Anyone have the Mina Gallery RS Spoiler?
#61
That part's gotta be a typo. The 3-piece splitter by itself adds up to about $600 and is the next three items on the page. The part number is right for the speed pack/upgrade spoiler, though, so I'm going to take my chances and see what they end up shipping.
#62
Whelp, I just got my Mina spoiler back from the painters, and it looks fantastic. I'm now in the middle of installing it and have already come to one huge conclusion.....
Don't Buy This Thing! I should have listened to Jahummer and bought an OEM.
First off, it took a good bit of work to make it nice and flat before it went for paint. There were pinholes on most of the edges and that made it take a bit longer than it should.
Then, there are no mounting holes in it, just the bosses to make your own mounting holes and such. Not good for someone who isn't at lest a little bit handy with tools and such.
THEN there is the Pissed-me-off part, and somewhat I blame myself for not doing a dry-fit like I "always" do, although THIS part would be difficult to remedy regardless......
THE DANG HOLE FOR THE CHMSL (3rd brake light) IS TOO STUPID SMALL FOR THE LIGHT HOUSING!!! Not by a barely noticeable margin either; pushed flat against the spoiler, both of the sharp ends of the lens stick into the air a good 1/16" at least. NOT GOOD. A bunch of fiberglass would have needed to be removed to make this thing fit right. NOW I have to machine down the ends and sides of the lens (instead of working the hole, which is now painted) to HOPEFULLY make it fit without looking stupid. More work, more work, more work.
Therefore, I can (at this point) highly UN-recommend this Mina RS spoiler for anyone who wants to buy a spoiler and bolt it on.
However...... if one likes to tinker around and have a small challenge, then buy one of these. Like I said in the First Sentence, it DOES look fantastic with all the work I did, then plus the great paint the shop put down.
Me, I don't Mind tinkering and such, but then when there is even more piled on that is unexpected and UNnecessary, it gets to be more ***-pain than it's worth.
Once I get all these mounting holes done up, reshape the brake light lens (and maybe a bit of housing), then get it installed and adjusted, it'll probably look great.
THEREFORE, if you just want a spoiler and none of the fuss, PAY the extra for an OEM, you'll be really glad you did. If you want a project for a month or so, go ahead and buy the Mina version, you'll eventually like it (if you don't get mad and smash it first).
Don't Buy This Thing! I should have listened to Jahummer and bought an OEM.
First off, it took a good bit of work to make it nice and flat before it went for paint. There were pinholes on most of the edges and that made it take a bit longer than it should.
Then, there are no mounting holes in it, just the bosses to make your own mounting holes and such. Not good for someone who isn't at lest a little bit handy with tools and such.
THEN there is the Pissed-me-off part, and somewhat I blame myself for not doing a dry-fit like I "always" do, although THIS part would be difficult to remedy regardless......
THE DANG HOLE FOR THE CHMSL (3rd brake light) IS TOO STUPID SMALL FOR THE LIGHT HOUSING!!! Not by a barely noticeable margin either; pushed flat against the spoiler, both of the sharp ends of the lens stick into the air a good 1/16" at least. NOT GOOD. A bunch of fiberglass would have needed to be removed to make this thing fit right. NOW I have to machine down the ends and sides of the lens (instead of working the hole, which is now painted) to HOPEFULLY make it fit without looking stupid. More work, more work, more work.
Therefore, I can (at this point) highly UN-recommend this Mina RS spoiler for anyone who wants to buy a spoiler and bolt it on.
However...... if one likes to tinker around and have a small challenge, then buy one of these. Like I said in the First Sentence, it DOES look fantastic with all the work I did, then plus the great paint the shop put down.
Me, I don't Mind tinkering and such, but then when there is even more piled on that is unexpected and UNnecessary, it gets to be more ***-pain than it's worth.
Once I get all these mounting holes done up, reshape the brake light lens (and maybe a bit of housing), then get it installed and adjusted, it'll probably look great.
THEREFORE, if you just want a spoiler and none of the fuss, PAY the extra for an OEM, you'll be really glad you did. If you want a project for a month or so, go ahead and buy the Mina version, you'll eventually like it (if you don't get mad and smash it first).
The following 3 users liked this post by Cee Jay:
#63
Cee Jay, I'm currently working on a Mina RS two piece wing and am finding some to the same kind of issues as you. So far nothing I can't handle but certainly much more than I had envisioned. Like you, I think it will look fine in the end but OEM would have been much easier to work with I'm sure. On the other hand, OEM would have been at a cost point I was not willing to undertake, so I guess "you get what you pay for". Lets both just hope all works out as we had hoped in the beginning.
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Cee Jay (05-07-2018)
#64
MORE update:
Now that I have the CHMSL almost fit (could still use some help) I lined everything up and drilled out the mounting holes........ annnnddddddd the spoiler won't sit flat. It is twisted a bit and the center of the base where it sits on the boot lid isn't concave enough, so both the leading edge and the bottom edge (back end of the boot lid) will NOT both touch the lid at the same time, the spoiler rocks back and forth. I ground down the center three mounting bosses that stick up from the deck lid but that only helped marginally. ALSO, both the outboard ends of the spoiler refuse to lay flat. BOTH sides are above the lid a good 1/8th of an inch and no provisions to pull them down other than double-stick tape which would only hold for a short time (first bump), and probably misshape the deck lid in the meantime.
I am VERY close to calling this a FAIL and put the old one back on. $500 and a lot of my time, totally WASTED.
DO NOT BUY BODY PANELS FROM MINA GALLERIES!!! .
Now that I have the CHMSL almost fit (could still use some help) I lined everything up and drilled out the mounting holes........ annnnddddddd the spoiler won't sit flat. It is twisted a bit and the center of the base where it sits on the boot lid isn't concave enough, so both the leading edge and the bottom edge (back end of the boot lid) will NOT both touch the lid at the same time, the spoiler rocks back and forth. I ground down the center three mounting bosses that stick up from the deck lid but that only helped marginally. ALSO, both the outboard ends of the spoiler refuse to lay flat. BOTH sides are above the lid a good 1/8th of an inch and no provisions to pull them down other than double-stick tape which would only hold for a short time (first bump), and probably misshape the deck lid in the meantime.
I am VERY close to calling this a FAIL and put the old one back on. $500 and a lot of my time, totally WASTED.
DO NOT BUY BODY PANELS FROM MINA GALLERIES!!! .
Last edited by Cee Jay; 05-07-2018 at 10:03 PM.
#65
#66
Already snapped, I'm otherwise engaged in reinstalling Windows 7 on my laptop because the SDD install took a ****, it didn't work due to 'missing files' and it was not Uninstallable. Also couldn't reload on top because 'Newer Version Installed', so a HDD wipe and fresh windows, then I'll spend ANOTHER three hours reinstalling SDD and DA drivers. Anyway, I digress......
As you can see, the spoiler is just plain wrong. The hole for the brake light is not shaped right, with gaps and wrong curvature. You should have seen the fit BEFORE I made it 300% better than it was. Gads.
Then, the gaps at both outside ends of the spoiler itself are way high, and that's with the mounting points tight to the deck lid. They push down, but ten pounds of rebound would pull up any tape and bolting the ends down by drilling extra holes and adding nutplates may possibly distort the lid eventually. I took a couple pictures of the gaps on the top-front and rear-bottom, but the gaps weren't discernible in the pics so I won't include.
The Stiffening Bar idea may be doable, but I won't know until I take it off and apart again. It'd really suck to have this debacle a COMPLETE waste, maybe I can make it less turdy than it is.
Disregard the dirt, most of it is fiberglass dust from drilling and dremeling......
As you can see, the spoiler is just plain wrong. The hole for the brake light is not shaped right, with gaps and wrong curvature. You should have seen the fit BEFORE I made it 300% better than it was. Gads.
Then, the gaps at both outside ends of the spoiler itself are way high, and that's with the mounting points tight to the deck lid. They push down, but ten pounds of rebound would pull up any tape and bolting the ends down by drilling extra holes and adding nutplates may possibly distort the lid eventually. I took a couple pictures of the gaps on the top-front and rear-bottom, but the gaps weren't discernible in the pics so I won't include.
The Stiffening Bar idea may be doable, but I won't know until I take it off and apart again. It'd really suck to have this debacle a COMPLETE waste, maybe I can make it less turdy than it is.
Disregard the dirt, most of it is fiberglass dust from drilling and dremeling......
#67
Cee Jay,
Wow man, I feel for you. Shooting straight you need to box that up and ship it back to Mina for a Refund. I feel pretty sure Chris will do that for you in this case. I know it is not going to recoup all your costs, but better than nothing.
Beyond that put it up on Ebay disclosing all the issues and who knows, you might be surprised.
3rd option it to toss it and move on.
FWIW, last I checked there is still one available for your year model where I got mine. Cost is $304 (at current exchange rate) plus $100+ in shipping from UK. They were painted Ultimate Black but never installed. The only other option I can think of is buy a new one from Jag C2P17584XXX for $722, or get the 2012-up version and deal with one connector/wiring change new from Jag C2P22257XXX for $483.
Other than all that, I got nothing, sorry.
Hope you have a better day,
Dave
Wow man, I feel for you. Shooting straight you need to box that up and ship it back to Mina for a Refund. I feel pretty sure Chris will do that for you in this case. I know it is not going to recoup all your costs, but better than nothing.
Beyond that put it up on Ebay disclosing all the issues and who knows, you might be surprised.
3rd option it to toss it and move on.
FWIW, last I checked there is still one available for your year model where I got mine. Cost is $304 (at current exchange rate) plus $100+ in shipping from UK. They were painted Ultimate Black but never installed. The only other option I can think of is buy a new one from Jag C2P17584XXX for $722, or get the 2012-up version and deal with one connector/wiring change new from Jag C2P22257XXX for $483.
Other than all that, I got nothing, sorry.
Hope you have a better day,
Dave
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Cee Jay (05-08-2018)
#68
Dang that really sucks. I would send it back to him and tell him to send you back one that fits perfect and is painted.. call it good and never buy from the guy again. That to me sounds like the only plan without having to buy another one. I was going to order carbon fiber mirror covers but glad I didnt. And Im pissed they cost $200 for the little mirror covers but if you have a 2009 or up XK they are $100 for the pair...on ebay... doh..
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Cee Jay (05-08-2018)
#69
I have a Mina spoiler on my XJ that had the ends sticking up a bit the same way. Before installation, I too was concerned, but the double-sided trim tape that was provided is more than enough to keep it flexed into proper position. I've seriously tried to yank and pry it off and it will not budge. You'll rip the trunk lock off before my spoiler goes anywhere.
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Cee Jay (05-08-2018)
#70
The poor fit around the lamp would bother me more than the lifting ends. Even if you tape them down and they stay, the lamp fit still looks poor quality. Pity it's painted as I don't think there's a ton of rework to get it to fit. Tape the body and lamp and use them as a guide to fill the gaps.
#71
I have a Mina spoiler on my XJ that had the ends sticking up a bit the same way. Before installation, I too was concerned, but the double-sided trim tape that was provided is more than enough to keep it flexed into proper position. I've seriously tried to yank and pry it off and it will not budge. You'll rip the trunk lock off before my spoiler goes anywhere.
#72
Having seen the pictures of your XJ spoiler I don't think there is a comparison of this one. Yours is rather thin and looks more pliable where this one is constructed differently and is much heaver. I don't think you could bend the ends down with the tape and expect them to stay.
#73
The poor fit around the lamp would bother me more than the lifting ends. Even if you tape them down and they stay, the lamp fit still looks poor quality. Pity it's painted as I don't think there's a ton of rework to get it to fit. Tape the body and lamp and use them as a guide to fill the gaps.
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Cee Jay (05-08-2018)
#74
Cee Jay,
Wow man, I feel for you. Shooting straight you need to box that up and ship it back to Mina for a Refund. I feel pretty sure Chris will do that for you in this case. I know it is not going to recoup all your costs, but better than nothing.
Beyond that put it up on Ebay disclosing all the issues and who knows, you might be surprised.
3rd option it to toss it and move on.
FWIW, last I checked there is still one available for your year model where I got mine. Cost is $304 (at current exchange rate) plus $100+ in shipping from UK. They were painted Ultimate Black but never installed. The only other option I can think of is buy a new one from Jag C2P17584XXX for $722, or get the 2012-up version and deal with one connector/wiring change new from Jag C2P22257XXX for $483.
Other than all that, I got nothing, sorry.
Hope you have a better day,
Dave
Wow man, I feel for you. Shooting straight you need to box that up and ship it back to Mina for a Refund. I feel pretty sure Chris will do that for you in this case. I know it is not going to recoup all your costs, but better than nothing.
Beyond that put it up on Ebay disclosing all the issues and who knows, you might be surprised.
3rd option it to toss it and move on.
FWIW, last I checked there is still one available for your year model where I got mine. Cost is $304 (at current exchange rate) plus $100+ in shipping from UK. They were painted Ultimate Black but never installed. The only other option I can think of is buy a new one from Jag C2P17584XXX for $722, or get the 2012-up version and deal with one connector/wiring change new from Jag C2P22257XXX for $483.
Other than all that, I got nothing, sorry.
Hope you have a better day,
Dave
I hope Cee Jay gets it squared away. His paint job does look very good on that piece,
Would that spoiler in the UK fit my 2012 XKR? I was unsure how much modification it would need.
Joe
#75
Having seen the pictures of your XJ spoiler I don't think there is a comparison of this one. Yours is rather thin and looks more pliable where this one is constructed differently and is much heaver. I don't think you could bend the ends down with the tape and expect them to stay.
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jagtoes (05-09-2018)
#76
By the time you pay shipping across the pond, you will be close to the cost of getting a brand new 2012-up that will fit yours perfectly, 2012-up new from Jag C2P22257XXX is $483.
Cheers,
Dave
#77
I take 90% responsibility for the poor fit of the brake light. While I spent over an hour assuring the Rest of the spoiler was super flat, I totally spaced even checking if the light hole was close. Guess I assumed that it would fit fine, because THAT'S ITS PURPOSE.
Ten minutes to remove the light from my car and one minute of a dry fit and I'd have known that another hour or so of body work would be required to make a perfect fit.
I got excited to see it done and failed on my diligence. It bit me hard on the ***.
I will now try my dangdest to carefully contour the hole for that brake light without messing up any of the Outside paint, trying to keep to the joining edge as much as possible. A little touch-up paint and it may be OK.
Of course, there is probably nothing I can do about the stick-into-the-air ends of the whole thing...........
Next time, OEM.
Ten minutes to remove the light from my car and one minute of a dry fit and I'd have known that another hour or so of body work would be required to make a perfect fit.
I got excited to see it done and failed on my diligence. It bit me hard on the ***.
I will now try my dangdest to carefully contour the hole for that brake light without messing up any of the Outside paint, trying to keep to the joining edge as much as possible. A little touch-up paint and it may be OK.
Of course, there is probably nothing I can do about the stick-into-the-air ends of the whole thing...........
Next time, OEM.
#78
I take 90% responsibility for the poor fit of the brake light. While I spent over an hour assuring the Rest of the spoiler was super flat, I totally spaced even checking if the light hole was close. Guess I assumed that it would fit fine, because THAT'S ITS PURPOSE.
Ten minutes to remove the light from my car and one minute of a dry fit and I'd have known that another hour or so of body work would be required to make a perfect fit.
I got excited to see it done and failed on my diligence. It bit me hard on the ***.
I will now try my dangdest to carefully contour the hole for that brake light without messing up any of the Outside paint, trying to keep to the joining edge as much as possible. A little touch-up paint and it may be OK.
Of course, there is probably nothing I can do about the stick-into-the-air ends of the whole thing...........
Next time, OEM.
Ten minutes to remove the light from my car and one minute of a dry fit and I'd have known that another hour or so of body work would be required to make a perfect fit.
I got excited to see it done and failed on my diligence. It bit me hard on the ***.
I will now try my dangdest to carefully contour the hole for that brake light without messing up any of the Outside paint, trying to keep to the joining edge as much as possible. A little touch-up paint and it may be OK.
Of course, there is probably nothing I can do about the stick-into-the-air ends of the whole thing...........
Next time, OEM.
https://scratchwizard.net/scratch-re...lear-coat.html
Also, I know this may be a stupid question, but you did make sure the two end fasteners are the right size and pushed in and holding correctly? Just from the pics it looks like the fasteners may not be holding the spoiler down to the boot lid properly at the ends...
Last edited by TexasTraveler; 05-09-2018 at 12:35 PM.
#79
Cee Jay, just in case you may need touch up paint or repaint, here is a link to where you can get paint for your spoiler and do it yourself if you want....
https://scratchwizard.net/scratch-re...lear-coat.html
Also, I know this may be a stupid question, but you did make sure the two end fasteners are the right size and pushed in and holding correctly? Just from the pics it looks like the fasteners may not be holding the spoiler down to the boot lid properly at the ends...
https://scratchwizard.net/scratch-re...lear-coat.html
Also, I know this may be a stupid question, but you did make sure the two end fasteners are the right size and pushed in and holding correctly? Just from the pics it looks like the fasteners may not be holding the spoiler down to the boot lid properly at the ends...
Also, there is no provision on the outside eight inches on the spoiler for a fastener. The OEM push-type connectors do go into holes on the deck towards the outside ends, but the Mina spoiler is totally flat in that area, and the push connectors have that washer-type retainer that would by itself lift the spoiler off the deck. I suppose I could recess the area where the push retainers go, but those don't really secure tightly, mostly locate. I COULD again install captive nuts in the spoiler and put bolts up through the deck lid, but those areas are covered by the lid structure and would require cutting or drilling on the aluminum to gain access to the inside. ... which is why the two-faced tape comes into play.
What I WILL do for now is leave it as it sits and finish (re-re)installing SDD to MAKE THIS STUPID FAKRA CAMERA WORK!!!!!!!!!!!
Dang it, I can't catch a break anywhere!!!!!!
#80
Cee Jay, just in case you may need touch up paint or repaint, here is a link to where you can get paint for your spoiler and do it yourself if you want.. I did this for my front spliter and rear camera plinth. It's color matched perfect and if you have some experience with spray paint you will get great results... I used the following spay can paint kit in a small make shift paint booth (plastic sheeting) in my garage. Although I probably wouldn't do this for a large body panels, I think its a great option for small parts, such as your spoiler. I have dealt with scratch wizard on a couple different occasions and they have great customer service and quick shipping and the paint has been a dead match every time, including my Lunar Grey... Just an option if needed...
After following Cee Jay's woes and reading your post I'm off to the paint shop tomorrow to have them shoot my wing. I've got the rattle can color and CC for it but am now thinking it might be asking too much for such a large panel. I can always use thse materials for small jobs later and I'm sure a pro is going to do a much better job than me!
Cee Jay....keep the faith, I know you'll be proud of it in the end.
The following 2 users liked this post by pwpacp:
Cee Jay (05-09-2018),
TexasTraveler (05-10-2018)