Which Clamp?
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Can't fault that.
The only "advantage" an Ideal/Jubilee pattern still has it that it takes so very FEW as 'onboard' spares - or buy anywhere - to cover a "get you home" emergency.
Then again, many such needs usta bee covered with slip-joint pliers applied to a length of soft Iron wire..
The only "advantage" an Ideal/Jubilee pattern still has it that it takes so very FEW as 'onboard' spares - or buy anywhere - to cover a "get you home" emergency.
Then again, many such needs usta bee covered with slip-joint pliers applied to a length of soft Iron wire..
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04Xjrsteve (07-08-2024)
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The reason the OEM clamps were used is that they are cheaper than the standard Ideal-style, and could be applied quickly (using the magic factory tool) at the factory. In the age of rampant cost cutting, saving 2 cents per clamp makes manufacturers go with "good enough". I've found that buying the kits with all the sizes of stainless ideal clamps works best for me, and comes in handy for all sorts of stuff (mower fuel filters, etc. etc.).
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04Xjrsteve (07-08-2024)
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04Xjrsteve (07-08-2024)
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The reason the OEM clamps were used is that they are cheaper than the standard Ideal-style, and could be applied quickly (using the magic factory tool) at the factory. In the age of rampant cost cutting, saving 2 cents per clamp makes manufacturers go with "good enough". I've found that buying the kits with all the sizes of stainless ideal clamps works best for me, and comes in handy for all sorts of stuff (mower fuel filters, etc. etc.).
I disagree that the rationale behind using spring clamps is cost cutting. The screw-type clamp can also be manufactured for a few cents, as the prices of the assortments show. Those screw hose clamps are incredibly useful for all types of applications, but I don't think they should replace the standard hose clips as supplied by Jaguar.
The advantages of the spring clip are that it will not slacken with time, it is perfectly circular, and it has a certain clamping force designed into it. It really is 'fit and forget'. As more and more car parts are manufactured in plastic, the circular shape and even clamping force become important. I cracked a plastic heater hose part because the previous owner had replaced the spring clamp with a worm-type, and I couldn't detect that the force was too great for the aged plastic part.
If there were faults in the spring clamps, the pre-production testing would have revealed it as an issue that had warranty implications. The cost savings of using a possibly slightly cheaper clamp style would soon be wiped out by a rash of recalls or warranty engine replacements.
When I replaced my supercharger and all the associated cooling hoses in 2021, I used the original spring clamps throughout. I have had no coolant loss or leaks since doing that work.
Even with needing a couple of inexpensive special tools, the fit-and-forget oem spring clamps are, I believe the best choice.
Pete M
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04Xjrsteve (Yesterday)
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Most spring clamps are also wider than their replacement worm drive clamps which is nice. In some areas it is way easier to get the special pliers in than a screwdriver or nutdriver or socket with ratchet. And worse yet is having a tough one to get to and just when you are not quite tight the worm strips and you have to start over
Last edited by scottjh9; Yesterday at 06:56 PM.
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04Xjrsteve (Yesterday)
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Pete M. I agree with your assessment. It is easier to use (avoid over-torque, snap on and off) the OEM spring clamps - I've seen overzealous DIY tighten the worm gear ones to the point of creating a leak where none was before. I dunno why, but I always seem to lose or misplace the OEM ones, and keep a ready supply of worm gear'd ones to fill in for them. Of course, I always find the OEM spring clip one after I am all done re-assembling
; and now I have a drawer full of OEM spring clamps to compliment my worm gear type
.
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