I would have done. I'm therefore thinking the "original" build of this engine was done "on the cheap" with the absolute cheapest rock bottom parts to be had. Cast iron rings come to mind first, which I've only heard of and never seen. However, oil pressure is still good and there are no incorrect noises.

I do drive fast and hard, but still, any "modern" engine with reasonable care should last more than 100k, especially with modern oil. I may get curious one day and take this apart just to see how loose the pistons are and how much ring ridge there is. Or I might just donate it to our friend Alfredo The Junk Man as it comes out.

Anyway, today I Unburied the engine I built up earlier in this thread but had to give up as other Stuff elbowed its way to the front of the line. But this winter has to be the time, before the CAT doesn't catch all this anymore and it doesn't pass SMOG; Which is due May 15, 2023!


5 years collection of dust on the trash bag, right where I left it.



AMAZING! I put it away covered in oil, not a speck of rust anywhere.

First thing, I need to clean it up and paint the block. I have the paint already, instructions say to clean with a Water Soluble cleaner, which the paint company will gladly sell me, and rinse with water.
Naa, that's why I bought a case of Oil Eater.

To Be Continued.....
(';')

 

I just read through this whole thread, a beautiful job and the details are spot-on. I am anxious to follow the remainder of your build and installation, not to mention first impressions on the road.

Dave