Spinning Wheel Studs
#1
Spinning Wheel Studs
On the recently purchased 1988 XJ6/XJ40, while working on the brakes, I noticed two wheel nuts were not tightening when replacing the rear wheel.
This is on the corner already marked for attention (after the brakes are sorted) as one stud was missing. Attempts at the weekend to remove them with the air driven impact wrench have confirmed that they just want to spin, and now a third one has joined them (after just using a "spider" on them).
The wheels are after market and the nuts are recessed, I will not be dremelling them off!
Research today suggests that the studs would have been screwed in from the outer side (not pressed in from the inner side), with same thread direction as normal, then chiseled from the back to help them stay in place?
So if they are spinning now, does that suggest they are loosening and trying to come out (not the same as splined studs, which might lose the splines and spin, but would not be willing to come with the wheel as they have a larger head on the back of the hub)?
Seems to me that if I spin the nuts counterclockwise and pull the wheel outwards, the stud should just unscrew from the hub, or am I picturing it wrong?
With just one in this position, the wheel should pull it off, but with two or more it might be more tricky to tension them all appropriately and concurrently?
Current plan is to source a used hub, then drill out the nuts/studs. Expecting a hub to not cost more than four new studs anyway and a trip to the breakers might yield some other parts I need.
This is on the corner already marked for attention (after the brakes are sorted) as one stud was missing. Attempts at the weekend to remove them with the air driven impact wrench have confirmed that they just want to spin, and now a third one has joined them (after just using a "spider" on them).
The wheels are after market and the nuts are recessed, I will not be dremelling them off!
Research today suggests that the studs would have been screwed in from the outer side (not pressed in from the inner side), with same thread direction as normal, then chiseled from the back to help them stay in place?
So if they are spinning now, does that suggest they are loosening and trying to come out (not the same as splined studs, which might lose the splines and spin, but would not be willing to come with the wheel as they have a larger head on the back of the hub)?
Seems to me that if I spin the nuts counterclockwise and pull the wheel outwards, the stud should just unscrew from the hub, or am I picturing it wrong?
With just one in this position, the wheel should pull it off, but with two or more it might be more tricky to tension them all appropriately and concurrently?
Current plan is to source a used hub, then drill out the nuts/studs. Expecting a hub to not cost more than four new studs anyway and a trip to the breakers might yield some other parts I need.
#2
#3
I had one spin on me on my XJ40. Yes, it is threaded in and the back side is flared. I used a 3" die grinder to cut the nut 1/2 way and was able to use a nut splitter to weaken the nut as the die grinder and the nut splitter were difficult to use without damaging the rim, I eventually used a 1/4" chisel to completely split the nut open. The nut, now totally damaged was now too small for the socket so I hammered in a smaller socket and used my air gun to extract the nut. Once the rim was off (undamaged) I was able to remove the stud. The thread on the hub is now damaged so I will be visiting the breaker yard in search of a pair of hubs. Once I find them, and the studs are good,I will I will spot weld them in place. The manual says to mark the wheel and put it back in the same position always. I will go further and mark the studs and nuts also and never ever use an impact gun on them again.
The following 2 users liked this post by sanchez:
Don B (04-16-2018),
MountainMan (04-23-2018)
#4
The following users liked this post:
Don B (04-16-2018)
#5
From the online parts stores, it looks like the hubs are interchangeable with quite a few different Jaguars, and might come with splined studs now, as in old part number CCC2913 replaced with MNA3337AA-
PART NO. MNA3337AA - HUB PARTS
Part suitable for use in:
XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308)
XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308 - Canada/Mexico/USA)
XK8 Coupe/Convertible up to (V) 042775
XK8 Coupe/Convertible - Canada/USA up to (V) 042775
XK8 Coupe/Convertible from (V) A00083 to (V) A30644
XJ Series from (V)720125 to (V)812255 (X300)
XJ6 (2.9, 3.2, 3.6, 4.0) from (V)500001 to (V)667828
XJS from (V)179737 to (V)226645
XJ6 & XJ12 from (V)667829 to (V)708757
XJ6 & XJ12 from (V)667829 to (V)708757 - Canada/USA
Should make everyone's scrapyard searching a little easier.
Last edited by cooldood; 04-16-2018 at 04:16 PM.
#6
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Hi cooldood,
Here's a photo of the rear studs, part number CAC3878, courtesy of our forum sponsor, SNG Barratt:
The studs are threaded in from the front, then peened on the back side of the hub to lock them in place. So if yours are spinning, I'm afraid Jerry is right, the threads must be stripped. However, there's always the chance that the peening on the back of the hub was not done well or has rusted away and the studs really are threading out.
Since your lug nuts are recessed, you can't cut them like sanchez did. Worst case, you can remove the wheel and hub carrier from the car, remove the ABS reluctor/sensor rotor/ tone wheel, and pull the hub carrier off of the hub. Then drill the studs out from the back side to release the wheel. You could conceivably remove the axle nut and lever the hub/wheel out, but reinstalling the hub requires aligning the ABS reluctor and tapping it onto the end of the hub, and that might be difficult to do with the hub carrier in the car and the axle passing through it.
Note that the axle nuts are "one-use-only" and must be replaced once removed. They have a helical insert that locks them in place, but when the nuts are torqued to final spec, around 230 ft. lbs., the insert becomes so distorted that if removed and reused, it cannot be relied upon to remain locked in place. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum reported axle nuts loosening after they were reused.
Cheers,
Don
Here's a photo of the rear studs, part number CAC3878, courtesy of our forum sponsor, SNG Barratt:
The studs are threaded in from the front, then peened on the back side of the hub to lock them in place. So if yours are spinning, I'm afraid Jerry is right, the threads must be stripped. However, there's always the chance that the peening on the back of the hub was not done well or has rusted away and the studs really are threading out.
Since your lug nuts are recessed, you can't cut them like sanchez did. Worst case, you can remove the wheel and hub carrier from the car, remove the ABS reluctor/sensor rotor/ tone wheel, and pull the hub carrier off of the hub. Then drill the studs out from the back side to release the wheel. You could conceivably remove the axle nut and lever the hub/wheel out, but reinstalling the hub requires aligning the ABS reluctor and tapping it onto the end of the hub, and that might be difficult to do with the hub carrier in the car and the axle passing through it.
Note that the axle nuts are "one-use-only" and must be replaced once removed. They have a helical insert that locks them in place, but when the nuts are torqued to final spec, around 230 ft. lbs., the insert becomes so distorted that if removed and reused, it cannot be relied upon to remain locked in place. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum reported axle nuts loosening after they were reused.
Cheers,
Don
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MountainMan (04-23-2018)
#7
The following 3 users liked this post by motorcarman:
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#8
I ended up buying a new hub, with press in studs.
Two hours with a slide hammer teased the hub out of a 1992 hub carrier, but one of its studs started to spin too. Two minutes with a slide hammer teased the hub out of my car;s hub carrier!
Lessons learned
1992 cars have a different handbrakes mechanism, and so you need the cable too.
Slide hammers beat 3 jaw pullers at hub removal.
ABS is now fault free, but that might be due to reflowing the solder in the relay.
Trip to the pick and pull also yielded spare relays, a working antenna, rear light lenses, interior light units, and assorted nuts, bolts and plastic fittings that help hold the car together.
A/C system is next project, summer is coming!!!!
Two hours with a slide hammer teased the hub out of a 1992 hub carrier, but one of its studs started to spin too. Two minutes with a slide hammer teased the hub out of my car;s hub carrier!
Lessons learned
1992 cars have a different handbrakes mechanism, and so you need the cable too.
Slide hammers beat 3 jaw pullers at hub removal.
ABS is now fault free, but that might be due to reflowing the solder in the relay.
Trip to the pick and pull also yielded spare relays, a working antenna, rear light lenses, interior light units, and assorted nuts, bolts and plastic fittings that help hold the car together.
A/C system is next project, summer is coming!!!!
The following users liked this post:
Don B (05-13-2018)
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