Anyone ever swapped the motor mounts on a x351 5.0? I replaced mine in both my Benzes and what a difference. Anything more than a disconnected steering rack needed? OEM the only option or has someone found the OEM supplier like MB/Corteco?

 

I had replaced the mounts on my old X350 once or twice so I figured I would be able to on the X351 as well. The procedure is basically the same, but it turned out that the X351 was a bit more cramped and once I crawled under there, I really didn't feel like going through it so I took the mounts I had ordered to a local shop. I used Hamburg Tech C2D 2745 replacements. That was just over 2 years and 6k miles ago, no problems yet.

 

I had them replaced on my wife's 2012 at the dealership that was having a great special at the time.
They let me bring my parts (they were genuine JLR that I bought on-line), but it must not be so easy because the mechanic damaged an AC line that ran near the driver side mount. They ended-up having to replace that AC line & give us a loaned F-Pace for a couple of days.
Although I also had the oil changed & coolant flushed & changed, I think they may have actually lost money on that unfortunately.
I didn't notice any difference in ride afterwards.
I did replace the transmission mount myself, it was pretty easy to do that. No difference noticed in that too.

 

How much did that cost you if you dont mind me asking? I have a 2012 xf and been wanting to change my Mounts but every time I take my car to the dealership, inspection states in great conditions so I just wanna do it for the sake of not knowing when they were ever replaced before or if they are stock mounts lmao.

 

What I paid a few years ago won't do you any good, since I used a very generous coupon/discount at the time, and it was here in Florida 2 or 3 years ago.
The total bill was $1,147 including oil & coolant services, but I did bring my own motor mounts.

Really, if you don't see your engine moving oddly or twisting when you accelerate it, your mounts are probably okay.

 

For what its worth, I paid $210 for the motor mounts I referenced above, and $425 for the installation. This was back in October 2020.

 

Yes if changing the motor mounts really consider doing the transmission mount as well. The bonus is the transmission mount is simple to replace compared to the motor mounts.
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Exactly. Transmission mount is a piece of cake compared.

 

Question
What are the symptoms of bad motor mounts? Or gear box mount? And.…. Even the support for the mounts? As I seen…. V type of cradle for the mount?
Why am I asking? Start and stop.…. Creates a rough left wright movement, 1..2..3 metal noises that resonate thru the cars body. The noise is just before stop and just before start(when the starter engages, it's ok) and when the engine ignites…. One or two or three metal cluncs, short. After that all good, iddle good, acceleration good, just some vibrations on changing gears, but not too bad. No other noises, no other cluncs.…. Nothing.
Could be some really bad mounts? Without any liquid? Did someone had some totally spent mounts that act like that?
In park…. Eny rpm s, short…. Long….. No noise no shake, nothing. Could they be so spent that are metal on metal somehow or some loose bolt? That react to the most movement when start and stop?
Thank you

 

In addition…..
When going over creases in the tarmac…. And the car jumps... It feels like something big is loose, for a second. With one time noise, kind of like when it shakes at start and stops. Mounts? V cradle? Gearbox mount? Ideas?

Sway bar bushings are new, no noise from over there, when the old ones wore not changed, same creases on the tarmac made noise on the bushings and the clunk… that I am talking about.

 

You can do a couple of things?

Open the hood and start the engine and put the car in gear with your foot on the brake. Then apply the gas a bit and watch the engine thru the crack between the open hood and the dashboard. The engine will move some but it should not raise up any.

The mounts are fluid filled and you sometimes can see fluid stains on the engine mounts. The engine mounts are visible (somewhat!) from under the car with the belly pans removed.

One long shot? You did not tell us what engine you have but is it possible that with all the starting and stopping of the engine you may be hearing the SC snout clunk?
If you removed the SC belt (The car will operate just fine without it) you can drive a bit and see if it sounds different.

I will say after driving without the SC connected you will have a great appreciation for how much power it adds to the engine!
Of course if I am wrong and no SC disregard the above.
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thanks for the answer
x351 3.0 diesel v6

now…. What is sc belt please?
And it's not just the clunk.… it's a 1 or 2 or 3 moves shake from the engine, that it's felt through the chasys. At start specially. For example, last stop was without any shake or clunk. But starts are always with clunkand shake.
Either the mounts are loose or bad, or something is not tighten ok. I don't think its from the internals of the engine.… because I repeat, idle…. Any rpm, acceleration any rpm and speed….. Even in strong full kick down and downshift…. No noise like that whatsoever. So…. 2 mounts angine one gearbox, 2 v cradles for the engine mounts….. And what else? What could be loose or bad?… to make a metal noise every start?
O have the car for about 7000km…. Did 2 oil changes, checked the oil filter myself for sparkles in the oil filter, all clean.

 

Oops I was wrong about your engine? Sorry! But it does show the problems we have if you don't provide all the information? Like where your at and obviously what engine your car has.
Just some background? The US did not get any Diesels so we are weak on their repairs. As you found out above!

But I do recommend going to the UK forum as they are VERY experienced with Diesels.
UK Jaguar Forum
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Danu99
Just a thought: You might have leaking fuel injector(s). When your engine stop all injectors will close and stop injecting fuel. If one or some are leaking, the fuel rail pressure will push fuel to the cylinder(s) past leaking injector. When you start the engine again one (or some) cylinder have well more fuel than needed and it either greate BIG bang or no bang at all by overfuelling. Both will cause engine making sudden move because one (or some) cylinder are not in same power curve for smooth running.

 

Thank you for the answer
I know about the possibility. You mentioned it before. It will be checked. I am waiting for the schedule with the shop for all24 rochers, chains and tensioners, high pressure fuel pump belt and tensioner, incandescent plugs and….. Of course….. Injectors. But I want to resolve all that there is to do this visit to the service. I just want the car done and ready for vacation. This month. So….. In order to check personally at the shop and follow every possible problem…. , I am exploring the possibilities. All of the them. Don't trust the mechanics to be correct and fair. I have history with mechanics and shops. I want to ask…. Verify….. Myself. In the shop. Maybe in 🇬🇧 or somewhere else it s not like this.…., but I have really bad experience with shops and mechanics. So….. That's why I hunt for all possible reasons to the problem

 

I imagine (?) that having those back in tip top condition reduces the chances for creaks and rattles also, especially if front shocks are also replaced.

 

Guys….. i did the test…. Engine on, drive, foot on the brake and press acceleration.
I had someone in front of the care. Driver side(euro spec) lifts under acceleration. Centimeters. And…. My opinion.… if I drive over speed bumps at more then 20-25 kph, stopengine is also rocky. So….. Driver side lifts.
Next? )

 

Hello guys
So…. Regarding my previous post…. The mounts are bad? Or only the driver side?

And…. Could it be the propshaft? Generating vibrations?

How could I check?
Just changed the motor mounts to another car(W211) and in that case, stationary in drive I had the carvibrating, and under braking close to stop. Under acceleration, it got better to 0 vibrations. Jag is kind of the opposite. In drive stationary and when braking no problem, in constant speed no problem but under accelerations different stages of vibrations, different intensityes. Execto1st gear, accelerating from 0. So I remembered about I discussion I had some time ago about prop shaft generating vibrations under accelerations. Opinions?

 

It's all a matter of degree? Does not sound like your getting much engine movement but unless you can compare it to another XJ it will be hard to say?
Have you got under the car and inspected them yet? Possible fluid stains as they are fluid filled might give you a clue?
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No fluid stains. No knocks. Just variable degrees of vibrations.…. . That are not horrible…. But kind of annoying, different intensities, that drop to 0 on eny gear change. Under engine brake and when coasting…. No vibrations