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Hello all,
I am the new owner of a 1967 beautiful Jaguar E Type 4.2. The car sat covered since 1980 until last week. The key is missing and I will in the process of making it functional again, any advice?
Nice looking primrose coupe.
Was the car properly mothballed? Most cars are parked because something needed to be fixed. Do you know what that was?
In any case, what I would do is listed below. I'm sure you will get further recommendations from the forum.
1) Drain the fuel tank
2) Check for rust/guck in the fuel tank
3) If you find rust/gunk remove the tank and have it cleaned/ or replaced depending on condition.
4) Flush the fuel lines
5) Flush the brake Lines
6) Flush the cooling system
7) Change the engine oil and filter
8) Change the gearbox oil.
9) Drain/replace the carb oil.
10) Replace the battery.
11) Remove the spark plugs.
12) Put about a table spoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder.
13) Wait a few days.
14) Turn the engine by hand.
15) If it does not turn, cry a little then add some penetrating fluid to the cylinders
16) Let it sit for a couple days then try turning it by hand again.
That should get you started. Depending on what you discover doing the above, your next steps will vary,
Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your new E-Type. It looks good for a car that has been stored for 44 years. What OCDHerb suggested is a very good starting point. I would add that if this is a running car, or you get it running, flush the brakes, inspect and most likely change the generator/alternator belt, and don't be tempted to drive it any more than a block away from home on the present tires. Once you replace the battery, before you turn the key, it would be a good idea to inspect the wiring to make sure there are no loose or questionable wires.
Don't be afraid to ask questions when you are not sure of something. There is a lot of collective knowledge in the forum.
Enjoy your Jag.
Bill.
1.When you do the fuel tank, if this car has the little 'sock' at the end of the fuel pickup tube, check its condition and perhaps replace.
2. Replace the tires. If these have wire wheels, check into wire wheel rim bands. This is just one vendor and for 15s
Thanks everyone you guys rock, the information provided is amazing. I am excited and at the same time a bit nervous, there is a lot of steps to take, I need to be patient and work little by little. I will be posting photos of my progress. Thanks again
On the subject of tires, they definitely need to be replaced. The rubber degrades with age, so really they need to be replaced every 5 or so years, regardless of how much tread is left. Having said that, if they're holding air they can wait until the car is running. You never know how long these things take and there's no need to reset the five year clock prematurely.
Update from the new guy.
Today I cleaned the engine and the gas tank ( see photos and video attached I also put the Mystery oil into the timing chain and on the spark plug openings, purchased a new ignition switch and key and replace the battery. Tomorrow we will try to turn the engine by hand.
yes there was a rock inside the tank 🤔 The gas tank Inside the tank Inside the tank
As for tires, you will get many replies. Many like to stay with the 185/15s. I liked the white wall tires that were on my 69 S2 and so I moved to a radial 205/75/15, though a 205/70 15 is also possible. Tires depend on the CURRENT wire wheels that are on the car. If you go for new tires, not just any tire shop can mount and balance them. The local major tire stores don't want to put an E on a lift. Unless I can find a local place that will, I'm going to have to take each wheel off myself, take it to have the tire put on and then bring it back, put it on and take the next .
Thanks all for the great information and tips, I have t been able to turn the engine yet, but I am planing on doing it tomorrow, I will keep you all posted, I ordered the new oil and air filter.
Hi all
super excited to share that I was able to manually turn the engine. I will be changing the oil filter flushing the gas lines. Anything else I should do before starting the car up?
I can't find out why the car was park the original owner passed away and his daughter life in another state and didn't know anything about the reason why the car was parked. I hope it was for something easy to fix, but we will find out soon. I will take all the safety procedures and hopefully will be able to share them with you over the weekend.
Block the wheels in front and behind the tires. Do you know if the clutch works? Can you roll it freely with the car in neutral before starting and do the brakes hold? Have the car in a position, location,, that if it somehow gets away from you, nothing major gets damaged, or person injured. Outside and not in a garage. Coolant checked?
Congratulations on all you have done to rescue this E!!
Double ditto on all the safety stuff!!. Don't do this alone. Have a friend or two to help you look for leaks and hold the fire extinguisher. See if the parking brake works (but don't rely on it).
Did you ever find out why the car was parked? If so, fix it.
Starting:
1) Set the parking brake
2) Disengage the clutch
3) Locate the fire extinguisher
4) Make sure the carb floats are free (or you will have a flood).
5) Did you fill the carb oil?
6) Disconnect the coil wire.
7) Check the fuel pump by turning the key on but don't turn the engine. (It's a Lucas pump. So you should hear it clicking if it is working but the clicking should slow down and eventually stop)
8) Once the fuel pump stops clicking, push the ignition button for a couple seconds to see if the starter motor engages. If it spins without turning the engine or grinds, the solenoid is stuck. You can tap on it lightly with a ball peen hammer and try again. If that does not work you probably need to have the starter fixed.
9) If the starter works, turn the engine over for 10 to 15 seconds to see if there is any oil pressure.
10) If you have oil pressure, no leaks, and gas in the float bowls, reconnect the coil wire and give her a go.
11) If it fires keep your eyes and ears open. .
Great information; I will get the fire extinguisher, check the oil in the carburetors, and ask for help from friends. There are some steps I need to check before trying to start it. Thanks again. I will keep you posted
Oh, and every screw that looks like a Phillips screw actually requires a Posidrive screwdriver to remove it properly. Phillips screwdriver can strip or damage them. The Posidrive sets are available on Amazon and fit like a glove.
I'm about a month ahead of you on my '69 S2 which had run infrequently over the last 5 years, but was running, sorta, when I got it. To the lists already shared I'd add:
1. Check the master brake and master and slave clutch cylinders, the reservoirs for the fluid are old, brittle plastic; I had to replace the three on my car, plus the clutch slave cylinder.
2. My car had (5) 20+ year old 185R15 Vredestein tires on wire wheels with tubes. Resto shop strongly urged staying with 185/15 so I bought (5), new Michelin XVS 185HR-15 tires and tubes. Again, they didn't recommend trying to seal the rims.
3. The front-end suspension was sloppy with every bushing dry rotted, so I had them all replaced with rubber/neoprene, no polyurethane. Plus, new ball joints and shocks.
4. Electric cooling fans were shot, so I replaced both, plus the water pump, and drained and flushed cooling system.
5. Engine runs fine, but drained old fuel and replaced fuel filter.
It's due outta the shop next week so I'll be able to drive it and find out what else needs to be sorted. Good luck.
Congrats on a great looking find. The E Type, even more than most Jaguars, thrives on regular use . . . and abhors neglect!
I agree with all the advice in earlier replies . . . except in respect to flushing brake lines! Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so any that has sat in your E's steel brake lines for 44 years will have accumulated significant moisture content, How? Through the master cylinder breather. So what? Well . . . this moisture is literally sucked into the system, percolates through those steel brake lines, and relentlessly rusts them from inside out. My advice? Replace them all (not expensive) along with seal kits for master cylinder and all wheel cylinders.
Back in the day, we owned a Series1 4.2L for nearly 40 years. We loved it and got plenty of use . . . and maintenance. Years ago, I posted on this forum a tale of another E Type . . . the most dangerous E that I have ever had the misfortune to pilot . . . an immaculate Series2 that had been mothballed for (IIRC) about 30 years. On our second 100mph run, the brake pedal went straight to the floor . . . a pinhole had turned to a rear brake line blowout and our passage around a high speed bend was considerably faster than intended. I went home and ordered new brake lines for our own E immediately!
That said, and once well prepared, your Lazarus will serve you well . . . provided you use it and maintain it!
06-19-2024, 03:52 AM
Just the basics
I also put the Mystery oil into the timing chain and on the spark plug openings, purchased a new ignition switch and key and replace the battery. Tomorrow we will try to turn the engine by hand. 
