Dear friend,

Hello again. I bought a Daimler Six (x300). After 8 months of restoration, i received last week the car. The problem is that air conditioner doesn't work. I have charged the gas but it doesn't improve. Air is hot.

When i start A/C, LED shows "Er". I have checked the error code: 12, 23 & 24 error codes.

I have looked in the engine and i have seen a hose that is almost frozen (see picture) and other 2 hoses hot (see picture).

I have checked wires and i can see only 2 plug disconnected (second picture). Anybody know what are this plugs??

What is the A/C issue??? Please, help me.

Thanks!!

 

Chill out




The electrical plugs in the lower pic is for the rear wheel traction control actuator which sits in front of the ABS module , you don't have one .

The 2 A/C pressure switches are in the upper right area on the lower pic . There was a TSB to rewire the switches as the low pressure 2 wire switch has a high failure rate .

You have a/c clutch engagement and compressor functioning hence the hot and cold lines .

There is a TSB on the codes you read by doing the front panel test on the control head as a file below .

There is a good Jaguar training manual for the A/C only as a file below . X300 starts on page 45 . Self test page 110 .

Clogged Thermo Expansion Valve from the beads inside the dryer coming out into the pipes ?

 

I was searching air ambient temperature sensor and suddenly (with engine stars) i saw like a green gas coming out from A/C compressor by a valve each 3-4 minutes as you can see in the picture.

What is the problem???

 

The 4 wire overpressure switch in the your upper right corner in your lower pic is not turning the system off . Clogged TEV

If you take a paper clip and jumper on the removed connector wires Blue / Black and Block / Pink the compressor should disengage . The other 2 wires when jumpered makes both radiator fans run

 

Thanks Lady Penelope!

Do you think this is the cause of A/C doesn't work??

Do you know where is this valve??

I have tried to find it but i can't see it

Thanks!

 

The overpressure switch not shutting the AC compressor clutch off is a separate issue other then the system not functioning normally in the normal pressure range . It could be that it was overserviced with freon .

A quick and dirty way to somewhat properly service the freon without gauges is to service it up with a freon charge until the overpressure switch shuts the compressor off off while running and bleed off the overcharge until the compressor stays on .

To clear the ( in my opinion ) clogged TEV requires emptying the full freon charge so plan your repair sequence accordingly

The TEV is hiding behind the aft engine compartment firewall and the fwd side of the cabin evaporator But the TEV can be cleared with compressed regular air on the fittings on the engine side of the firewall . Motorcarman ( Bob ) mentioned it takes several back and forth directions of the compressed air to dislodge the pieces . You would have to change the dryer ( $ 35 bucks ) at the same time and clean the lines . Dryer service life before they spill the beads is somewhere between 7 - 10 years . Nobody changes them until it causes problems .

The codes you read are not going to effect the basic core refrigeration system from blowing cold air with the exception of the external temp sensor in the left brake cooling duct keeping the system modulated low . Connector clean .

While the compressor is emptied you can change the seals as a DIY overhaul and save alot of money . Parts on their website .


Ask questions .

 

In general, the hose temps are as they should be. Compressor to condenser very hot. Line through firewall into evaporator cold. Return line to compressor warm to hot.

An a/c gauge set would tell a lot about the state of charge and functioning of the system. It will inform you of the working pressures according to the ambient temperature. Do you know if the correct amount of refrigerant was added? 1.2 Kg or about 39 ounces.

The valve on the compressor may be the pressure bleed valve. The system may be overcharged. But code 23 shows low refrigerant - so maybe not.

The compressor should cycle on and off. With low refrigerant, it might not cycle, but stay on.

The pressure switch is located on the line that goes into the firewall. Cylindrical with the 4 wires as in the diagram.

Check the ambient temperature sensor. It is attached into the left side brake cooling duct. If you can see the external temp displayed on the a/c panel, it is probably ok.

 

My guess is the REC/DRIER has failed and all the desiccant beads have traveled around and created an 'EXPANSION VALVE' in the system where it is NOT supposed to be.

Feel the inlet and outlet of the REC/DRIER to see if there is a temp drop across the tube?