ronbros
what Vehicle and year is that
I can actually see the spark plugs, I am still looking for them on mine

 

pic 1978 Jaguar XJS coupe converted to roadster by Aston Martin coach works , around 1980/81 ish.

 

Y'all are making me self conscious about updating this thread, lol... jeeeeeze!

 

very nice

 

its just an OLD Jag!

but i love the money suckin bitch.

 

Hello All...

I appreciate all your help, suggestions and input! Things went well, she is running differently but better overall. This work has sent me on a path to work on - other things! Which is good.

So, I completely removed the inlet FPR and tied directly into the fuel rail from the fuel supply line. It went together easy and I left myself enough hose (an inch or two) to go back in and use ferrells rather than the special (but basic) fuel clamps. I've seen some NICE brass and silver-ish ferrells and have a question about the SIZE? Its a 5/16 hose,,, what does that mean for ferrell size?

All reman replacement fuel injectors went in well, new hose sections and old large rubber collars were still in perfect condition and reused. Smaller o-rings replaced. No leaks and everything is tight. Tested leakage using electric connection cleaner, spraying around FI seats. I've learned that IF the electrical cleaner spray gets pulled into the intake at leaks, there will be a noticeable difference in idle. There was none.

Refit new outlet FPR, refit new OEM section fuel pipe from the rail outlet to the FPR and eliminated the curvy one for the fuel cooler to return. Directly from FPR to return hose. Used gates 5/16 hose, ran it under the intake manifold with a slight curve down and to the steel return receiver at the fire wall. What a PITA fitting to the return UNDER all of the ABS and braking stuff. But all is well.

In the boot. Replace a section of hose from the swirl/sump tank to the fuel pump with 1/2 inch fuel hose. Kept it low with consideration of gravity feed. Rearranged some stuff in there. Replaced fuel filter and remounted re-positioning hoses and what not. Things are sitting well. Im still poking at that "new" Mercedes 4.5 bar fuel pump. Didn't work out of the box and I am trying to free the guts up and get it spinning or I will return it. Using old fuel pump now which sounds MUCH better, not whining like it was before. A good thing.

>>>>> As it turns OUT my fuel gauge IS reading correctly. HAHAHA someone stole/siphoned gas out of my tank!!! Almost a whole tanks worth! I've ordered a "new" fuel cap from ebay with a KEY! GDamnit... Times are tough in the hood it would seem.

Got in, turned her over and she fired right up. Idling higher/differently/rougher than before as she warmed - as if one bank was set differently than the other..... I started poking around. Backed off two very tiny nutt and bolt combinations on both throttles and locked them back so they are barely touching the 'stop'. They were set slightly differently on each side - no good. That helped, a LOT! Then, removed both throttle linkage arms from the pegs on the capstan and just let them rest. This changed (lowered) the idle. I replaced them one at a time and found that the drivers side link arm changed (raised) the idle. I loosened the lockers on that arm slightly and reset. Idle settled much lower than before GOOD. I was PLEASED. Also,,, I noticed that the throttle linkage bushings were missing. (I"D KNOWN) So I called Pauls in Florida and got 4 - and two new RAD caps to boot. They are on there way.

Heres the thing - I believe I'm going to need folks to walk me thru replacing the linkage bushings. When I try to approximate centering the rods by hand it brings my already shaky idle - UP... I'll be revisiting this thread asking for some guidance once I get those little bush bits and try to install.

Over all,,, I feel like the work was a success.

--

 

Very good work, many congratulations. The round spindle bearings just press in, a bit of lube helps. Reset the idle after they are in.
I would leave the fuel hose clips as is, and forget the ferrules - assuming you are talking about the fuel rail connections from the pump and to the return from the FPR? You can see if they are OK, they are easy to tighten and leaks are obvious. Push-on non-machine-made-OEM ferrules in this application are really bits of bling/trim. Don't risk it.

 

I hear you about the bling. I'm not a bling guy. Not at all. At the same time,,, with all of the possibilities,,, my mind wanders. With fuel, practical and safe is perfect. So I will gladly take your suggestion for the fuel lines.

 

A few snaps

First drive out. To replace the STOLEN gas, lol. Omg

 

With all due respect to Greg and at the risk of flogging a horse that well past being dead and has been for some time, the ferrules are not bling and if truly worried about fuel system safety ferrules are precisely what you would use. Did you happen to feel the barbs when you had the fittings apart? They are sharp.

 

Yes. They are. So,,, what's your take? Sharpe ='s ?

 

Sharp is not good when you clamp down a hose on the sharp. The ferrules are a slip fit over the hose and prevent any expansion of the hose to the point where it may let go of the barbs, they do not press the hose to the barbs in the way clamps do. Even the efi clamps still apply a squeezing force of hose to a very sharp surface and were only meant for use on a barb of different design.
Sorry for the rant but as we know these cars do not do well when fuel systems are compromised.

 

I hear that and it makes sense. At the same time I think what aughta be taken into account is the design and make up of the hose. When I was pushing my hose sections onto the barbs, either the FI or the smaller barbs on the inlet and return lines at the fire wall it seemed l like the make up, the substance that lines the hoses interior, was very shape-able... Like without much effort it was able to take the shape of whatever it was pushed over on the INTERIOR side of the hose. The inner wall was squishy,,,, for lack of a better word. So much that when I made a mistake and had to remove it from the barb, whatever is on the inside had already taken the shape of the barb to the point of being stuck. It felt very soft, tho.

On the other hand,,, the outside of the hose felt firm, ridged, and was tough as nails... When I was tightening down the clamp on the outer surface of the hose it almost did nothing to change the shape of the surface of the hose,,, and,,, because I had gotten a sense of the make up of the hose innards make up, I could imagine that squeezing down got the soft gut to nicely take the shape of the barb but not pushing thru so much as to run the danger of coming thru the hose wall. Didn't even feel close to being able to push thru that far. The hose wall over all seemed MUCH thicker than the depth of the barb. Much much thicker.

In your experience have you ever removed a clamp type fitting to find that rows of barbs had actually push all the way thru the innards of the hose to where you can see it on the surface of the hose itself?

 

Short answer is no but there is a chance of the inner barrier being compromised.
Jaguar gets bagged on a regular basis for cheapskate things they did so it would stand to reason if clamps (have to be cheaper process than ferrules) on all the fuel lines were OK they probably would have had them fitted at the factory.

 

Now,,, I have touched almost everything in the fueling system,,, front to BACK... LOL. Stealing gas. With key, now.
Stopping gas thieves in there tracks...