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Coolant Leak on 2016 Jaguar XJ L Portfolio 3.0L AWD
A couple of days ago, I was heading to a car meet up, and I brought my Jaguar to the meet, since I haven't driven it in a while. As I was merging onto the highway to go to the meet, I got a notification on my dash, saying my coolant was low. I slowed down and pulled over to the side of the road, and to my complete disbelief, the engine was smoking pretty badly, but the engine temp was still normal. I had one of my friends go out and get distilled water, to locate where it was leaking from. It was gushing right below the car, near the transmission. The car was off, so someone said it was likely a busted pipe.
Snooping around the forums about different coolant types, I noticed that someone has stated that the orange coolant is to go for, but would need to change out regularly. How often are the coolant change intervals, and what's an effective way to remove all the existing coolant/distilled water out of the car?
Dschavez1020, how your car failed is not uncommon. Sounds like one of the plastic pipes suffered a catastrophic fail due to brittle fracture/heat stress cracking. The plastic gets brittle after being heated and cooled over and over. That is how my car failed when it blew the coolant system. As for the water pouring out near the tranny, that is going ot happen regardless of where the leak is from. The tray under the car catches everything and directs it out in that area unless you have the nose of the car pointed down hill.
As for draining the coolant system and getting everything out, it is going to be a matter if filing and draining a few times. I would say to get around 4-6 gallons of distilled water and then you are going to drain what you can, make your repairs, fill with distilled, run the car for a few minutes, drain, refill with distilled, run again, drain, fill drain a third time if you think it is needed, then fill with what coolant you want to use. By this point, what is left is so thinned, it won't be a problem.
Dschavez1020, how your car failed is not uncommon. Sounds like one of the plastic pipes suffered a catastrophic fail due to brittle fracture/heat stress cracking. The plastic gets brittle after being heated and cooled over and over. That is how my car failed when it blew the coolant system. As for the water pouring out near the tranny, that is going ot happen regardless of where the leak is from. The tray under the car catches everything and directs it out in that area unless you have the nose of the car pointed down hill.
As for draining the coolant system and getting everything out, it is going to be a matter if filing and draining a few times. I would say to get around 4-6 gallons of distilled water and then you are going to drain what you can, make your repairs, fill with distilled, run the car for a few minutes, drain, refill with distilled, run again, drain, fill drain a third time if you think it is needed, then fill with what coolant you want to use. By this point, what is left is so thinned, it won't be a problem.
Does it have to be the specific OAT Orange coolant? I'm looking on RockAuto for different types of coolant, and there's so many different colors.
It's just plain ol' Dex-Cool. Get it anywhere and just shop by price. It's very common.
I do like to use 100% coolant and dilute it down with distilled water. No point in paying high prices for the pre-diluted stuff!
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The most common cooling system failure points are the water outlet pipes at the front of the engine, and the heater pipe between the cylinder heads at the back of the engine.
Here are the aftermarket aluminium water outlet pipes fitted to an AJ126:
The most common cooling system failure points are the water outlet pipes at the front of the engine, and the heater pipe between the cylinder heads at the back of the engine.
Here are the aftermarket aluminium water outlet pipes fitted to an AJ126:
I was wondering if they made aftermarket piping for that exact reason. Thank you! If you can link me as to where I can find them, that'd be fantastic.
In the future, I plan on traveling out of town to get a diagnosis from Jaguar themselves. Would they raise a fuss about the aftermarket piping?
Edit: I do not have a warranty on file for my car.
Last edited by DChavez1020; 05-05-2024 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: Adding more details
The most common cooling system failure points are the water outlet pipes at the front of the engine, and the heater pipe between the cylinder heads at the back of the engine.
Here are the aftermarket aluminium water outlet pipes fitted to an AJ126:
You mentioned the heater pipe at the back of the engine. That's where it's leaking. There is not a lot of room back there. Do you know of a way to get easy access back there for replacement?
With the V-6 several guys have replaced the rear water manifold without removing the SC. So it is possible but it is hard to do.
What I recommend is to get your parts together as NBCat posted above and do it all done at once.
Plan to remove the SC and replace all the stuff you want with Aluminum.
Right now we have the following available in Aluminum.
2 front cooling pipes as posted above.
The rear water manifold. The 6 cylinder guys have two choices here? Just released is a one piece casting as compared to the two piece originally released in Al.
This is the two piece version. Two Part Rear Water Manifold
Here is the one piece version but do note this is new and somewhat unknown at this point? Should be fine but we have had several threads on the metal versions having casting flash and also tapered/restricted passages. One Piece Rear Water Manifold
The thermostat Housing. Do note that the 6 cylinder cars can come with a temperature sensor or without. Both versions are available. Al. Thermostat Housing
The transfer tube between the water pump and oil cooler brick. This is included in NBCat's link along with the two front pipes.
Up to you how far you want to go and I will add one more item that is usually needed?
The front snout is famous for clunking and you can replace the factory spring loaded coupler with an aftermarket solid coupler if desired. Or use the factory spring version.
Again some questions about the solid coupler and a few guys have changed them back to the factory spring versions because of noise. But others have had no problems and have run them for thousands of miles.
Finally don't forget to change the SC oil whether you remove the SC or not. If you don't remove it it will take some time and a syringe to get the old stinky oil out. It WILL be nasty for sure! Just use the standard AC/Delco super charger oil as it's everywhere and fairly cheap.
I did not see it but can you DIY all this? We have a lot of threads/videos showing the repairs and it's not too difficult but again it depends on your skill level?
I kind of shuddered when you mentioned the dealer? Expensive and hard to say what their opinion is of after market parts but I doubt it's positive!
So call and ask before taking all your nice new Aluminum stuff down to the dealer.
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With the V-6 several guys have replaced the rear water manifold without removing the SC. So it is possible but it is hard to do.
What I recommend is to get your parts together as NBCat posted above and do it all done at once.
Plan to remove the SC and replace all the stuff you want with Aluminum.
Right now we have the following available in Aluminum.
2 front cooling pipes as posted above.
The rear water manifold. The 6 cylinder guys have two choices here? Just released is a one piece casting as compared to the two piece originally released in Al.
This is the two piece version. Two Part Rear Water Manifold
Here is the one piece version but do note this is new and somewhat unknown at this point? Should be fine but we have had several threads on the metal versions having casting flash and also tapered/restricted passages. One Piece Rear Water Manifold
The thermostat Housing. Do note that the 6 cylinder cars can come with a temperature sensor or without. Both versions are available. Al. Thermostat Housing
The transfer tube between the water pump and oil cooler brick. This is included in NBCat's link along with the two front pipes.
Up to you how far you want to go and I will add one more item that is usually needed?
The front snout is famous for clunking and you can replace the factory spring loaded coupler with an aftermarket solid coupler if desired. Or use the factory spring version.
Again some questions about the solid coupler and a few guys have changed them back to the factory spring versions because of noise. But others have had no problems and have run them for thousands of miles.
Finally don't forget to change the SC oil whether you remove the SC or not. If you don't remove it it will take some time and a syringe to get the old stinky oil out. It WILL be nasty for sure! Just use the standard AC/Delco super charger oil as it's everywhere and fairly cheap.
I did not see it but can you DIY all this? We have a lot of threads/videos showing the repairs and it's not too difficult but again it depends on your skill level?
I kind of shuddered when you mentioned the dealer? Expensive and hard to say what their opinion is of after market parts but I doubt it's positive!
So call and ask before taking all your nice new Aluminum stuff down to the dealer.
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This will be the first time working with forced induction. The only thing I've done to my car, was replace the tie rod, since it snapped in half. I'll follow the video tutorials once I get the parts in, and I'll see if I can use someone's garage, that way I have everything sorted out and the space to do the work in. Do you know, by chance, if this will get me access to the Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor? I ran a scan tool on my car, and it came up with P0089.
+1 on doing the work yourself, or having a local Jaguar specialist do the work for you. I doubt most Jaguar main dealers are willing to install aftermarket parts due to warranty issues if a part fails.
The fuel rail pressure sensor is at the back of the fuel rail on Bank 1.
I find removing the wipers and cowl provides more room to access the back of the engine.
Where is Bank 1 located? On the manual that I bought from the forums, it's showing the sensor on the driver side of the car, in the middle of the engine bay.
Bank 1 is on the RH side of the engine when viewed from the driving position. The last time I looked at the fuel pressure sensor, it was on the end of the Bank 1 fuel rail with a yellow harness plug.
From the famous JPART version of JEPC here is the diagram.
Part number #AJ813066 for item #14 and surprisingly I find it on Rock Auto in an aftermarket version if you want? About $50. The factory part is about $150! Fuel Pressure Sensor
To find it follow Don's instructions above and make sure the plug matches what I posted if you plan to use the after market part. As you know all Jaguar parts are selected by the last 6 digits of your VIN (Which you did not provide?).
From the famous JPART version of JEPC here is the diagram.
Part number #AJ813066 for item #14 and surprisingly I find it on Rock Auto in an aftermarket version if you want? About $50. The factory part is about $150! Fuel Pressure Sensor
To find it follow Don's instructions above and make sure the plug matches what I posted if you plan to use the after market part. As you know all Jaguar parts are selected by the last 6 digits of your VIN (Which you did not provide?).
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V92344 is the last 6 of the VIN. I looked on RockAuto and didn't see it anywhere for my specific car. I'm still working on trying to get all the piping and other parts I need to do the work. I'm going to take a full weekend to get it done.
I do not see Don's instructions on how to replace the rail pressure sensor.
Last edited by DChavez1020; 05-07-2024 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: Link was already provided. Do not see Don's Instructions on how to access FRP Sensor
05-04-2024, 09:20 AM
Coolant Leak on 2016 Jaguar XJ L Portfolio 3.0L AWD
