Good morning all.
This is my first post. I am seeking help with my XF 2.2 X250 2013 Sportbrake.
1. My EGR was leaking coolant in front of the metal gasket.
2. I have bought EGR unit, second hand, perfect condtion. Did inspect it with insepction camera etc. Spring is working fine etc.
3. Installed the unit and started the car, straigt away old EGR error disappeared. Left it idling for 10 minutes and idling was good. So I took it for a short drive around the block, car started jerkying so I turn around back to the workshop.
4. Read ECU for faults and it showed MAP sensor. I had noticed I never connected the back plug, the very far plug back of the EGR.
5. Reconnected the plug, error disappeared. Started the car, idled perfect, took it around the block , started coughing and stalled.
6. I tried starting it few times but no go and no errors.
7. Disconnected battery to see if that resets anything, but it lost the keys... I am new to jags and had no idea about losing keys after battery disconnection...
8. Had to tow the car and it electric parking brake was on , so it was a challenge... 50km later, landed at home waiting for Jag guy with SDD for the keys.
9. Keys done by updating the cluster first then maping key with KVM. Keys work, 350 euro + 150 euro recovery truck.
10. Now I am back to square 1 , where car turns over but won't start.

What I have tried so far:
1. Open newly fitted fuel filter where the little cap is, when I opened it I could hear suction noise. I topped up with diesel to the neck. Still no start.
2. Sprayed some easy start into air filter intake, still no go.

I have SDD and dongle on the way, but before I start with it, I would like to ask if anyone had similar problem before?
Do EGR needs adapting ? some people say yes, other say no.

I lost all my hope and feel like setting it on fire somewhere and go back to my old volvo (if I hadn't sold it).

Please advise, I am in kinda distress now and have no idea what to do.
Thank you

 

You are supposed to run "Powertrain – Air path set-up routine" see https://www.jaginfo.org/posts/2988276/
Don't forget you should have a 50A ( or more ) 13.4-13.8v power supply ( not a battery charger ) connected when the the car when using SDD ( disconnect it before starting the engine though! ), otherwise you'll probably end up creating more problem than you solve.

I don't know about the 2.2d but for the 3.0d when you change the fuel filter you're supposed to turn the ignition on without starting the car for 10 seconds ( the fuel pump in the tank runs for 10 seconds each time your switch the ignition on), then off fir I think It's 30 seconds, then repeat that another 4 times to prime the filter lines etc. Then when you start it leave it at idle for a full 2 minutes ( presumably to remove any remaining air bubbles without fuel starvation )

Do the rear wiper, and windscreen washers still work ok?

 

Hi Phil,
"Powertrain – Air path set-up routine" won't run for some reason (car not on or something), but now I am suspecting faulty EGR. Funny, I had leaking EGR cooler, now cooler is good, but have now I think faulty EGR... It might be stuck open.

Ordered blank plates just for testing, if blanking works then it is EGR itself...

I recently used 20 A charger and it worked fine (so far). Car won't start and I nearly killed battery twice, but did recon with CTK charger. Have to fully charge battery now before I try cranking it, so it will take some time and can't disconnect because I will lose keys again (this is madness).

The 2.2d I had to fill fuel filter to the neck, and car started first go. Read about it somewhere.

"Do the rear wiper, and windscreen washers still work ok?" - I don't know, did not test to be honest but will test tomorrow when I am installing EGR blanks and will revert back to you.

Thank you for your help!

 

Just checked rear wiper, does not work, and washers don't work either... Any solution for that?

 

The rear wiper/washer issue can't be fixed with SDD. You'll find the Jaguar dealers only fix is to replace the BCM (CJB).

But they can be reflashed with a BDM programmer. Xprog 5.84 ( or newer I guess ) is the confirmed working choice of BDM programmer that most people seem to use ( I read there are problems reading the dflash with xprog 5.55 so probably best avoid that version )
The following linked post will probably help with info for removing the BCM https://www.jaginfo.org/posts/2993968/ ( as far as I know it's always on the right hand side, so if you're car is left hand drive it'll be on the passenger side.)
There is info on where to connect the flash programmer in https://www.jaginfo.org/posts/2948062/ and the following post however do not flash the virgin file from there on a sportbrake or you'll still be left with no washer/rear wiper.
Dump the dflash using your BDM programmer, you will probably have to force the partition size to 32768 bytes. Then run that dflash file though this program https://github.com/tomvleeuwen/dflash_to_eeprom if that is successful remove the first half of that file ( i.e. it's 4096 bytes, keep the last 2048 bytes ). Examine the file in a hex editor, you should be able to see the part number of the CJB 2 times ( something like DX23-14B476-BG, and your VIN in that file. Then follow the bit in https://www.jaginfo.org/posts/2948062 to partition the dflash, and flash the eee ( emulated eeprom ) image back, don't write anything to dflash.
If that was all sucessfull it's probably just work without reprogramming in SDD, but as they have already reprogrammed it in SDD, you may have to program it again.

If the recovery fails, and if your BCM is revision -BG then you could take the file from https://www.jaginfo.org/posts/2986734/ use a hexeditor to change the VIN to match your car, flash using the BDM programmer, and then follow up by programming the BCM using SDD.

Keep in mind that if you try and use a battery charger instead of a PSU with SDD and it allows the voltage to drop ( most modern changers are smart, and stop charging when full / at intervals to test charge etc ), SDD may abort the procedure in the middle of the flash operation, and "brick" the module.

Good luck, and please let us know how it goes.

 

That is a lot of to take in and lots of reading. By reading your post I am shocked how many problems those cars have! I think i will fix it and sell asap, go back to XC70, never had a major issue, or never left me stranded. Anyways, I will follow your instructions, study it and do research before I touch anything.
I have just one hopefully final question: by fixing BCM properly, will this fix issues like battery disconnection / losing keys? Or the problem will still be there and I won't be able to disconnect / change my battery?
Thanks!
PS Yes, 20 Amp PSU constantly connected to the car, another inconvenience (bs)

 

Yes, the posts I linked / mentioned are probably sufficient to read on their own, obviously you can read the entire threads, but you will get a lot of opinions and discussions in the mix that way.

It should fix it back to how it was originally, so if you follow the ritual in posts like https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/shou.../#post-2925271 at least 99% of the time you should be ok with battery disconnects.

( don't disconnect it till you have your BDM programmer, and have the car positioned so you can get the door open to remove the BCM though, as most likely the fix they have done with SDD will leave it keys lost again no matter if you wait before disconnecting the battery or not - though it's still worth following that procedure, as KVM, and Door modules sometimes get messed up to and need some help from SDD )

Unfortunately garages don't ever seem to give time for the modules to shut down, every time someone else ( including the jaguar dealers! - who returned my car (which was working perfectly before) after timing belt service with no washer/rear wiper or central locking, blaming water ingress offering to fix it for me for >£3500 ) have disconnected my battery it has ended up messed up to some level.
( if you're lucky you just get central locking not working, and it just requires the imobilization procedure in SDD. )

 

Thank you so much for the information. I had no idea there is a magic sequence before removing battery... In all other cars I just removed it... You are correct with the KVM, sometimes it loses the key and then it works... First I will test egr and see why car is not starting, then I proceed with others.
"Check the vin number in the BCM ( aka CJB/FSJB ) with diagnostics ( e.g. SDD ), if it's scrambled, then the emulated eeprom on the BCM will need to be fixed with an external programmer ( or the BCM replaced )" - my SDD shows VIN normally and BCM is in green, yet no front jets or rear wiper.
Will keep you updated. Appreciate your help!

 

It doesn't always show scrambled VIN when the eee is corrupt. I had exactly the same with my sportbrake when I got it back from the dealers, VIN looked fine, but no rear wiper, and washers. I removed the BCM, dumped the dflash, reconstructed eeeprom from it, and reflashed the eee , and everything was fine after that ( didn't need SDD at all in my case ). I'm guessing the dealer had already tried the fix in SDD as they had it an extra day.

 

I can't believe they messed up your jag in the dealership.... This is madness and a lot of hassle man... Good to hear that after flashing it your wipers and everything are back working. Did you test disconnecting battery again?

 

Yes I tested it a few times, as took the BCM back out to add some conformal coating where I had removed it from the solder points, ( I used ), and to clean up the connections for the washer pump ( very slight corrosion from water ingress via the wires - check the pins on the blue connector while you have it out ) and add some Nyogel 760G to those pins.

 

This looks like a little project, like I used to do embedded work (arm+assembly). First will solve no runner condition, then next week need to order xprog and start doing proper research. What a pain. I like the car but don't know if it's worth my time and effort, we will see.

 

Hi Phil,
EGR was stuck in open position. I installed blanking plate and car started straight away. Will blank it properly tomorrow and map out EGR. Do you know if there are any bypass kits available for the cooler line and EGR inlet outlet?

Now, don't know why, I reconnected SDD (v164), did cluster update ? config, and rear wiper and front jets came back. However, I did test again by disconnecting the battery, keys lost start from zero, so you are correct BCM to be done.

 

Hi kult,
Sorry I've no idea about EGR removal kits. How do you map it out? ( I hear of remap services dismantling the PCM to reflash which sounds a fair bit of work. )
However don't you need the EGR functional in order to generate the correct temperature to regenerate the DPF? ( as I understand it they lean the mix with air depleted hot exhaust fumes by disabling the EGR cooler while enabling EGR to regen the DPF )

Wow that could be quite a discovery ( if it's not specific to the corruption on your car ), so maybe Jaguar have implemented some kind of fix in the instrument cluster software to work around the washer problem with the BCM, or perhaps the cluster stops sending washer/rear wiper button/switch info info on the canbus if it's programmed while the BCM is in a non working state ( which as far as I can gather is the done thing to get ignition when the BCM is broken, before then programming the BCM )

Probably still best to re-program the BCM via BDM, as we don't know what else not having working eeeprom breaks in subtle ways, and if you ever put the car in a garage and they disconnect it could leave in a tricky situation needing to get it towed home so you can fix it etc. ( Depends how amenable they are to letting you in the workshop to re-program it in your country )

 

Hi,
I just used blanks to blank out EGR. However, there are some EGR kits which do: bypass cooler, mimic EGR on the EGR electrical connector, block egr exhaust (blanks). Then you can remove entire egr with the pipe going around back of the engine. However, I just blanked it and will map out in the ECU with stage 1 chip (same price as mapping out EGR).
In theory , once EGR is blanked out, constantly closed, then exhaust fumes are hotter and in theory it is better for DPF (don't know how true this is). On a motorway EGR is always in closed position, like having plate installed / blanked out.

I have absolutely no idea, but after cluster reprogram things started to work HOWEVER just today, I disconnected battery for testing, no keys, did SDD same steps again, AND washers and rear wiper dead again. This is random...

I will still have to do BCM, because I want to be able to disconnect battery like in other cars..

I forgot to ask you about something. I read disconnecting battery routine, however, if BCM is fixed properly, do I still have to follow that procedure or I can disconnect any time without corrupting BCM again since it is fixed?

I am in Ireland. Thanks

 

I've no idea about in Ireland, but I think here in the England when you declare it's modified with a remap, it'd probably be cheaper to trade it for a 3.0d and insure that instead. ( Also if you don't tell them and ever get found out, your insurance price for many years to come, if you can even get insurance, will be astronomic )

Well it's difficult to tell the spin put on by remap salesmen from facts. But I thought the thing with recirculating exhaust gas was it is depleted of oxygen, and so not all diesel gets burn in the engine some of it reaches the DPF, and burns in there to increase temperature. ( I presume it can only burn in there with lack of oxygen due to catalytic reactions - but maybe I'm just misinformed. )

You asked me that in post #6 and in #7 I answered
"It should fix it back to how it was originally, so if you follow the ritual in posts like https://www.jaginfo.org/threads/shou.../#post-2925271 at least 99% of the time you should be ok with battery disconnects."

Personally I'd not risk it for sake of 20 mins, but maybe at a guess the BCM only gets corrupt eeeprom say 5% of the time if you don't bother. For example when my car went to the garage for alternator replacement, they let the battery go flat / disconnected without proper shutdown, and it "only" needed the central locking fixed with "security immobilization" no BDM reprogramming of the BCM that time around.

I must admit it does make you wonder if they deliberately leave the lights on so they can sell you a new battery when you've had it on charge all week, drive it in two miles, and the battery is flat by morning - especially when it recharges just fine when you take the original battery home and stick it on a ctek and also looks just file to my battery analyser.

 

3.0 would be 790 euro tax... too much for me

Your dpf explanation seems logical to me. The map salesman is my mate, won't even charge much, however, I might just blank EGR with 8mm hole in it and see how it goes. First test will be full blank, if no errors then leave it , if errors then 8mm hole. I will let you know if couple weeks when I fix BCM how I get on with EGR blank.

Sorry for making you repeat yourself, i missed that line!
"I must admit it does make you wonder if they deliberately leave the lights on so they can sell you a new battery when you've had it on charge all week, drive it in two miles, and the battery is flat by morning - especially when it recharges just fine when you take the original battery home and stick it on a ctek and also looks just file to my battery analyser." - this would be some scam if true...

Thank you for your help, will keep you updated on BCM and EGR, probably couple weeks or so.

 

Yeah, the battery back alarm sounder was failing badly ( just audible ) when I got it back too, so have to give them benefit of the doubt I suppose, as don't know if the main battery being discharged cause that to fail, or vice versa. A lot of people will have driven considerable mileage without the alternator, so in a lot of cases I suppose they may be helping prevent a failure very shortly down the line, but as luck would have it I was only a couple of miles from home when the not charging message appeared, so it went straight on charge when I got home till it was at full charge before my couple of mile drive to the garage, on a 3 year old exide battery, that started the car easily outside their workshop to pull it in, I have my suspicions though ;-)

 

Hi Phil,

Just letting you know. I installed brand new EGR today, car works no problem. Wipers and jets dead again, and BCM shows corrupted VIN , so you are 10000% right with your diagnosis.

Will work on BCM.

I have noticed, even before changing EGR, revs and speed needles are not steady, they float a bit... Strange. Anyways, BCM will be done, then SDD to program everything.

Will keep you updated.

 

Can you feel the speed change, or just the needle?
If the speed and revs are actually changing, did you do the air path setup?
When you have the battery disconnected, I believe you're supposed to start the car from cold and let it idle until it's up to full running temperature, then drive it at 30, 40, 50 keeping at each speed for a couple of mins to let it relearn it's adaptions for the engine. I guess it will learn with use, but the smooth tickover from cold all the way to running temp could take an awful long time to learn without that first step.

If it's just the needles, and the revs aren't changing ( check the revs in SDD I suppose ) then maybe you should check for excess ripple/AC leakage from the alternator as that may could affect the analog part of the gauges.