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If anybody has a step by step of photo's of the intake removal please post, also any torque pattern and spec's, I'm replacing the thermo housing & stat, valley hoses, serp. belt and tensioner/pulley....maybe the water pump as well.....while I'm there.....any thoughts on a non OEM water pump?
Just wanted to know if there are any landmines along the way? I'm good up to the intake at the TB flange, a quick look...... 10MM bolts for the intake?, layback the wiring and rails? Can't see what might be lurking under the cowl rear of intake? Any help would be great!
While you're in there, I would recommend replacing the knock sensors too. Also clean your MAP sensor. And...you could also clean and rebuild your injectors too while you're in the area. I did all that last year when I replaced my valley hose and the engine regained a few lost horses.
Thank you all for your response! You guys have been a great help.
The hose under the intake was not leaking, seams like the plastic piece that is flanged to the engine, part of the T-stat housing was the problem. Looks like a porosity issue throughout the fitting. I assume the plastic is just breaking down. I did a bit of digging and thanks to NDW ....found the torque sequence and spec for the intake.
I plan to definitely replace the belt, pulley and tensioner. there was a bit of a squeal when I took it out of service.
Car has 124,000 miles.
If time allows I'll tackle the sensors and ejectors. My wife wants her "Baby" back! I mean her Jag back! Ha!
Any TB cleaning suggestions?
I know this is a non sequitur to this post but has anyone found out what causes the front suspension to drop only when its extremely cold? below 25F for days? When it gets warmer..problem goes away? any thoughts?
I know this is a non sequitur to this post but has anyone found out what causes the front suspension to drop only when its extremely cold? below 25F for days? When it gets warmer..problem goes away? any thoughts?
Cheers!
One or both of the air suspension shocks in the front have developed a leak. TONS of threads about this. Very common problem.
I know this is a non sequitur to this post but has anyone found out what causes the front suspension to drop only when its extremely cold? below 25F for days? When it gets warmer..problem goes away? any thoughts?
My best analysis of the cold-weather leak is that the when the upper central metal components of the shock absorber contract due to cold temperatures, small leaks open up in the air spring top seal. You can test this for yourself when the car has been low. Start the engine and allow the suspension to repressurize and raise, then spritz some soapy water around the recess in the top of the air spring/shock assembly, taking care not to wet the electrical connector for the ECATS system. You'll probably see small bubbles at the rubber ring visible around the round recess in the air spring upper mount - this rubber ring is the uppermost section of the top seal.
Back to your main topic, you can download the Jaguar X350 Workshop Manual in six sections at these links:
Regarding the water pump, you do want one with a plastic impeller and not one of metal because of the OAT coolant used. The replacement pump Jaguar is currently supplying appears identical to the Airtex AW4124 available very inexpensively from Rock Auto (Airtex is an OEM to Ford and others). The pump comes with a paper gasket instead of the OE metal/rubber design. I've installed several of these pumps in X100s, X308s and X350s with the paper gasket and have had no leaks, but if you'd rather use the OE-style gasket, Rock Auto carries one by Mahle (part number K31850).
Hey guys! Don't mean to hijack your thread but I'm actually in the process of removing my intake manifold to get at my knock sensors and I'm having a hell of a time. I've got all 10 bolts out of the manifold, throttle body removed, left and right side wire harness mounts removed, fuel line disconnected, injector wires unplugged, the two bolts holding the rear wire harness. She just don't won't budge. Temps are between 40°F/4°C and 53°F/12°C where I'm working and I've even tried it in 80°F/27°C weather to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey guys! Don't mean to hijack your thread but I'm actually in the process of removing my intake manifold to get at my knock sensors and I'm having a hell of a time. I've got all 10 bolts out of the manifold, throttle body removed, left and right side wire harness mounts removed, fuel line disconnected, injector wires unplugged, the two bolts holding the rear wire harness. She just don't won't budge. Temps are between 40°F/4°C and 53°F/12°C where I'm working and I've even tried it in 80°F/27°C weather to no avail. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi NightHawk,
We'll be happy to try to help but without knowing the year, model and engine of your Jaguar we can only guess at how to give you an accurate reply.
It's a good idea to use your User Control Panel (User CP link above) to add this information to your signature line so it shows up with every post you make.
My apologies Don! I feel like I've typed it out in almost every other post I've made, hence I just assumed others would remember what it is we all own (we're a family here!) But I will correct this forthwith! To the point: she's a 2007 XJ8 NA with just shy of 189,000km (117,000mi) I may have forgotten a few things I've disconnected (EGR amongst them) unfortunately I also managed to break one of the tiny vacuum hoses in two places when just getting started but I'll figure out a way to MacGyver it back together.
Here's a visual aid!
EDIT: Signature was there but hasn't been showing up on posts? Would it have something to do with me using my phone to post? Also it's nearly midnight here and my garage lights kinda suck, sorry if the photo is crappy
EDIT: Signature was there but hasn't been showing up on posts? Would it have something to do with me using my phone to post?
Yes, it probably is due to using your phone. It may work if you use the "View Full Site" option on your phone, but it may be more cumbersome to navigate the forum that way.
My guess is that if you have removed all the fasteners, your fuel injector O-rings are sticking and making it hard to pull the manifold off, in which case it may help to pull the injectors out now. Check the photos in this eBay listing to see what you're trying to remove:
The Workshop Manual procedure is a bit sketchy, but it would be worth confirming you have disconnected everything you are supposed to. You can download the manual in six sections at the links below (the intake manifold removal procedure is in the Powertrain section):
Never thought about that. I saw so many people saying they simply left the injectors in the housing and it was no big deal, as for the workshop manual I've had it on my phone for a while but it's not the most descriptive thing out there, though it has helped me in the past with other repairs. Thank you for your help Don! Hopefully today is the last day I have to bug people about this silly manifold!
So.. do I just Pull on them to remove? Probably a stupid question but I'm very wary of breaking more parts as I'm not exactly in a position to be buying new injectors right now. O rings I can replace if need be. I'm still learning more about working on cars, so I apologize if any of this sounds dumb
So.. do I just Pull on them to remove? Probably a stupid question but I'm very wary of breaking more parts as I'm not exactly in a position to be buying new injectors right now. O rings I can replace if need be. I'm still learning more about working on cars, so I apologize if any of this sounds dumb
There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
Removing the injectors should be a matter of twisting clockwise/counterclockwise along the axis of the injector (not sideward) to help break the O-ring seal, and simultaneously pulling upward. Here's what the injectors look like (courtesy of our sponsor SNG Barrett):
Would that be just to split the plastic housing away from the aluminum portion or would this be to remove the whole shooting match? I've unbolted my RH fuel rail and have tried pulling it up with a gentle wiggle (Really don't want to break anything I can't replace right now) and it moves but I don't feel like it's come outwards at all. I have both the rubber covered metal gaskets for the lower portion as well as the green and black rubber seal rings. My main concern is the knock sensor.
I was reading a couple of the TSBs regarding pinging and they only mention a software update? I had the car in to see several mechanics regarding this issue and they've all either failed to hear it or said just don't worry about it. The problem is I was never able to demonstrate the noise properly, but if I do a brake stand it can be heard. From what my friend (who is the only one who has heard it properly) tells me it's quite violent.
03-19-2018, 04:37 PM
2005 XJ intake manifold removal
but I'll figure out a way to MacGyver it back together.
