1976 XJ6-L Project
#22
Wow, mine looks Nothing like that, hopefully I can re-connect to the gas can and mounts some new fuel pumps there!
My only fuel line in the boot is pictured below:
it looks like I'm going to be having one heck of a project routing all these fuel lines! but for now I got the car running off an electric pump to a gas can:
Do I get bonus points for creativity or do I lose points for being ghetto? either way she runs like a champ!
Today's Progress: new battery + battery cables
successful start + idle W/ electric fuel pump
My only fuel line in the boot is pictured below:
it looks like I'm going to be having one heck of a project routing all these fuel lines! but for now I got the car running off an electric pump to a gas can:
Do I get bonus points for creativity or do I lose points for being ghetto? either way she runs like a champ!
Today's Progress: new battery + battery cables
successful start + idle W/ electric fuel pump
#25
#26
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olivermarks (04-14-2018)
#27
#28
You are getting there. there are advantages to a "clean sheet of paper.
The boot in your car should have one of the stubs on each side of the boot. One for each tank,.
The "ghetto" pump will probably suffice in the new system. Shop for filters, and a change over valve. Or merely a "T" to jpin the tanks, Best in that mode with one way valves on each side.
Then, down and under., Did the feed and return lines survive in usable condition. Look in the engine bay. ON a LHD car, near the master cylinder. Two lines. One my have a wrap. One is feed,the other, return.
I recall a tale of two former business associates that went deer hunting in Utah. somehow, out in the wilds, the glass bowl on their 56 F100 got busted!!!! Plans included moving the fuel tank to the roof of the cab and gravity feeding the 292. Then, voila a tin of Vienna sausage was the perfect size to sub in in lieu of the busted glass bowl. I suggested when told the tale to leave it be.... .I like those little sausages. gotta get some in a bit.
Further back, My T was getting an up date. A 27 roadster body in lieu of it's less desirable 23 bucket. Alas, the cowl tank was plugged in rust. Alas, not found til it was bolted down and plumbed!!!! In my treaures, I had a nice tank that had once fed a small outboard motor. About two gallon capacity. I hung it to a windshield post and plumbed it to the nearby carb. Limited range, but it served. In the interim, I put a bunch of tacks in the main tank and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Easier on my teen budget. Drained of a bit from time to time. At last, it came clean. Some tacks remained. So ? No harm, no foul.
Carl
The boot in your car should have one of the stubs on each side of the boot. One for each tank,.
The "ghetto" pump will probably suffice in the new system. Shop for filters, and a change over valve. Or merely a "T" to jpin the tanks, Best in that mode with one way valves on each side.
Then, down and under., Did the feed and return lines survive in usable condition. Look in the engine bay. ON a LHD car, near the master cylinder. Two lines. One my have a wrap. One is feed,the other, return.
I recall a tale of two former business associates that went deer hunting in Utah. somehow, out in the wilds, the glass bowl on their 56 F100 got busted!!!! Plans included moving the fuel tank to the roof of the cab and gravity feeding the 292. Then, voila a tin of Vienna sausage was the perfect size to sub in in lieu of the busted glass bowl. I suggested when told the tale to leave it be.... .I like those little sausages. gotta get some in a bit.
Further back, My T was getting an up date. A 27 roadster body in lieu of it's less desirable 23 bucket. Alas, the cowl tank was plugged in rust. Alas, not found til it was bolted down and plumbed!!!! In my treaures, I had a nice tank that had once fed a small outboard motor. About two gallon capacity. I hung it to a windshield post and plumbed it to the nearby carb. Limited range, but it served. In the interim, I put a bunch of tacks in the main tank and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Easier on my teen budget. Drained of a bit from time to time. At last, it came clean. Some tacks remained. So ? No harm, no foul.
Carl
#29
#30
Does anybody else have wiring behind the rear wheel well? My sending unit is behind the tail light so I'm curious if this could be an in-tank fuel pump? im rather hopeful that its not as those are fairly hard to come-by and im trying to avoid removing the fuel tank if possible. either way if it ever stops raining I'll be pulling the fuel line and seeing if fuel comes out or can be pumped out. I also noticed that the hard line this is attached to appears to run directly to the front of the car, I had been under the assumption that it would run to a common area with the other fuel tank where the change over valve was meant to be located.
I certainly wish these fuel lines didn’t all run into the body behind the back seat into the void that doesn’t seem to be accessible. Makes it awfully difficult to work with
I certainly wish these fuel lines didn’t all run into the body behind the back seat into the void that doesn’t seem to be accessible. Makes it awfully difficult to work with
Last edited by Hantke; 04-14-2018 at 09:08 PM.
#31
You are getting there. there are advantages to a "clean sheet of paper.
The boot in your car should have one of the stubs on each side of the boot. One for each tank,.
There's actually nothing in the boot at all, all the holes are sealed on the sides where everybody else is showing their fuel lines are coming in, and it appears that they have been that way for a long time. oddly enough the passenger side tank seems to be run directly into the hard line that comes up just beneath the carburetor.
The "ghetto" pump will probably suffice in the new system. Shop for filters, and a change over valve. Or merely a "T" to jpin the tanks, Best in that mode with one way valves on each side.
I've been thinking about running dual pumps with one way check valves in them. I've been told from some people that the carbureted models don't have return lines, and by others that they do, do some have them and some not? I've been following the hard lines around the car but they have a nasty habit of disappearing into the body and returning in other places, it'll be much easier when I have the chance to lift the car up a couple of feet on jack stands.
Then, down and under., Did the feed and return lines survive in usable condition. Look in the engine bay. ON a LHD car, near the master cylinder. Two lines. One my have a wrap. One is feed,the other, return.
All of the lines appear to be in decent shape, though I was only able to positively identify the feed line before the rain rolled in again, I am hoping to positively trace and mark all of the lines tonight or tomorrow morning.
I recall a tale of two former business associates that went deer hunting in Utah. somehow, out in the wilds, the glass bowl on their 56 F100 got busted!!!! Plans included moving the fuel tank to the roof of the cab and gravity feeding the 292. Then, voila a tin of Vienna sausage was the perfect size to sub in in lieu of the busted glass bowl. I suggested when told the tale to leave it be.... .I like those little sausages. gotta get some in a bit.
Further back, My T was getting an up date. A 27 roadster body in lieu of it's less desirable 23 bucket. Alas, the cowl tank was plugged in rust. Alas, not found til it was bolted down and plumbed!!!! In my treaures, I had a nice tank that had once fed a small outboard motor. About two gallon capacity. I hung it to a windshield post and plumbed it to the nearby carb. Limited range, but it served. In the interim, I put a bunch of tacks in the main tank and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Easier on my teen budget. Drained of a bit from time to time. At last, it came clean. Some tacks remained. So ? No harm, no foul.
Carl
The boot in your car should have one of the stubs on each side of the boot. One for each tank,.
There's actually nothing in the boot at all, all the holes are sealed on the sides where everybody else is showing their fuel lines are coming in, and it appears that they have been that way for a long time. oddly enough the passenger side tank seems to be run directly into the hard line that comes up just beneath the carburetor.
The "ghetto" pump will probably suffice in the new system. Shop for filters, and a change over valve. Or merely a "T" to jpin the tanks, Best in that mode with one way valves on each side.
I've been thinking about running dual pumps with one way check valves in them. I've been told from some people that the carbureted models don't have return lines, and by others that they do, do some have them and some not? I've been following the hard lines around the car but they have a nasty habit of disappearing into the body and returning in other places, it'll be much easier when I have the chance to lift the car up a couple of feet on jack stands.
Then, down and under., Did the feed and return lines survive in usable condition. Look in the engine bay. ON a LHD car, near the master cylinder. Two lines. One my have a wrap. One is feed,the other, return.
All of the lines appear to be in decent shape, though I was only able to positively identify the feed line before the rain rolled in again, I am hoping to positively trace and mark all of the lines tonight or tomorrow morning.
I recall a tale of two former business associates that went deer hunting in Utah. somehow, out in the wilds, the glass bowl on their 56 F100 got busted!!!! Plans included moving the fuel tank to the roof of the cab and gravity feeding the 292. Then, voila a tin of Vienna sausage was the perfect size to sub in in lieu of the busted glass bowl. I suggested when told the tale to leave it be.... .I like those little sausages. gotta get some in a bit.
Further back, My T was getting an up date. A 27 roadster body in lieu of it's less desirable 23 bucket. Alas, the cowl tank was plugged in rust. Alas, not found til it was bolted down and plumbed!!!! In my treaures, I had a nice tank that had once fed a small outboard motor. About two gallon capacity. I hung it to a windshield post and plumbed it to the nearby carb. Limited range, but it served. In the interim, I put a bunch of tacks in the main tank and a couple of gallons of kerosene. Easier on my teen budget. Drained of a bit from time to time. At last, it came clean. Some tacks remained. So ? No harm, no foul.
Carl
#32
Does anybody else have wiring behind the rear wheel well? My sending unit is behind the tail light so I'm curious if this could be an in-tank fuel pump? im rather hopeful that its not as those are fairly hard to come-by and im trying to avoid removing the fuel tank if possible. either way if it ever stops raining I'll be pulling the fuel line and seeing if fuel comes out or can be pumped out. I also noticed that the hard line this is attached to appears to run directly to the front of the car, I had been under the assumption that it would run to a common area with the other fuel tank where the change over valve was meant to be located.
I certainly wish these fuel lines didn’t all run into the body behind the back seat into the void that doesn’t seem to be accessible. Makes it awfully difficult to work with
I certainly wish these fuel lines didn’t all run into the body behind the back seat into the void that doesn’t seem to be accessible. Makes it awfully difficult to work with
Both lines meet up in front of the Right tank to a factory "T" and from there to the front of the car.
As far as I've been able to tell, I have no return lines, but if they were original, they were probably removed with the Restoversion was done in 1986.
(';')
#33
My car has in-tank fuel pumps, disabled now as I have a Chevy engine with its own fuel pump, but pumps are still in the tanks.
Both lines meet up in front of the Right tank to a factory "T" and from there to the front of the car.
As far as I've been able to tell, I have no return lines, but if they were original, they were probably removed with the Restoversion was done in 1986.
(';')
Both lines meet up in front of the Right tank to a factory "T" and from there to the front of the car.
As far as I've been able to tell, I have no return lines, but if they were original, they were probably removed with the Restoversion was done in 1986.
(';')
#34
Then from where the fuel exits the boot to the engine bay it is metal and goes above the cradle well away from the exhaust.
#35
this is probably a stupid question, but do you know if they were just un-plugged and that was it? I applied power to the wires and nothing happened so they are clearly dead. if I can put a pump up-stream from them and draw fuel I would be quite thrilled right now. I’ve run into a dead-end while trying to find the “T” in the lines, tomorrow I’m going to try putting the pump on the Individual tanks fuel lines and try pumping fuel out that way tomorrow
I have to leave soon but when I get back I'll find a picture of my "T" and post it here. Maybe that will help you find yours.
(';')
#36
Accepted. As a carbureted car, it is unlikely that a return line exists, or ever did.
Now, that simplifies things, for sure. Lines from two tanks and immersed fuel pumps ? Or the immersed fuel pumps failed. Abandoned in situ. After market pump drawing from both tanks via a "T".
So, if any other lines exist from the tanks, they might well be a part of the "closed loop" vent system. An emesions thing .
Carl
Now, that simplifies things, for sure. Lines from two tanks and immersed fuel pumps ? Or the immersed fuel pumps failed. Abandoned in situ. After market pump drawing from both tanks via a "T".
So, if any other lines exist from the tanks, they might well be a part of the "closed loop" vent system. An emesions thing .
Carl
#37
this is probably a stupid question, but do you know if they were just un-plugged and that was it? I applied power to the wires and nothing happened so they are clearly dead. if I can put a pump up-stream from them and draw fuel I would be quite thrilled right now. I’ve run into a dead-end while trying to find the “T” in the lines, tomorrow I’m going to try putting the pump on the Individual tanks fuel lines and try pumping fuel out that way tomorrow
As promised, below are pictures of the fuel tee on my car.
Here is a broader view so you might find the area easier.
Running auxiliary pumps sounds like an idea to me. Even if the pumps are dead you can probably still draw fuel through them as I'm doing, because the one-way valves still seem to work. I don't know where you'd mount them for quiet operation, but I'm sure you'll come up with something.
(';')
Last edited by LnrB; 04-15-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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Hantke (04-17-2018)
#38
Accepted. As a carbureted car, it is unlikely that a return line exists, or ever did.
Now, that simplifies things, for sure. Lines from two tanks and immersed fuel pumps ? Or the immersed fuel pumps failed. Abandoned in situ. After market pump drawing from both tanks via a "T".
So, if any other lines exist from the tanks, they might well be a part of the "closed loop" vent system. An emesions thing .
Carl
Now, that simplifies things, for sure. Lines from two tanks and immersed fuel pumps ? Or the immersed fuel pumps failed. Abandoned in situ. After market pump drawing from both tanks via a "T".
So, if any other lines exist from the tanks, they might well be a part of the "closed loop" vent system. An emesions thing .
Carl
First off, there are No stupid questions only stupid answers. How do you learn without asking questions?? Everyone here started at the beginning sometime, even Doug and Grant.
As promised, below are pictures of the fuel tee on my car.
Here is a broader view so you might find the area easier.
Running auxiliary pumps sounds like an idea to me. Even if the pumps are dead you can probably still draw fuel through them as I'm doing, because the one-way valves still seem to work. I don't know where you'd mount them for quiet operation, but I'm sure you'll come up with something.
(';')
As promised, below are pictures of the fuel tee on my car.
Here is a broader view so you might find the area easier.
Running auxiliary pumps sounds like an idea to me. Even if the pumps are dead you can probably still draw fuel through them as I'm doing, because the one-way valves still seem to work. I don't know where you'd mount them for quiet operation, but I'm sure you'll come up with something.
(';')
I'll keep everyone posted when I start making progress again!
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LnrB (04-17-2018)
#39
One way to tell with the fuel tanks is the position of the fuel level sender. With the correct S11 tanks the sender is behind a small panel in the wheel arch (both sides) with the later S111 tank it is in the rear of the tank.
Also I don’t think the S11 has a switch over, more of a non return valve in each fuel line.
Also I don’t think the S11 has a switch over, more of a non return valve in each fuel line.
#40
The car started off fuel for the first time since I've owned it yesterday! sure its not the fanciest setup at the moment, and its not mounted yet, but it did start and run off this setup! now I believe I need a more powerful fuel pump (dies if I rev the engine up and let off the gas, which It didn't when the fuel pump was located closer to the carb) and a little wiring and she should be just about roadworthy!
That's good to know, now if only I knew why it was in the trunk! perhaps the previous owner picked it up thinking it was the issue at some point, but who knows. either way the car starts, with a key and im happy. just a little more work and it should be good to go!
I wish I saw these before! anyways, I will double check when I make it back to the jag and let you know!
One way to tell with the fuel tanks is the position of the fuel level sender. With the correct S11 tanks the sender is behind a small panel in the wheel arch (both sides) with the later S111 tank it is in the rear of the tank.
Also I don’t think the S11 has a switch over, more of a non return valve in each fuel line.
Also I don’t think the S11 has a switch over, more of a non return valve in each fuel line.
Hantke.......Hello. I just joined this Jag site, and I am also restoring a 1977 XJ6L which I bought last month. I have been taking a ton of pics of the rebuild process, and will post some here of the submerged fuel pumps that I removed, and the carb rebuilds. I also just posted a question in another thread about the ignition system......do you have two Ballast Resistors at the base of your Coil as mine does?
Here is a pic of how you remove the submerged fuel pump:
Passenger side fuel pump is behind this round cover. Same on driver's side.
Lock down ring removed, and pump ready to be pulled out. Be sure to drain the tanks first!
Both of my pumps were bad. This pic is after cleaning.
I would MUCH rather have the prior design of the pumps and filter in the trunk, as its a big pain to remove/replace these units inside the tanks. I am contemplating replacing them with one electric pump mounted externally.
Here is the pic of my ignition system, located down and to the right of the carbs. Can you tell me if you have BOTH of these ballast resistors mounted just below your Coil?
White colored ballast resistor below and to the left, and a silver one down and to the right of the Coil.Thanks.
Here is a pic of how you remove the submerged fuel pump:
Passenger side fuel pump is behind this round cover. Same on driver's side.
Lock down ring removed, and pump ready to be pulled out. Be sure to drain the tanks first!
Both of my pumps were bad. This pic is after cleaning.
I would MUCH rather have the prior design of the pumps and filter in the trunk, as its a big pain to remove/replace these units inside the tanks. I am contemplating replacing them with one electric pump mounted externally.
Here is the pic of my ignition system, located down and to the right of the carbs. Can you tell me if you have BOTH of these ballast resistors mounted just below your Coil?
White colored ballast resistor below and to the left, and a silver one down and to the right of the Coil.Thanks.