Stering kicks to the right
#1
Stering kicks to the right
Hi all.
Recent purchase (95 XJS 4.0 2+2 Conv) December last year, and just now really getting a chance to drive it as the weather is getting warmer in the Northeast USA.
Just what the post title says, car drives straight but any imperfections in the road, dips, drains, etc, and the steering and suspension kicks right. I know i need shocks in the front but not convinced that would cause a kick to the right tendency, unless anyone thinks differently. Could even a straight tracking steering with excessive toe- out cause what is happening? Can you have a toe- out condition and still track straight? Any worn suspension parts cause this condition?
Any advice or experience with similar, I'm all ears.
Thanks
Recent purchase (95 XJS 4.0 2+2 Conv) December last year, and just now really getting a chance to drive it as the weather is getting warmer in the Northeast USA.
Just what the post title says, car drives straight but any imperfections in the road, dips, drains, etc, and the steering and suspension kicks right. I know i need shocks in the front but not convinced that would cause a kick to the right tendency, unless anyone thinks differently. Could even a straight tracking steering with excessive toe- out cause what is happening? Can you have a toe- out condition and still track straight? Any worn suspension parts cause this condition?
Any advice or experience with similar, I'm all ears.
Thanks
#2
My findings with too many Jags over too many years.
Rubber components at 18 years and beyond are in need of renewal, and it has nothing to do with distance traveled. Lower inner wishbone bushes are #1, followed very closely by the upper inners.
I have always simple done balljoints and rubber bits within the 1st month of any "new" Jag joining the fleet. Sounds over kill, but I have said many times, do it all, do it right, repeat in 15 years.
Binding lower balljoints are a common thing I have had on near all mine with the same symptoms you mention.
YES, geometry badly set up is also a concern, and getting that spot on is paramount, and not always the easiest to find the right guy to do the right thing.
Rubber components at 18 years and beyond are in need of renewal, and it has nothing to do with distance traveled. Lower inner wishbone bushes are #1, followed very closely by the upper inners.
I have always simple done balljoints and rubber bits within the 1st month of any "new" Jag joining the fleet. Sounds over kill, but I have said many times, do it all, do it right, repeat in 15 years.
Binding lower balljoints are a common thing I have had on near all mine with the same symptoms you mention.
YES, geometry badly set up is also a concern, and getting that spot on is paramount, and not always the easiest to find the right guy to do the right thing.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 06-07-2018 at 04:18 AM. Reason: spelling still sucks
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orangeblossom (06-06-2018)
#3
Had the same issue on my 1996, which is at 80 K. there are 2 succinct causes:
1. The lower A arm bushing, front one had no rubber bushing material left. I was able to remove it without taking the spring and the lower A arm out. i was lucky, I was able to slide the inner metal part of the bushing off the long bolt. Then froze the new bushing and tapped - pried - pressed with a lever until it got in far enough to use the nut to seat it.
2. The alignment was totally toed out. I am sure some genius sold the previous owner an alignment with bad bushing. I adjusted the toe to specs and now it tracks perfectly and does not wander when brakes are applied.
1. The lower A arm bushing, front one had no rubber bushing material left. I was able to remove it without taking the spring and the lower A arm out. i was lucky, I was able to slide the inner metal part of the bushing off the long bolt. Then froze the new bushing and tapped - pried - pressed with a lever until it got in far enough to use the nut to seat it.
2. The alignment was totally toed out. I am sure some genius sold the previous owner an alignment with bad bushing. I adjusted the toe to specs and now it tracks perfectly and does not wander when brakes are applied.
The following users liked this post:
Grant Francis (06-07-2018)
#4
Had the same issue on my 1996, which is at 80 K. there are 2 succinct causes:
1. The lower A arm bushing, front one had no rubber bushing material left. I was able to remove it without taking the spring and the lower A arm out. i was lucky, I was able to slide the inner metal part of the bushing off the long bolt. Then froze the new bushing and tapped - pried - pressed with a lever until it got in far enough to use the nut to seat it.
2. The alignment was totally toed out. I am sure some genius sold the previous owner an alignment with bad bushing. I adjusted the toe to specs and now it tracks perfectly and does not wander when brakes are applied.
1. The lower A arm bushing, front one had no rubber bushing material left. I was able to remove it without taking the spring and the lower A arm out. i was lucky, I was able to slide the inner metal part of the bushing off the long bolt. Then froze the new bushing and tapped - pried - pressed with a lever until it got in far enough to use the nut to seat it.
2. The alignment was totally toed out. I am sure some genius sold the previous owner an alignment with bad bushing. I adjusted the toe to specs and now it tracks perfectly and does not wander when brakes are applied.
Thoughts?
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