Well I will wait for the other one that you recommended that works from USB and we will see if that works. Just kind of weird that others are able to use it and I can't. I tried different phones and also tried BT on my computer.

 

...you’ll all think I have shares in PLX, the makers of the Kiwi OBDII device - I don’t

I just had an email yesterday to say they have a new model, the Kiwi 4, that they are releasing. It didn’t appear on their website yet, when I looked 24 hours ago.
The new model has a micro-SD card, so can continuously record engine data even if the Bluetooth connection to your phone is interrupted by a call. Sounds like an improvement.

 

Have you checked the OBD port for power and pushed back sockets ? You never know . The data wire without looking is the Orange wire .

 

I would think that if the OBD is providing some data everything should be good. plus the BT us connection. A fuse? I guess I need to look at the wiring diagram for the port.

 

It's in the last section of the wiring guide

Nap time

 

Looking at that diagram I think that I would be concerned with P159 and LS-3. I think that everything that I am getting is coming off the instrument control module if I am looking at this correctly. Just trying to think during the troubleshooting stages if for some reason I would have messed with one of those two. I can't tell if there is a fuse inline with either one of those. However if there was I would think that I would be having a lot of other issues.

 

It was the P159 plug. It looks as if someone was screwing around with that plug long ago and they broke the tab that keeps it together. So I strap it tight and everything began to work. Now that I am getting data I need to figure out where my gas milage has gone. Thanks Lady P!

 

Without live data the most common item is the ECT sensor does not switch the ECU from the rich cold engine start mode to the normal . Someone refereed this to open and close loop status satisfied by certain targets of the sensor values . It's better explained by someone with more practical experience and in the following PDF : AJ16 starts on page 51

I overcame my ECT CEL code light by cleaning the 2 wire sensor connector atop the coolant thermostat housing . The single wire sensor drives the instrument gauge only .

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...20-%202000.pdf

 

Lady P here are a few failures that I am getting and my milage has actually gotten worse

 

Those look like a O2 sensor function test . Can't help as that is something I didn't get lined out before my key stopped working .

 

Hi Phil,

Those are Mode $06 Data, which were originally intended to be hidden and not used by technicians for diagnosis. So given that the OBDII standard had only been implemented for a year or two when your 1997 was built, Jaguar did not publish definitions of the Test Identifications (TID), which indicate the specific monitor test, or Component Identifications (CID), which indicate the specific sensor or other component under test. In fact, to my knowledge, Jaguar has published only a limited number of documents with Mode $06 data. I am attaching one of them from 2004.

According to the attached document, TID $09 has to do with EGR system flow changing too slowly. TID $08 has to do with leak detection in the evaporative emissions system. TID $05 is not listed.

All that to say, it is likely that Mode $06 data will be of limited value on your 1997. It would probably be more helpful to look at the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) Readiness Monitors, which may or may not be supported on your car.

Have you scanned for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs), and if so, what codes are flagged?

Regarding your fuel mileage, are you measuring it by filling the tank and tracking your miles driven, or are you just checking the on-board trip computer? I ask because the on-board computer only approximates the actual fuel economy and when I have run more "scientific" tests by filling the tank, driving a specific distance over a specific route, then refilling the tank and calculating the miles per gallon, I have found the on-board computer to always be off, often by 2-3 mpg or more.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for your info! "TID $08 has to do with leak detection in the evaporative emissions system" So is this an issue? I am suspecting a leak in the manifold but but Need to get it up on a lift to check. There is a smell of exhaust or fuel in the engine compartment. If it is the EM I would like to replace them myself since I have a parts car but again not sure if I can do this or not. I know the smell could be fuel or exhaust sounds weird but I cant figure which one it is. There is also no code being displayed. The last code I received was P1792. Could not find any info on it and cleared it and it has not come back.

As for the gas milage. Yes I am using the trip computer but ever since I have had the car, 17 years, I have used it and gauged it on that. So based on what is use to say, it has gone down about 3 mpgs.

 

P1792 indicates a problem with the transmission Sport Mode circuitry. Here's the listing from the 4HP24 Transmission DTC Summaries guide:




Reduced fuel economy can be caused by a number of things, but some common ones are a clogged air filter, a stuck open coolant thermostat, or a failing engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS) or problem with its wiring or circuit.

Can you read the coolant temperature on your Live Data? If it runs cold due to a stuck open thermostat, or if the ECTS erroneously reports that the coolant is cold, the ECM may continue to apply cold start/warm up fuel enrichment even after the engine reaches operating temperature, leading to rich running and reduced fuel economy.

Cheers,

Don

 

When

I used Torque my Tstat temps were not correct unless my engine is a block of ice in the northern tundra somewhere. They were all showing-30C to -40C. However I purchased Auto Doctor and will look tonight to see if it gives me any other numbers

 

You have to keep in mind the gimmick data these devices show in order to sale more then the competitor . Look our devise shows 600 things . So unless it is a true sensor data value Vs. a fudge factor derived one I would reject the derived data . They will so much as to tell you how much horsepower you put out , give me a break .

 

Your intake air temperature sensor is...not functioning? (It's in the intake elbow)


Cheap part, easy fix.

 

How did you figure that out? I guess i need to pull it off the other car

Well to find it I was going to pull it off the parts catalog but the links on the sticky are no longer valid

 

Ambient air is not -40C....that reading comes from the IAT.

 

The IAT sensor can be verified against the chart on page 86 of the Jaguar 801S doc . So for 68 F it should read 2500 ohms . 86 F is 1700 ohms . It is a thermister .

An open wire or bad connector mimics a cold reading .

It's the exact same as the 2 wire ECT sensor .

 

Because I am still a novice can you point me to how I test this. Will an OBD provide me that info>