Ignition system - occasional non-start
#1
Ignition system - occasional non-start
Was visiting the What did you do today on your X308 section but today it sends me back here. So I will ask and maybe the answer is here as well.
I'm working on the ignition system. It seemed like an occassional short in the key to starter system. It started mostly with occassional won't start. XJ8l 98..occassional became often..I have a second car for parts, so started with the key cylinder. Started the first time..and then..no. The feel of the key is correct..but something electronic is not. Starter sounded good, battery charging well..No codes, system check runs each time..
It seems wiser for me to reach out and ask what solutions have been found before going to the wiring book, and staying up all night following diagrams..so, what do you think?
___________________
1998 XJ8 Vanden Plas 4.0 litre
I'm working on the ignition system. It seemed like an occassional short in the key to starter system. It started mostly with occassional won't start. XJ8l 98..occassional became often..I have a second car for parts, so started with the key cylinder. Started the first time..and then..no. The feel of the key is correct..but something electronic is not. Starter sounded good, battery charging well..No codes, system check runs each time..
It seems wiser for me to reach out and ask what solutions have been found before going to the wiring book, and staying up all night following diagrams..so, what do you think?
___________________
1998 XJ8 Vanden Plas 4.0 litre
Last edited by GGG; 03-29-2018 at 02:16 AM. Reason: Amend thread title
#2
#3
Does the starter kick on? If so, does the engine crank over?
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
#4
If you get a consistent click on the starter relay I would look at the crankshaft sensor as this controls the ignition and injector timing a well as the command of the fuel pump staying on . If the CKPS does not see engine rotation it will turn off the pump by design . The CKPS does not always fail completely but partially giving no code . The ignition switch provides a ground to car frame for operation
#5
Does the starter kick on? If so, does the engine crank over?
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
#6
Does the starter kick on? If so, does the engine crank over?
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
I've had issues where I would turn the key over and the starter wouldn't even kick on, and they key ignition cylinder would lock up on position 2. It turned out that it was a faulty inertia switch. You could check that easily, by pulling back the passenger floor panel, and ensure the switch/button is in the down position by pressing on it.
#7
If you get a consistent click on the starter relay I would look at the crankshaft sensor as this controls the ignition and injector timing a well as the command of the fuel pump staying on . If the CKPS does not see engine rotation it will turn off the pump by design . The CKPS does not always fail completely but partially giving no code . The ignition switch provides a ground to car frame for operation
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#8
Nope.. The button was down..sigh..thought about and looked up the starter relay...couldn't find a specific starter relay module only 4 or 5 Ignition relays. I still think it's somehow a contact issue..any other simpler thoughts?
#9
Hoping not to get that deep..but to prepare and cover details.. Is there a specific place that ignition ground to the frame occurs? And, if the computer board is near the front passenger side wheel well I hear a very soft double click when I turn the key. It makes me think I'm getting enough juice for that but not enough to continue to the starter..again a short or interruption..and of course..all this is old person theory..based on years of practice under a shady tree..lol ..and thanks for replying
#10
Well..whaddya know?
After waiting for good weather, and a break in lambing, kidding chores..it is spring in Wyoming..I had a moment to go think on my Jag. Up until this, spare time in archives and tech advise still drew me back to common sense..a short. Having learned by practice the key cylinder cannot simply be swapped..code reading and all..I returned to examining the first grounding point, this time with new eyes. Upon closer examination the cylinder to chamber connection was covered in black, reminded me of the distributor cap connections when in need of cleaning..looked burned. Fine sand paper and the discovery that 'someone' had sprayed graphite all in there. Well, considering everywhere I visited to chase after the problem someone had already been there mucking stuff up..it only made sense there was no carefull approach.
Fitted the new Uro damper/shock plates this morning. Just about the easiest job you can do on an X308, the most fiddly bit is putting the 10mm nut on the lower of the three studs that hold the power steering pump. The right-hand side one is a complete breeze, Less than 30 minutes for both even taking your time.
.
.
I hope this 'mechanic' hasn't worked much on this car..lol. Anyway, long story shorter, the simple cleaning of the two surfaces solved the problem..my lovely car thanked my diligence with a graceful ride through Wind River Canyon.. Now I have some wood to move..so..
Fitted the new Uro damper/shock plates this morning. Just about the easiest job you can do on an X308, the most fiddly bit is putting the 10mm nut on the lower of the three studs that hold the power steering pump. The right-hand side one is a complete breeze, Less than 30 minutes for both even taking your time.
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.
#11
A little crazy here sorry if post doesnt fit..
[QUOTE=Melindasue Larrabee;1875044]After waiting for good weather, and a break in lambing, kidding chores..it is spring in Wyoming..I had a moment to go think on my Jag. Up until this, spare time in archives and tech advise still drew me back to common sense..a short. Having learned by practice the key cylinder cannot simply be swapped..code reading and all..I returned to examining the first grounding point, this time with new eyes. Upon closer examination the cylinder to chamber connection was covered in black, reminded me of the distributor cap connections when in need of cleaning..looked burned. Fine sand paper and the discovery that 'someone' had sprayed graphite all in there. Well, considering everywhere I visited to chase after the problem someone had already been there mucking stuff up..it only made sense there was no carefull approach.
I hope this 'mechanic' hasn't worked much on this car..lol. Anyway, long story shorter, the simple cleaning of the two surfaces solved the problem..my lovely car thanked my diligence with a graceful ride through Wind River Canyon.. Now I have some wood to move..so..
I hope this 'mechanic' hasn't worked much on this car..lol. Anyway, long story shorter, the simple cleaning of the two surfaces solved the problem..my lovely car thanked my diligence with a graceful ride through Wind River Canyon.. Now I have some wood to move..so..
#12
Sorry Carnival Kid still dont know how I got you here
After waiting for good weather, and a break in lambing, kidding chores..it is spring in Wyoming..I had a moment to go think on my Jag. Up until this, spare time in archives and tech advise still drew me back to common sense..a short. Having learned by practice the key cylinder cannot simply be swapped..code reading and all..I returned to examining the first grounding point, this time with new eyes. Upon closer examination the cylinder to chamber connection was covered in black, reminded me of the distributor cap connections when in need of cleaning..looked burned. Fine sand paper and the discovery that 'someone' had sprayed graphite all in there. Well, considering everywhere I visited to chase after the problem someone had already been there mucking stuff up..it only made sense there was no carefull approach.
I hope this 'mechanic' hasn't worked much on this car..lol. Anyway, long story shorter, the simple cleaning of the two surfaces solved the problem..my lovely car thanked my diligence with a graceful ride through Wind River Canyon.. Now I have some wood to move..so..
I hope this 'mechanic' hasn't worked much on this car..lol. Anyway, long story shorter, the simple cleaning of the two surfaces solved the problem..my lovely car thanked my diligence with a graceful ride through Wind River Canyon.. Now I have some wood to move..so..
#13
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