I have a 2002 Jaguar X-type with premium sound system (or at least I think it is). I have replaced the door speakers and am very happy with them. I am now trying to set up two replacement speakers in the box under the rear deck. I have the speakers in place and wanted to use the existing wires to install an after market amplifier. The amplifier I am wanting to replace is the one inside the speaker box, that only has two output wires, which are red and black and eleven input wires. The input wires are 2-light blue, 2- white, 2- black, 2- green, 2- purple, and 1- dark blue. I have no idea what these wires are or why there would be so many of them to control one speaker. The second speaker in the box had no wires connected to it and no magnet or place to connect wires. I have searched the forum, and internet for some kind of diagram and could not find this particular set up. Everyone else that has an amplifier says it is located near the CD changer, I have no amp there, just the one for the sub. If setting up the amplifier this way proves to difficult, I would at least like to know which wires are the speaker wires so I can just hook them up un-amplified. Any help would be appreciated, and thank you for reading. P.S. The stock amplifier does not work.

 

Premium sound systems are 10 speaker, with an amplifier in the (LHD) driver's side trunk (boot). Non premium systems DO NOT have an amplifier ANYWHERE. Some pre 2004+ (the change) DO HAVE front door tweeters (again front only) & some do not with the standard system or was vice versa? Rear no front? Can't remember for sure.

Posting of installing non premium to premium with amp =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ade-faq-64614/

 

REALLY? My car has 6 inch speakers and tweeters in all four doors and a stock box under the rear deck with one amplified sub woofer and a decoy that has no wiring, no place to put wires and no magnet. Have added a photo of the inside of the box to show that, YES, there are amps located in places other then the drivers side rear. I agree this is not the most common set up, which is why I can't find much information on it.

 

They look like aftermarket. Originals are Alpine.
Amp is C2S38104, if you search by part number you can view a parts explosion of the audio system. Like at Virginia Jag, etc.

Here's another link to a standard to better install. Note (no amp originally).

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/126...speaker-issues

 

The speakers are aftermarket, as I mentioned in my original thread, I have already changed them. The amp is not aftermarket, which was the point of my second post.

 

So it only occurs in the first year model =

Originally Posted by Krisfx This is purely a FYI post really just in case you've ever wondered about the subwoofer that's mounted to the underside of the parcel shelf when you have the Premium Sound option. I wondered about it so decided to take it apart for a closer inspection. When you climb into the boot and look upwards, you will clearly spot 5 rather large gold bolts which undo easily. Just be careful to prop up the sub enclosure as if it drops, all of the weight will be taken by the wiring loom which could have consequences. Just unplug the loom and the enclosure can be pulled from the boot Undo the 15 to 20 screws (Cant remember off hand exactly how many but there was a LOT!) and you end up with this..

I had heard rumours but was a little shocked to discover they were true... one of the "subs" is indeed nothing more than a cone, designed I'm guessing, to use the air pressure from the powered sub to increase slightly the bass effect. My car is a 2001/02 model, so it has the Amplifier built into the enclosure rather than mounted to the side of the boot. It's the silver box seen here. Now for the fun bit.... The amplifier is actually pretty good and from what I can gather, it is the speakers which let this system down. So if, like me, you'd rather keep the interior looking standard rather than losing a lot of boot space to aftermarket amplifiers and subwoofer boxes and cutting up door cards to house larger speakers, you have options. Door speakers has been covered several times before I think so I won't go into any detail but if you want more bass without losing any space you will need two of these. Kicker Comp VT 6.5" But you have to make sure you buy the 2 Ohm versions as they would be wired in series so as to keep the load on the amp to the original 4 Ohms. The result should be a HUGE improvement over standard and in theory give similar bass to having a single 12" subwoofer in the boot. This has the advantage of being ported directly into the cabin though, which also increases the bass effect. I should point out that I haven't as yet done this mod myself but I will be going ahead with it as soon as possible.

 

Continuation of the above pasted thread post from another member in a differend forum =

Originally Posted by jimmy
I took a different tactic. I claim that little tin box is an absolute piece of crap amp, and it is not even worth its weight as a paperweight. I took mine apart as in the photos, then I cut the wire leading to the actual speaker. I extended both ends of the wire and made a small hole in the enclosure to pass both wires out of the box. I put it all back together. The non-working speaker looking thing is called a passive radiator (FYI) It acts to artificially increase the space of the enclosure. It moves out of phase with the actual driver, so it wont add bass at all. Then I mounted a decent 200 watt amp to the bottom of the enclosure, It is one that can run "booster style" that means speaker level input (not preamp input). I used the signal from the original amp to supply to the new amp, this way I did not need a seperate crossover. I connected the wire from the original drive to the output of the new amp. There is already a decent power wire run to the back of the car, it is good for 30 amps. The wire is dead from the factory, you will need to plug in a relay into the fuse box under the hood then the accessory wire will come alive! Is is one of several small black ones, go to any scrap yard and get one for a dollar. Or pay the dealer 90 bucks!!! At the yard, go to any same era ford and there will be several in every fuse box of every car. Now this is an easy way to get the early cars premium sound working better. I have not heard the later models premium sound so I cant say how it compares. There is one little trick that is needed, and that is the factory little crap amp has no typical "turn on" wire, and it will not work unless it thinks there is a speaker connected to it. Remember the speaker wire that came from the amp and is now connected to the high level inputs of the new amp? well it needs to have a resistor across it to simulate a speaker. I added a capacitor too, because it was not always turning on when I started the car.

Originally Posted by PreJag
OK. I did the 2? Kicker install last weekend and I have to agree with jimmy that the stock amp leaves a lot to be desired. Sub frequencies are more reinforced with the Kickers, however, if you're looking for big baddaboom, look to a trunk mounted box with separate amp. I'm going to give it a couple weeks to let the new subs break-in. After that I'll probably be looking at a small (~300w max) Class D mono amp that can be installed within the 30a rating of the stock power wiring that's already in the trunk. The Kicker install required reaming of the speaker mounting area with the trusty Dremel using a sanding drum to fit the speaker frames properly. Also, the plastic rims on the subs need to trimmed where they touch together in the center. Otherwise, the install is fairly straightforward. The other thing to consider is ripping out the whole thing & starting from scratch...like I did

 

Jaguar Mechanic response to 2002 Jag owner's "where is amp"?

I am Randall. Very sorry for the delay there is an amp, kind of, it is not like a remote sole amp. the amp is internal to the rear sub woofer speaker. You replace the sub woofer to accomplish changing the amp. I have put the wiring diragram, description from the manual and link of loaction/repair click HERE to upload the link to repair info, description and diagrams follow Optimum acoustic detail is achieved through mounting the speakers high on each door panel, the standard sound system has four speakers. On the premium sound system there are: Four mid bass door speakers.Four door mounted tweeters.Enclosed sub-woofer with integral amplifier mounted beneath the rear parcel shelf.

 

Thank you very much! The wiring diagram is very helpful. Even though my wire colors don't match it is the same number of wires and I believe I can work with that. I had read the other post you have added but did not see this diagram! Thanks again for digging this up!

 

Does anyone know….? The fiber optic cable to the amp in the boot….should both cables be lit? On mine, when unplugged, only one is lit. I am asking because I am getting ready to replace the amp and then I saw this and thought that may be the source of my problem with the door speakers. Thanks.

 

The 2002 is my parts car. I took the parcel shelve speaker box out of the and would like to mount it into my 2004, both had premium sound how the 2002 only has the amp in the sub box and the 2004 doesn't have a amp solely for the sub woofer but has the whole system amp on the back drivers side above the CD changer. How can I make it run both? I think the box with make the speakers (subs) sound much better and with an amp running time both of them....I might almost have what Jaguar is referring and makes u pay extra for this premium sound system which honestly is such a let down. Only problems I have to idea when it comes to electrical stuff. So please advise!!! Thank you. I am kinda excited hopefully this is possible!

 

MainJag, you DO NOT want to run one amp into the other. This normally leads to the second amp going up in smoke unless you do a lot of other things, then you are completely losing the benefits of the first amp. Your best bet would be to open up the box, remove the installed amp, jumper from the incoming wires to the speaker wires and then run things that way.

If you are dead set on trying to make the subs more powerful, this has to be carefully thought out. The first limitation you are going to run into is what the subs can handle themselves. Normally this is written on the magnet of the speaker and will normally be accompanied by another rating. So, you should see something like 4O (where the O is really going to be a funny shaped O or Omega, which stands for ohms). Most car speakers are rated for 4 ohms, but this is not a guarantee. So, you need to look and see. If you don't have that printed on the speaker, let me know and I will tell you how to figure it out. The next thing you should see is something like "50W". This is going to stand for 50 watts (peak). Please notice the added "(peak)". This is going to be important as power is measured in 2 ways, peak and RMS. They are related, but they are completely different monsters. I will relate it this way. If you take a snare drum and give it a quick hit, it gives that quick "pop". In the case of your speaker, that is your speaker quickly jump from its rest state to some distance out. The speaker can only move but so far before you start exceeding something (things striking each other inside the speaker, moving the cone too far and ripping it, etc). Then you have RMS. This is constant power. This number is always lower that peak. This is the maximum power the speaker can handle for a long time (say 5+ minutes) before you start cooking the components of the speaker. For some reason, the speaker industry really doesn't care about RMS, but it is a pretty easy way to destroy a speaker by exceeding the value. When it comes to speakers, a general rule I follow is that RMS power is half of peak power. All you electrical engineers out there, yes, I know it should be 0.707, but if you look at modern day speakers, the manufacturers are quoting peak numbers 3+ times the RMS power in some cases. Explain that.

Sorry for the curve there. Now that you know peak and RMS powers, you can start looking at amps and finding one that will not destroy the speakers you have. Granted, finding one as little as you are probably going to see from the speakers, it is going to be tough in the aftermarket world. Then the amplifier is also going to need what are called "line level inputs". In your case, you are going ot need something that will go up to 10V inputs. These special inputs are what allow you to take the high voltage outputs of one amp and use them to feed a second amp. If you find that the factory sound system is weak on the bass, you are going ot be better off going with new aftermarket subwoofers and getting some that can handle more power and then getting an amp that matches up to those new speakers. The caution here is getting a speaker that is way more capable of handling power than the amp. High power subs are great for low power applications as you will probably never even push the speaker near a limit (there is one, its called distortion, but that is a completely different argument). the problem is though the high power subs are very stiff. So, it may take say 5 watts just to make the cone start to move. At low volumes, that will mean you have no bass and at higher volumes, it is going to quickly exceed the rest of the music and all that you will hear is bass. The rule of thumb I use is the speakers should not be rated for more than twice what the amplifier is putting out. So, a 2x100 watt RMS amp should have 2 speakers, each rated for something between 100 and 200 watts RMS max (this assumes the amp rating is for 4 ohms and the subs are rated for 4 ohms). Some amps can go down to 2 ohms (some lower). If your speakers are rated at 2 ohms, then use that number. The trick is getting your subs at a resistance that your amp can handle. Personally, I would say to keep it simple and just go with 4 ohm subs. I find that they stay a bit crisper wiht the sound generated and don't get sloppy on you.

If you have more stereo questions, please ask. I have been doing car stereo stuff for a long time and will help you get the most for your money. and not make some really complicated set up.