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This started a few weeks ago, and has progressively gotten worse. When I hit the brakes it is now pulling left pretty hard, depending on how hard I hit the brakes. I'll start by examining the pads and rotors, possibly bleeding.....
Pulling to the left would suggest the front right caliper isn't working properly. Either not at all or to a low degree. Can be a sticky piston, a collapsed hose or if ABS a non working connection...
Take the front right wheel off and check for function. Or head to a local brake balance tester and check.
Hi!
Your problem could be a cracked, worn brake hose.
It will bulge or balloon out when pressure is applied will not
apply pressure to the right caliper. Or your right caliper needs
renewal.
I'd start by checking the sliders on the caliper are not siezed first.
Remove the pads and you should be able to move the caliper back and forth freely, if you cant then the sliders are full of crap and need taking out, cleaning and greasing.
I'd start by checking the sliders on the caliper are not siezed first.
Remove the pads and you should be able to move the caliper back and forth freely, if you cant then the sliders are full of crap and need taking out, cleaning and greasing.
AFAICS we still do not know that model or year. The calipers, on pre facelifts anyway, do not have sliders; they are the piston each side type.
The 'could be' list includes many possibilities but my money is on a RF caliper, probably seized, going along for the ride while all the others do all the work. So, I'd begin with inspection of the caliper.....and be prepared to go further. Depending on history, mileage, and prior care it wouldn't be unexpected to discover several areas needing attention on a 24 year old car.
(I this scenario it doesn't take much to nudge me into a 'do it all, do it once, do it right' frame of mind and just press on with a well deserved system overhaul. But, spending other peoples' money is always easy )
The XJS always had fixed calipers...except the rear calipers of outboard brake cars, which were sliding type
I want to thank all of you for your responses.
I didn't realize that my car description and signature wasn't showing up.
The car is a 94, 2+2, V12.
I'll tear into it this weekend, and let you know the results.
A 1994 should have the very late XJ40/X300 ABS with a pump and block integrated into one unit. More reliable and they work with a brake servo. So if the vin ends with a higher number than 179737, then the ABS unit is different.
A 1994 should have the very late XJ40/X300 ABS with a pump and block integrated into one unit. More reliable and they work with a brake servo. So if the vin ends with a higher number than 179737, then the ABS unit is different.
Since it appears that your Brake Master Cylinder Actuator is the same as mine, then you need to be careful that you don't send Brake Fluid the Wrong way up the System
As any microscopic particles of crud could block up one or more of the Valves although it could get even worse than that
For if you or the previous owner haven't changed the Brake Fluid on a regular basis, then Water in the Brake Fluid can block the Valves with Rust
If you don't like watching 'Horror Films' then you may want to look through your Fingers or hide behind the Sofa before viewing the following Photo: (You have been Warned!)
Rusty Valves in the Valve Block of a Brake Master Cylinder Actuator of an XJS
This Valve from the Valve Block of the Brake Master Cylinder Actuator was completely Blocked with Rust
This Valve Block was off the Brake Master Cylinder Actuator of my Car 'Cherry Blossom' which had only done 25,000 Miles from New!
Mind you She had been standing outside unused for 14 years which certainly didn't help!
And you were thinking 'Alien' was Scary!
Hopefully yours will be ok but one Blocked Valve can be enough to have your Car pull left or right without any warning, as it tries to ****** the Wheel out of your hand
So just a little something for you to keep in mind, in case you might get tempted to lever the Caliper Pistons back without leaving the Bleed Nipple open!
Just as bad could be a Broken Wire inside the Valve Block of the Brake Master Cylinder Actuator, which again could have your Car pull to the left or right
But try not to get Paranoid about it, as its a fairly easy fix 'in the scheme of things' which will just cost you a couple of bucks to sort out
So lets not even go there for the Moment until at least you have made sure that your Calipers and Brake Pads are not Sticking
Last edited by orangeblossom; 03-23-2018 at 02:25 AM.
My 1995 XJS Vin # SAJNX2740SC198197 also pulls to the left when braking. It's quite a pull but it doesn't take a lot of effort to hold the steering wheel to keep it straight. I already replaced the front calipers pads and rotors and the system seemed to bleed ok so I am thinking the hoses are ok but maybe you don't see the hose issue when bleeding? I also swapped sides of the front wheels so it's not the tires. From this thread I have noted to check the suspension bushing and rear calipers...and maybe the hoses? Plus possibly, now the valve block. I think one of those is about $1800 if I remember correctly if I have to replace it. Could it be a steering issue? Although it seems to go straight under normal driving when I let go the wheel.
Appreciate any feedback/ on how to best narrow it down other wise I guess i'll replace parts from cheapest to expensive order.