Replacing fuel pump but from inside
#1
Replacing fuel pump but from inside
Hello guys my fuel pump unfortunately died after 4 years not bad for Delphi fuel pump but I will get denso this time . Anyway I don't want to pull the tank I want to pull the pump from inside the car now my question is can I cut that metal with cordless Dremel?? Or I will need other tools ? I'm not sure how thick is that metal and what cutter will cut properly
#2
Join Date: Feb 2013
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I think its about a 16 gauge, any carbide disc will cut it. But the thinner the disc the less friction and quicker the cut.
I use the EZ Change Out mandrel with the 1 1/2" disc (which get expensive but work great) on my Milwaukee. I do a lot of metal cutting with it on door frames about the same gauge.
I use the EZ Change Out mandrel with the 1 1/2" disc (which get expensive but work great) on my Milwaukee. I do a lot of metal cutting with it on door frames about the same gauge.
#3
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Silverjag0 (07-24-2024)
#4
I think its about a 16 gauge, any carbide disc will cut it. But the thinner the disc the less friction and quicker the cut.
I use the EZ Change Out mandrel with the 1 1/2" disc (which get expensive but work great) on my Milwaukee. I do a lot of metal cutting with it on door frames about the same gauge.
I use the EZ Change Out mandrel with the 1 1/2" disc (which get expensive but work great) on my Milwaukee. I do a lot of metal cutting with it on door frames about the same gauge.
#5
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#7
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So, the posted pic, is that yours or just one you borrowed to show your intentions? Because that one wholeheartedly appears to have been die ground, ..clean cuts. I don't see any warpage or fraying from the use of snips.
Your prowess to not permit you to go that route is saying your going to pull the tank into the boot?
Your prowess to not permit you to go that route is saying your going to pull the tank into the boot?
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#8
My experience is pulling the tank out the boot with the rear end out to sell from my parts car. Disconnecting the two fuel lines (one snap fit and one screw fit) was even a pain with the rear end out. Can't imagine how much of a pain with rear end in. Dropping rear end in not difficult or time consuming. Careful with the fuel lines. They are crazy expensive to replace.
#9
I used that photo in a Jag-Lovers forum post regarding "out the top" removal technique. I cut it out with abrasive wheels. No way would I remove the tank. I covered the top of tank to avoid sparks directly on the tank and hoses....It's discussed in the link.
2002 XJR no start - X300 - Jag-lovers Forums
2002 XJR no start - X300 - Jag-lovers Forums
Last edited by 64etype; 07-25-2024 at 06:36 PM.
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Silverjag0 (07-29-2024)
#11
#12
it’s a bandit’s answer! Good luck to the ‘access panel’ people, there’s the rear screen that cracks at light pressure, a brake light assembly that falls off just looking at it! Then the engineering integrity that’s compromised. I couldn’t do it, it’s just wrong.
there’s enough wiggle room to angle the tank forward being extra careful with the lines. If you know someone with thin arms just disconnect both. It’s an easy job, why complicate it?
#13
#14
If Jaguar/Ford had designed the fuel system such that pumps didn't fail every 40.000 miles I would absolutely agree with you. As it is, the next person who has to replace fuel pumps at the ridiculously low interval will marvel at the brilliant access panel.... especially if they're a geezer and it's 100 degrees in the garage. Having done the shelf removal once, it will be a doddle the next time.
#15
I don't totally agree with this. My car has over 106 000ml and presumably still original pumps. No noise whatsoever from the tank. I'm sure there were cost issue when engineers had to move separate tanks from the crash and rust area to more resiliant place in the both areas without re designin rear end completely again. Why it is not a plastic tank that I don't understand.
#16
Mine got changed at 77k, the primary worked fine but the secondary was seized when I got the car. Stupid not to do both with the tank out so they both got replaced.
#17
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#18
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Also, you can file the end just a bit to help wiggle/twist (blow out and repeat) it in a bit to get around the dirt and build up in the recess.
Last edited by Highhorse; 07-27-2024 at 10:17 AM.
#19
No other way than full throttle. EU gasoline is way more "better" than yours. It will go bad too but not that fast. I might jump the relay on in someday to test the pumps.
#20
Read before Cutting!
Randy, there is a very elegant solution that was posted on this forum maybe a decade ago. It involves a bit of handy work, but so simple it makes the job a breeze.
The disconnect tools are push fit, split rings in plastic, they disconnect air-con, fuel and air lines. They have a tapered fit to locate into the release ring in the tank connector.
The solution if arms cannot access these - is to make the same disconnect tool from plastic plumbing tubing and slot it so it fits around each fuel line. Pushing it up into the
tank connectors and pulling the lines free. By using the same tool to reinstall, use tape and bind well below the swage line on the fuel lines then shove it back in when the pumps are done.
Here's the post and thread with all the info......https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1860122
The tool is the 5/16", but this is the tool and the taper needed on the plumbing pipe.
Last edited by Sean B; 07-28-2024 at 08:07 AM.