Been absent a while but have been tearing into the rear end of the car, have switched from a Dana to a Salisbury 4HU, does anyone have a pinion torque value for checking rotational resistance ?

I have the values from the workshop manual showing old bearings a 20 to 25 inch pounds or new bearings 30 to 40 inch pounds - but it isn't clear if this is complete diff or pinion only.

I was under the impression that the diff I have has been refurbed, it is certainly dry and carrying most of its paint, it is far too hard to turn I think but I want a more definitive test - such as how much torque to rotate the pinion on a fully assembled differential (no drive shafts, discs or brakes - bare diff)

 

Pinion only. You're measuring the drag of the bearings on the pinion shaft only.

 

Thought that was the case - typical and of no value in diagnosis only assembly - because if I'm stripping I'm rebuilding, I am trying tro assess condition without stripping or further dismantlng - so I need a value from a complete but bare salisbury as in complete with output shafts but nothing else but in good order.

I'm not prepared to DIY the rebuild so if needed it will be expensive, I am out of time and patience on this 'weekend' project ...

Going to go with no rebuild, although stubborn at first the average on the diff is 6.5NM - around 58 inch pounds - if good pinion is 30 to 40 inch pounds then I am going to call the overall assembly good at 58 my original Dana was less.

 

I just had my IRS rebuilt(at a great expense).

Considering the amount of work required to get the diff out of the cage, I cant imagine installing an unconfirmed “good” unit.

There must be a way to test the thing before you put it all back together. In the US/Canada, the Dana is a breeze to have rebuillt, no special bits required.

 

I have pretty much done everything, the subframe is powder coated, both hubs are done as are the dog bones (also powder coated) new bearings / shims / spacers etc everywhere, drive shafts done (powder coated and spicers installed - no more grease shields), new disc's, calipers rebuilt with stainless pistons and handbrake mech's fully restored - so an absolute ton of work - then I get to the diff - seals are dry but there seems to be no way to really check the diff without stripping it and that is a ton of work to not replace bearings.

I hear ya on the it's a lot of work because it really is not to mention a chunk of spending that is pretty eye watering if I do the diff too. I've already passed £1k .... the diff will add that and then some again. So I have been scouring for a set of tests that can be done without tearing down, end float seems fine, backlash is borderline non existent. I really need to see the back of the heavy work this year, the way health is going time is running out so I want the car back on its wheels this year even if I farm some of the work out.

Now I'm really undecided .... take a chance or spend another crazy amount that may not be really necessary for the sake of piece of mind.