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I've had the blower fan quit on my 2004 Vanden Plas and I'm taking the advice of another poster to replace the fan blower relay.
I can't seen to get the glove box off though. I've followed the instructions from Jaguar Tech Info but still cant get it off. Are there any tricks to doing this?
I cant get the power socket electrical connector loose either so the shelf won't come out.
I'm in Houston and it's starting to get hot. I need to fix this fast. I'd appreciate any advice.
There is a common fault on the X350 which causes the fan to stop working. The fault is due to (I think) power transistor on the climate control module which is located at the side of the housing behind the centre console. The component which fails is finned to dissipate heat but sounds like it still can overheat. If your car is LHD then the module is on the other side. Might be an idea to check this first and maybe get around your present problem?
the power transistor (or blower motor relay).... is what he is replacing behind the glove box.. have to remove the lower screws i think there is 6 and a few at the top inside the box.. then it shud come out..
I have a 2004 Jaguar XJR and encountered the same problem described by the OP, and found this thread through Google, but unfortunately there was nothing on this thread to help me. I ended up puzzling over this for three hours, taking digital pictures of what needed to be unplugged, reading forums about car electrical connectors in general, poring through Jaguar service manuals, etc.
Finally, since I could not find anything definitive, I made my best educated guess based on studying a picture I took (it was too cramped in there to be able to see directly, but my camera could make it in there, and I could see a bit better using the camera), and finally, I got the electrical connector off of the cigarette lighter socket.
Since the original post was two years ago, it is no doubt too late to help the original poster, but maybe this will help someone else who, like me, stumbles upon it.
See attachment -- for a picture of the orange electrical connector which I found at the back of the cigaratte socket, and which part I had to push, to get the darned thing to come off.
This aspect took the most effort, and everything else was tedious but did not take nearly as long (I think I spent a total of 6 hours on this, and 3 of that was to figure this particular thing out).
This is a picture I took of the electrical connector connecting the accessory power socket to the car's elecrical system, located inside a 2004 Jaguar XJR glove box, which had to be disconnected in order to remove the glove box, to be able to change out the HVAC blower module, per original poster's description. I've posted this because it was relevant to the original poster's query, and for the benefit of anyone else who finds they need to change out the HVAC blower module and find they can't disconnect this electrical connector.
I did a write up on GLOVE BOX REMOVAL in this forum section.
DON'T UNPLUG ANYTHING! The glove box will sit on the floor with all plugs connected. There are small screws by the bolts under the box that will drive you nuts if you didn't know that they are there. I included pictures of where they are.
I have a 2003 XJ6 X350 V6 3.0L and have a problem with the HVAC system shutting down after a short period.
When I start the car from cold with the AC in Auto, the blower starts and I can feel air coming out the vents. The blower will run for about 5 - 20 seconds and then just shuts down. Once it shuts down I can select the HVAC options (manual and auto) on the touch screen, but nothing happens, and if I switch the ignition off and back on again the blower doesn't run. If I leave it for a while (say overnight) and start the car, the blower comes on but again shuts down after about 5 - 20 seconds.
I've read through the X350 HVAC threads on the forum, but can't see any with a problem similar to mine. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
What you very likely have is a defective blower module. I mean, you can pretty well count on it. Unfortunately, it's an absolute pain to replace the module, but then again, nothing is easy to service in the Jaguar. Even worse, everything comes off far easier than it goes back in while replacing the blower module. Jaguar engineers should be ashamed of themselves for concocting a horrible mess like that. In the two photos, this was the original blower module in my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L that I had to replace back in 2018. I subsequently repaired the module, and hope that I never have to use it.
Thanks for the prompt response. I had read some of the thread references to the blower module, but I thought that caused the blower not to start at all. You clearly have some experience with it, so if you think it is likely to be the blower module the I'll read more detail about replacing/repairing the module.
Thanks for the prompt response. I had read some of the thread references to the blower module, but I thought that caused the blower not to start at all. You clearly have some experience with it, so if you think it is likely to be the blower module the I'll read more detail about replacing/repairing the module.
Thanks Again
It has been a while since I replaced the blower module on my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L. If you plan on replacing the module yourself, you're going to need a voltmeter handy to verify that the blower module is indeed defective (the procedure can be found in the 'Sticky' thread). To do that, you'll want to remove the bottom plastic panel that is located underneath the glove box (which is simple enough). From there, you're going to want to check a couple of pin voltages on the jack which feeds the blower module. If I remember correctly, one of those pins will verify that you have a +12VDC source, and the other pin will show whether or not that you have +12VDC feeding the blower module. Be sure that you use a good earth ground when checking those voltages. In my case, I used a jumper that tied directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Good luck!
Thanks for the additional information. I saw a new blower module on eBay at Ł26, so took a chance and ordered it. I'll report back on this thread if it fixes the problem.
The new blower module arrived today, so I removed the panel beneath the glove box and thought I would check the blower motor voltage before trying to replace the blower module, as you suggested. I connected a mulimeter to the blower connecter using back probe pins, so that I could monitor the voltage. When I switched the ignition on, the HVAC system started and kept running, instead of shutting down after 5-20 seconds as it had been doing. I tried both the automatic and manual modes and all worked OK. I let it run for about 20 minutes without an issue.
Although I'm glad it's working again, it's annoying that I didn't identify the cause of the problem. All I did was to: move the front passenger seat all the way back; remove the panel under the glovebox; and push the back probe pins into the blower motor connection block.
I'm very glad that the blower is now running, but if it should fail again, here are some tips:
1. After turning on the Climate Control,(with the blower fan at maximum setting), insert the positive voltmeter lead onto the white wire, and the negative voltmeter lead onto the dark wire which would be on the plug that connects directly to the blower fan.
2. Absent a DC voltage, leave the positive voltmeter lead onto the white wire, and place the negative voltmeter lead onto a known good ground (preferably the negative terminal of the battery).
3. If the voltmeter now registers a DC voltage, then the blower module is likely defective.
4. As a second check, turn on the Climate Control again, and manually ground the dark wire (not the white wire) of the plug which leads directly to the blower fan. If the fan runs, then you would know that the fan itself is working.
5. The way that this works is that the white wire of the blower fan is always tied to +12VDC while the dark wire of the blower fan is variably grounded (depending on the Climate Control Blower Setting)
via the blower module.
Things have developed a bit further. I took the car out for a short run and the HVAC worked for about 15 minutes before shutting down again. I was having trouble with the front passenger door lock and I moved the passenger seat fully back and the HVAC started working again. I don't know what route the wiring takes, but maybe a connecter is loose, some wires are grounding, or similar.
To make matters worse, the front passenger door lock is now stuck in the deadlock position and I can't open the front passenger door. That's going to take my attention to fix before looking further into the HVAC problem.
Having fixed the front passenger door locked in the deadlocked position, and I will update the thread on that issue shortly, I got back to my intermittent HVAC blower problem.
To recap, the HVAC on my Jaguar (XJ6 X350 3.0L RHD UK Model) was working intermittently. It would work for anything from 5 seconds to about 20 minutes before shutting down and then eventually it stopped working completely. I was also having problems with the front passenger door lock and, in the process of looking into that, I moved the front passengers seat fully back and the HVAC started up. Initially, I thought this was an indication that the HVAC problem was a loose connection, or grounding problem, that was being affected by the seat position. I now know it was just co-incidence that the HVAC started up when I moved the passenger seat.
Using the guidance given by Glendoramike I dropped the glove box to gain access to the blower module. By moving the connector, which plugs into the blower module, from side to side I could switch the blower on and off. Initially, I thought the problem was a poor connection in the plug wiring. On inspection, the wiring in the plug looked good, so I removed the blower module and reconnected the plug. Again I could switch the blower on and off by simply moving the plug. I connected a new blower module and it fixed the problem, so the old blower module was indeed the cause of the problem.
I opened the old module up and had a good look around for a dry joint, but could not see anything obvious. I think the faulty module has either a dry joint, or perhaps a break in a track on the pcb. I'll have a detailed inspection of it when I have time.