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I've been hunting for this for a year now. Drivers floor floods every time it rains. Soaks the transmission tunnel foam sound deadener near the floor under the center console, then the floor. A/C drain tube is good. Found a factory hole today with water witness marks, just above the the dash bracket bolt. Definitely the guilty party. Where does the hole go, and how does the water get behind it?
there's obviously another layer of sheet metal behind the hole, so yet another body seam filling up with water from unknown ingress. No factory attempt to rubber plug the hole, unless the new for 93 body with "X percent" fewer body panels was still a mystery to assembly line welders. Anybody here know if the dash bolt pokes through the floor into the transmission tunnel or dead ends inside the floorpan?
Does anybody have street side photos of the firewall and transmission tunnel with engine/trans removed? I have yet to see a stripped 93-94 shell and mine ain't coming apart before the rains start big time in a week or two.
I could image the firewall or a-pillar is rusted through, on the late models this is a common issue. Did you check the firewall seam from within the engine bay?
Seeing as I've had the windshield replaced, removed the fenders, patched a rust hole on the RH side that cured the passenger side leak, garden hosed the cowl repeatedly and nothing has revealed the ingress point that spews forth internally from the above locations, I was resigning myself to just routing the leak water through holes in the floorboard, very very undignified failure. This morning yet another forum search revealed the Mad French Engineer's April 2020 discovery of the plastic wiper motor mount in his 93. And the birds didst sing and the sun shoneth down from on high. So, let's go further down the rabbit hole and see the root of the issue.
Removing the plastic wiper motor housing from the firewall is extremely slow and painful. The 3 zip ties for the wiring harness underneath must be snipped, I had to use an exacto knife. The foam seal is petrified to the firewall. The plastic housing is flimsy and flexes a scary amount. Go slowly and gently, took me over 2 hours to get it out intact.
3 slide clips like front seat floor modules and cast on zip tie slots. Heavy wiper motor on top outboard corner of flexy plastic housing.
Bottom with drain is top of photo. Notice the foam seal bottom corner, under the motor, over the heater core inlet.
Witness marks showing water leak drenching the heater core foam "seal" right over drivers throttle foot.
The foam seal DBC2932 is 1/4 inch thick and just over 1/2 inch wide. It could and should be 1" wide and notably thicker.
Notice the wall thickness of the plastic housing above
Weight of the wiper motor has warped the plastic flange corner open farther than the thickness of the gasket.
Gasket needs to be at least 3/8" or thicker, and should be closed cell foam that won't soak up water.
Seems to me the bad corner needs metal reinforcement to keep it flush to the firewall. I think using plastic is a design failure that never had a chance of staying sealed. This part needs to be a steel stamping or aluminum casting, NVH be damned. So now I gotta scratch my head on how to reseal this thing properly, as well as the stupid foam heater core plug. What a guaranteed failure this was, straight from the factory. But at least I may survive the pending rainy season now. Shout out to Ju44 for this discovery. Stay dry out there, ya'll!
And I've got the Jag out in the rain. And I washed it in the rain, (mainly to get the forest fire ash off it). And I let the garden hose run directly into the uncovered cowl from the windshield. With a magnetic flashlight illuminating the bottom of the wiper mount plastic housing. And I see no water escaping onto the heater core foam "seal". Could it be? No more driver floorboard water leak? And why did it take from my last post until today to get it done?
Let's get right to the punchline. I couldn't find DBC2932, the factory seal, anywhere. So six different rolls of weather strip tape later, mostly from Amazon, I finally found a size and material that fits and can be installed. The winner turns out to be 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide closed cell rubber foam. Here's a link to save you days/weeks of my trial and error.
I initially thought 3/8 thick was right but it cannot be installed since you can't reach the lower flange to crush it down far enough to engage the mounting studs with the slide clamps.
There's very little room between the valve cover and the fire wall and it's a bitch getting the wiper assembly in and out of the firewall, and long skinny fingers just barely fit to slide the clips over the mounting studs. As it was, the 1/4 thick was almost too dense and I had to improvise by wedging the valve spring compressor tool between the throttle bracket and the lower corner of the plastic flange and delicately screw it out to compress the flange against the firewall and tap the clip with a long screwdriver and WD40 to get the damn thing to click closed. Big flat blade screwdriver levered against the valve cover to compress the inboard flange enough to tap the clip closed from the pass side. No way to compress the center except via 1 finger, got lucky with enough WD40 and contortionist yoga position over the engine to get it clicked by fingertip and checked via mirror on a stick. Epic PITA.
Other notes. The bottom flange needs 1" wide tape (I used 2 strips of 1/2") and cut the stud holes with sharp exacto blades. Sides are fine with 1/2". Top doesn't matter cuz the water doesn't get that high.
Now that I've got 10's and 10's of hours into this diagnosis and repair, a light comes on inside my brain and says "stupid, you shoulda used windshield tape for a much easier install and more permanent repair. (palm slap to the forehead...) Then the other half of my brain pipes up with "at least the disassembly will be easier when the wiper motor or linkage fails next..."