XJ40 rebuild. (Green.)
#1
XJ40 rebuild. (Green.)
Okay people I have just aquired a vehicle, okay 2. the first job I have to address is the timberworl inside. I have managed to get some timber veneer .6mm thick. My question what glue do you use and how does it handle the heat I am in Rockhampton 4701 and it gets really hot inside cars here very quickly. Just about all of the veneer inside are cracked an separating from the base, and as you can see here it has completely left the metal parts in the consul.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Hi Clive,
You will find that some of the wood trim pieces, such as those in the doors and dash panel or fascia, have a plywood substrate. For those, a good wood glue such as Titebond II works well.
Other trim pieces, such as the "Ski Slope" gear shift lever surround and ash tray cover, have metal substrates. For those, I use a good quality contact cement, such as DAP Weldwood. Contact cement is applied in a thin coat on both the veneer and substrate, allowed to dry, then the two pieces are aligned and the veneer carefully rolled on to the substrate with a brayer or J-roller. You must position the pieces carefully before allowing any part of them to touch, because the contact cement bonds immediately on contact. The advantage of contact cement is that it remains somewhat flexible and allows for the different rates of thermal expansion and contraction between the wood veneer and metal substrate.
Somewhere in my photo albums at the link in my signature there are some photos of work to re-veneer the trim in one of my old XJ40s.
Cheers,
Don
You will find that some of the wood trim pieces, such as those in the doors and dash panel or fascia, have a plywood substrate. For those, a good wood glue such as Titebond II works well.
Other trim pieces, such as the "Ski Slope" gear shift lever surround and ash tray cover, have metal substrates. For those, I use a good quality contact cement, such as DAP Weldwood. Contact cement is applied in a thin coat on both the veneer and substrate, allowed to dry, then the two pieces are aligned and the veneer carefully rolled on to the substrate with a brayer or J-roller. You must position the pieces carefully before allowing any part of them to touch, because the contact cement bonds immediately on contact. The advantage of contact cement is that it remains somewhat flexible and allows for the different rates of thermal expansion and contraction between the wood veneer and metal substrate.
Somewhere in my photo albums at the link in my signature there are some photos of work to re-veneer the trim in one of my old XJ40s.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 01-22-2022 at 04:39 PM.
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Join Date: Feb 2021
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the front and rear screens are straight forward to remove/ I have done a lot of them, but the quarters are always a struggle I find.
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Join Date: Feb 2021
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Okay people I have just aquired a vehicle, okay 2. the first job I have to address is the timberworl inside. I have managed to get some timber veneer .6mm thick. My question what glue do you use and how does it handle the heat I am in Rockhampton 4701 and it gets really hot inside cars here very quickly. Just about all of the veneer inside are cracked an separating from the base, and as you can see here it has completely left the metal parts in the consul.
#13
I used a heat gun and a metal trim removal tool.The plastic trim tools will simply get too hot and bend. it did take a lot of heat. A hair dryer will not make enough heat. Remove the 2 screws from the trim, but never pry this area. I heated the inner part of the trim from the outside, (in my case it was the black area.) following the gutter just gently prying, I saw a small amount of smoke on the inside and found that the trim was slowly coming out. Believe me it is too hot to hold with an unprotected hand. Being even more gentle I did the same thing to get the glass out, at no time do you use force as it may come out, but you will damge it very easily. Be patient or this can go pear shaped pretty fast.
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Thanks for the info. very useful to know.
I am surprised it didn’t damaged the inner trim on any way. As I noticed you had left it in.
I assume you are going to paint the car, so any paint damage will not matter? But potentially could that amount of heat blister/ damage the paint near trim? If it was done on a car with nice paint for example?
I am surprised it didn’t damaged the inner trim on any way. As I noticed you had left it in.
I assume you are going to paint the car, so any paint damage will not matter? But potentially could that amount of heat blister/ damage the paint near trim? If it was done on a car with nice paint for example?
#15
Thanks for the info. very useful to know.
I am surprised it didn’t damaged the inner trim on any way. As I noticed you had left it in.
I assume you are going to paint the car, so any paint damage will not matter? But potentially could that amount of heat blister/ damage the paint near trim? If it was done on a car with nice paint for example?
I am surprised it didn’t damaged the inner trim on any way. As I noticed you had left it in.
I assume you are going to paint the car, so any paint damage will not matter? But potentially could that amount of heat blister/ damage the paint near trim? If it was done on a car with nice paint for example?
I think because I did everything from the outside, the inside trim was not touching the glass, so I figured there was no need to disturb it. I will be recovering the head lining so I may as well take it all out of the back window, and I will see what condition the sunroof is in when it all comes out. The thing I also accidently found that because I never put heat on the cars paint itself (the glass wore most of the heat.) the paint did not suffer any damage at all from either car.
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