Little Help with my OBD
#41
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Crossroads of America
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The IAT sensor can be verified against the chart on page 86 of the Jaguar 801S doc . So for 68 F it should read 2500 ohms . 86 F is 1700 ohms . It is a thermister .
An open wire or bad connector mimics a cold reading .
It's the exact same as the 2 wire ECT sensor .
An open wire or bad connector mimics a cold reading .
It's the exact same as the 2 wire ECT sensor .
Just for clarity, what you mean is that the resistance vs. temperature readings of the IAT and ECT are the same, not that the two sensors are the same part, right?
Cheers,
Don
#43
I'll need to double check later as I'm on my way out to the salvage yards looking for some wonderful things so M'Lady Penelope feels whole again . She likes it when I bring her shiny things like X308 headlights and chrome mirrors and handles . Why do I do such things for her , because she's special . just ask her .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 05-02-2018 at 11:04 AM.
#44
#45
I guess I will replace my IAT from the parts car. Just was not sure it was necessary. Not sure why O2 was not reading. When I did a diag it said that they were in spec. Maybe for some reason when I ran the PID scanner it did not get the data. I hope you are right about the MAF. I just replaced it from my parts car unless that one was bad.
#46
#47
#48
#49
SO if closed loop is not right what should I be looking at to determine the issue. Again still having MPG issues. Since I have the extra car I have been swapping out different part. However, as suggested, I am running a trail to see who close my MPG gauge is to the actual MPG's. Maybe I have an issues with the gauge.
Two other things. I am going to change out the Coolant temp Sensor tonight and I know that I do have an exhaust leak and will be changing out the manifold as soon as the gasket come in
Two other things. I am going to change out the Coolant temp Sensor tonight and I know that I do have an exhaust leak and will be changing out the manifold as soon as the gasket come in
Last edited by cdma; 05-02-2018 at 02:00 PM.
#50
Plugged in and engine running pulling air . TPS just with key on not running . You can take a needle on the back end of the connector or strip some insulation off the wire as it goes over the fuel rail . I sodiered in test leads for easy reading in service .
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Don B (05-02-2018)
#51
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Location: Crossroads of America
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I don’t think it means anything, but Anytime I see “Closed Loop”, I give it the stink eye.
Fuel System is Closed Loop? Does that mean the fueling system is in Closed Loop? If it does, then there’s something that’s preventing the ECU from wanting to read the sensors for fueling.
Fuel System is Closed Loop? Does that mean the fueling system is in Closed Loop? If it does, then there’s something that’s preventing the ECU from wanting to read the sensors for fueling.
I'm not following you, Vee. Closed loop means the ECM is actively monitoring the sensors and dynamically adjusting fuel metering (injector pulse duration) to maintain the air-to-fuel ratio (AFR) at stoichiometric, instead of fueling based on default maps (open loop) as it does while it's waiting for the O2S heaters to bring them to operating temperature.
Am I missing something?
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 05-02-2018 at 10:48 PM.
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Lady Penelope (05-02-2018)
#52
The following users liked this post:
Don B (05-02-2018)
#53
This weekend took the car on a long trip just to check the tripmeter and ensure that the milage that it had on the display actually matched to real world. (Also played a little golf ) Well the were almost dead on. I would say 90% of the milage this weekend came from Highway driving. I averaged 22.1 MPGs. Seems pretty crappy? Checked all the fault logs and there were no issues. Everything seemed to be running clean. Is 22.1 normal and what else could I check. It does still say I am running rich but I will be changing out the manifold this week and looking for any other leaks.
#54
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