As I mentioned in my other thread related to the VAP ECU Stage II Tune and Lower / Crank Pulley and Plugs upgrades....I will track information and at some point do a DIY with options on Methanol / H20 Injection on the F-Type SC Engine (Do at your own risk).

It appears it is going to take me a bit of time to get this completed like I want, as I am running into issues with fitment etc....But continue to blow money on parts to try different ideas ...

So this is just the start and when concluded, I will create a DIY as mentioned. Have been corresponding with Terrance39 on this forum, who has been helpful with questions on his set-up.

To date, I am going with the AEM 30-3350 Kit as a base. I picked this one because it is good quality (not that others aren't), and it has a multi-function controller, that will allow me to use the 0-5V signal from the MAPT sensor to control the boost (as opposed to drilling another hole in the intake and adding a hose).
I have purchased 2 X DevislOwn 90 Degree Low Profile Nozzle Holders, A DevilsOwn Dual Nozzle Kit, 2X DevilsOwn D03 Nozzles, A sacrificial storage compartment (one idea that is not going to work now ), and I have now ordered some 90 degrees quick Connect fittings and a Tank plug.

The AEM tank is too tall to fit ANYWHERE I have tried (and remain hidden...my requirement). I looked into the BurgerMotorSports Tank ~$200 Low Profile 2 Gallon, but it also sticks up too far and will not allow the floor panel to sit flat...So now I am reading up on the technical bulletins, and planning to use the Windshield reservoir(s) as someone also suggested in my other thread. Of course, it is not simple and has two tanks, and Headlight washer pumps, etc...But I will figure it out.

Also ordered an intake gasket set ( so I can remove to drill and tap fr nozzles), but that is delayed by the Jaguar dealer! And a 1/2 - 27 NPT Tap, and 21/64 Drill bit...

More to come and photos as I rip it apart...Holding off til after the weekend due to a Cars and Coffee

DC

 

I plan on installing a methanol/H2O system on mine as well. I will be using the main tank. I don't think the front tank will work well.

The front tank is fed from a motor in the rear tank that times out after 10 seconds of use and then wont function for (I think) another 10 minutes. So if you were in your desired boost range for a while and begin emptying the front tank you may run that rear pump over it's duty cycle and not refill the front tank. I'll try and dig up the document that details this.

 

Found it in the manual. Maybe try draining the front tank first at a reasonable rate and see if the refilling rate is acceptable?

WASHER FLUID LEVEL SENSORS
The washer fluid level sensors have a float with integral magnet. Each sensor has a contact, which is
normally open when the windshield washer reservoir is full. When the washer fluid level reduces to
approximately 1 liter, the magnetic float pivots down, and close the switch contacts. This closed
circuit is sensed by the CJB, which controls the rear washer fluid transfer pump relay located in the
EJB. The washer fluid transfer pump will transfer the washer fluid, until the front windshield washer
reservoir level sensor sends a signal to the CJB that the front reservoir is full.
The fluid transfer takes approximately 10 seconds, if the pump is still running after 15 seconds it will
be disabled for 10 minutes to protect the pump. This timer is reset following an ignition cycle.

 

Yep...Thanks. I pulled all of the manuals and read them. I am going to try the front first as it will keep everything close and clean on install. To get to that rear tank, you have to remove the whole rear end, then would have a line going all the way to the front. I guess I will be the guinea pig If it does not work well, I can always plug it and move it to the rear tank.

Thanks for posting the info.

DC

 

So...Made a little progress today. I had a Cars and Coffee in another city, so got a really late start, but got some items installed/modified, and so far no leaks from just sitting.....

I removed the front WS Reservoir, and drilled and threaded a hole near the bottom, and inserted the adapter from the AEM Tank, with some E6000 adhesive...So far so good.
Removed the alarm horn (likely won't put I back as I hat the sound anyway)...And installed the Pump in that cavity, face down. I was able to make a bracket from some flat steal I bought at Lowe's. That allowed me to use existing bolts for the pump install so no drilling. It gets the inlet within an inch or so of the bottom of the tank as suggested, so should be good. There was also a grommet there, so was able to drill out the tank mount and pass it through. Also tapped a wire and soldered onto the MAPT sensor, for my boost signal, and ran to the Horn cavity as well. I made a bracket to hold a solenoid I added to prevent siphoning, and keep it out of the way. Also made an aluminum L bracket that will hole the dual nozzle T to the intake.

I Will work on it some more tomorrow. Here are some pictures of today's progress...

DC

 

Update....Got all of the wiring harness done and the controller installed and tested it yesterday. I could not get a 0-5 volt signal from any of the sensors....I spent a ton of time testing and reviewing wiring diagrams...No Bueno! I called AEM today and chatted with tech and decided it would be OK to use the Throttle Position Sensor....Or as JAG calls it "Accelerator pedal position sensor". Found the wiring Diagram and the Orange and Yellow Wire, does give a 0-5 V +/- signal relative to throttle position! Tested it and got from 0.6 - 4.7....Close enough!

Jaguar Land Rover West Chester took my money on 9/22 and never shipped the gasket, so I just got a refund today and re-ordered the manifold gasket, so I can pull it off and drill the nozzle holes...Whew...a lot of work to hide everything!

Coming along though....

DC

 

Thanks for the pics and write up. Looking forward to the nozzle install!

 

Sure...You bet. If I can ever get anyone to send me a Manifold gasket! I need to pull the lid off to drill the holes etc., and not sure the gasket is re-usable...So want to have one on hand. So far, everything works and sprays on command (into a milk jug ) as it should.

DC

 

So still waiting on my Intake Manifold, but was able to find a good location and run the wing and install the remote LED indicator for the Methanol Controller. It notifies of errors with the system and comes on green and gets brighter as spraying starts and increases...

This spot looks OEM (I think), and easy to remove if ever needed and return to stock! Drilled out a small rubber grommet, and pressed it in, and then Hot Glue behind it.

DC

 

Okay...All finished this AM! And it works perfectly as designed.

I took the Intake Manifold Lid off and drilled the 2 - 21/64th holes using high strength bit and 3-in1 Oil for cutting/cooling (just a hand drill). Then tapped the holes with 1/8 NPT Tap. Then lightly sanded and cleaned up all the debris, before installing the nozzles and then the nozzle holders. I fashioned and mounted an aluminum L- bracket to the existing hole in the Intake cover, and mounted the T - dual nozzle fitting there with a large zip tie. Cut and ran the tubing and attached to outbound - side of the solenoid.

Took it for a ride, and at the appropriate throttle, the green (spray) light in the headliner flashes, and you can hear the pump kick on and spray. I also ran the Solenoid and Controller Arming wires through a toggle switch, so I can turn the whole thing off any time as I doubt I will use it every time I drive.

Some photos of the fun below. When I get time I may write up a DIY if any interest in it.

DC

 

Wow, you've taken my suggestion to use yellow text instead of red without me even having to ask! Much easier to read, thanks!

 

Just EFFIN amazing work! I'm impressed! Thanks for the write up.

 

Clean install DC, time for some Draggy tests 👍

 

Thanks...And my pleasure. Took me longer than expected, trying to figure out placements, and waiting on parts (because almost NO entity can be counted on anymore!)). But what I ended up with here (there are infinite ways to do this) is a system that works well, can be turned off with a switch to disable at any time, maintains normal Windshield/Headlight washer functionality, is completely stealth and factory looking, and can be removed with almost no trace it was ever there.

I will gather my pictures and thoughts and put together the info in a DIY PDF file for easy reference and use. Will try to capture items of interest I learned as well that may help anyone considering it.

On the Dragy...I agree...But I need to find some new rear tires first. I have no idea how this happened, but somehow my rear tires are totally worn out already??? It is an AWD (rear-biased), but every time I press the pedal, it slips and spins like crazy. It definitely has some torque and power...Never stops accelerating until I let off!

My goal was to get it close to my 997 TT (with $30K + in upgrades), and it feels pretty close actually now... Close enough anyway since it is prettier!

DIY Coming soon...

DC

 

Very rear biased ...

 

Thanks for taking the time to document and take pictures along the way.

Every time I see a pic with the lid off the upper intake I'm thinking about how to fit a TVS2650 in there.

 

Haha...Man....That would be a lot of work from what I understand... Apparently, there would be issues with size, but also with alignment to ports etc.... I think these motors are probably good to about 700 HP and then need to be built (rods, head bolts, etc.) or they will likely grenade.

Good luck with it if you try it...When I run out of stuff to do, I am thinking another 911 Turbo...991.2 (not loving the 992s....They are rockets from a dig.

DC

 

OK...I put a bunch of information, instructions, and guidance in my DIY template for ease. Feel free to use it in the spirit it was intended to help others who may want to try it out. I am not a Jaguar expert, nor profess to be. The information is what I was able to ascertain from hours online and emailing experts, and product companies, as well as some great members on the forum.

I tried to write this to be a good general information document as well as providing some instructions and illustrations to help. I am not interested in debating anything in the document... As I said it is to help others...If you can use something in it great! If you know a better way, knock yourself out. This is how I did it and it works.

I have stored it on my cloud drive and given access here so I can make changes if I need to.

Good luck to anyone interested, and I hope this helps.

DC

The Rock's Methanol/H2O Jaguar F-Type DIY

 

Most excellent sir, not sure if I am going to do this but you have certainly removed any doubt on what and how this mod can be done.
I will state again, you could definitely have second career making instructions for the many “requires some assembly “ companies.
Thanks
MM

 

Thanks. Haha...I love it! Maybe I will try that when I retire?? I know I won't be able to just sit still....soooo that may work!
Take care!
DC