Rear Bulb Failure light + no running lights
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So I soldered those three wires together, I got the right running light to work for about 30 seconds, then tried reseating the left harness, and now both are out again. I'm betting a 12 volt potential for the right running light, and I measured again 8.5 volts to the left, and no wires visibly broken.
It seems strange that I'm getting exactly the same voltage reading, 8.5 volts, as last time.
I cleaned out the locking mechanism and noticed that the motor would not open it when it was depressed too much. I could not however, figure out how to split the plastic box with the motor.
It seems strange that I'm getting exactly the same voltage reading, 8.5 volts, as last time.
I cleaned out the locking mechanism and noticed that the motor would not open it when it was depressed too much. I could not however, figure out how to split the plastic box with the motor.
Last edited by elvinjones; 12-08-2014 at 11:45 PM.
#24
So I soldered those three wires together, I got the right running light to work for about 30 seconds, then tried reseating the left harness, and now both are out again. I'm betting a 12 volt potential for the right running light, and I measured again 8.5 volts to the left, and no wires visibly broken.
It seems strange that I'm getting exactly the same voltage reading, 8.5 volts, as last time.
I cleaned out the locking mechanism and noticed that the motor would not open it when it was depressed too much. I could not however, figure out how to split the plastic box with the motor.
It seems strange that I'm getting exactly the same voltage reading, 8.5 volts, as last time.
I cleaned out the locking mechanism and noticed that the motor would not open it when it was depressed too much. I could not however, figure out how to split the plastic box with the motor.
If you just soldered the 2 broken ends together, you have just added a rigid part to an already weakened wire.
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elvinjones (12-09-2014)
#25
Yes it was a bit of a dumb move... I rearranged the wires further along the trunk. On a visual check and a medium thorough handling check almost all the way from the gas tank to the trunk opening mechanism, wires look good. I'll check more today if it isn't raining, but please chime in if you think there's something worthwhile to check beyond fuses and trunk wires.
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Really want to check this but it's just pitch black with flooding everywhere where I am in California right now...
Another comment that I will make is that the stereo and driver's side door/window buttons get quite warm after driving for a while. I'll check for a ground there.
Another comment that I will make is that the stereo and driver's side door/window buttons get quite warm after driving for a while. I'll check for a ground there.
It should not take too long and it costs nothing but time. Then you can at least rule them out of the equation if it does not resolve the issue(s).
I would then be checking for continuity in the wires. Again, only cost is time.
I would also invest in a power probe, don't have to be an expensive one, just capable of powering up a component. They also make fuse checking quick and easy.
If the above don't work, then it can get a bit more involved/ expensive...
checking switches, relays, ECU`s etc...
But the above approach has served me well over the years.
Read up on the principles of automotive electrics, once understood things may become a little clearer.
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elvinjones (12-29-2014)
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Have you ever resolved this issue ? I had accidentally cut into the wrong wires in my 2003 super v8 , and they touched while the battery was still connected and it blew a bulb. Now i hate myself for forgetting to disconnect the battery. I replaced the bulb but now I have no running lights . I checked all the fuses and the relays all are good. So my next step is to have my SCLM repaired because I have no idea what else it could be at this point.
#32
97xj6lucy ,
Hang on with the SLCM replacement . Note the pics are for the X308 , correct ? Identify which bulbs are out like the running lights or stop lights . Just click 2 times on the pics for expanded view .
Editing
Thanks , Parker
Hang on with the SLCM replacement . Note the pics are for the X308 , correct ? Identify which bulbs are out like the running lights or stop lights . Just click 2 times on the pics for expanded view .
Editing
Thanks , Parker
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-24-2018 at 03:19 PM.
#33
It's the running lights , the brake lights work fine .
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Thank you for all your assistance, I'll try looking at the wires on the light switch , but to be honest the reason I think that its not something that simple is because this happened when I let to exposed wires touch while the battery was connected , and I also noticed in your diagram that the purple wires run to the sclm , so is it possible that it could be that or the body control module ? Or are you completely ruling out the security module ? The reason I ask is because I already have it removed and prepaid for the repair , they also do a free bench test , so if nothing is wrong I'll get a refund .
#36
Regardless as to whether something happened to the SCLM the blue colored running lights will still work independently of the purple wire stop lights . So before swapping the BCM check the ( I think it was the stalk ) and check the specific bulb ground as the bulb ground tie in points in the lamp assembly go bad . Do both left and right sides have the same failure ? The touching wires were after the BCM around the lamp assembly ?
See stalk switch pics with broken wires in this tread page 2 :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-193530/
See stalk switch pics with broken wires in this tread page 2 :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-193530/
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 03-24-2018 at 06:35 PM.
#37
Regardless as to whether something happened to the SCLM the blue colored running lights will still work independently of the purple wire stop lights . So before swapping the BCM check the ( I think it was the stalk ) and check the specific bulb ground as the bulb ground tie in points in the lamp assembly go bad . Do both left and right sides have the same failure ? The touching wires were after the BCM around the lamp assembly ?
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Thank you again for your help !This has to be the greatest community of enthusiasts ever .I don't know where I would be without this site . I'm going over your suggested thread now.
#40
I have inspected all the soldering points on the light switch . Everything looks just fine. So at this point have we at least narrowed it down to the BCM or the SCLM ? Or is it possible that when I let the live wires connect that I had damaged the light switch ? Thanks again for all help in advance!